rear brake disc upgrade
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rear brake disc upgrade
I know others have asked the question many times but I think this is something new...if the rear is upgraded from a 04 VP/DX to the Si discs does it use the same porportioning valve or is that required to be upgraded to the Si's. Since there is a difference in weights between frt/rr between the VP and the Si I would think you stay with the VP/DX valve. Right?? By the way those who go to the VP soon find there is no roll bar ft/rr and require an aftermarket set up. Although there are attachment points ft they are not in the rear...a real pain. Think about it when going to the VP since it would require upgrades, maybe the LX is a better way to go.
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no you would need to change the proportioning valve because the stock one is calibrated for a Disc/Drum setup while you want to go to an all around disk setup. you should basically just swap the combination valve from the si to your car.
Last edited by krayziebonet4l; Feb 19, 2005 at 07:52 PM.
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I have looked at the brake diagram of the Si and do not see anything described as a proportioning valve. Where the standard civic EX has this is a 4-way joint on th Si. The Si has anti-lock system as the EX but there is a difference at this 4-way joint/valve noted on the EX...not sure why. This item is at the front bulkhead where the rear brake lines connect and then go to the back for branching out to their respective sides. Any idea on a part # for this valve? Thanks
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bump it up for question.
if anyone can find the part # with the diagram from majestic or something pointing to the valve, that would be great.
thanks
if anyone can find the part # with the diagram from majestic or something pointing to the valve, that would be great.
thanks
4-Way Joint
The part is called a 4-way joint. It is Product ID 459533 on Majestic and Honda P/N 46470-S5T-E01 everywhere else.
Hondaluver, who claims to have done this conversion, says that your brakes will work fine with the original EM2 proportioning valve.
I will be doing this conversion with new Honda parts as soon as my backordered items come in and will keep you posted... I may even take pics and post a DIY
Hondaluver, who claims to have done this conversion, says that your brakes will work fine with the original EM2 proportioning valve.
I will be doing this conversion with new Honda parts as soon as my backordered items come in and will keep you posted... I may even take pics and post a DIY
Last edited by etdigitalis; Apr 15, 2005 at 02:39 PM.
The EX uses a proportioning valve, since ther rear drums do not require as much pressure to acutate them. Around 800 to a disk at 1200. The Si uses a joint which has not valves at all, it just mounts the same. The rear brake bias is controlled by the ABS modulator. So in the SI all the brakes get the same pressure, but if the rears begin to spin or lock, then the ABS system lowers the braking pressure to the rears.
Currently I have an EX with ABS, I have converted to the rears off an SI. I installed them and used the stock EX valve. The brakes did work, but in testing, the fronts would do almost all the braking and the skidds were coming from the front. Certainly not safe as the braking was controlled, with a front bias, but I felt that the rears were not doing that much with the lower pressure.
So I installed the SI joint and retested. With the ABS cumputer unplugged, the rear had a slight bias and would lock up before the front. Not too bad, but it did slide the rear end out a few times. But certianly not too jumpy. Then I plugged the ABS modulator back in and the braking space seemed close (I braked at cones, marked stopping with cones, just have a big empty parking lot) to optimum. This produced no rear lock up as the ABS took over and corrected the slippage.
Next I installed an SI modulator, it was supposedly calibrated to this setup and honestly I did not notice any difference, so I would say if you have EX with ABS, then swapping the joint will give your rear brakes more pressure, while the ABS will still control proportioning, though it will be in real time.
Currently I have an EX with ABS, I have converted to the rears off an SI. I installed them and used the stock EX valve. The brakes did work, but in testing, the fronts would do almost all the braking and the skidds were coming from the front. Certainly not safe as the braking was controlled, with a front bias, but I felt that the rears were not doing that much with the lower pressure.
So I installed the SI joint and retested. With the ABS cumputer unplugged, the rear had a slight bias and would lock up before the front. Not too bad, but it did slide the rear end out a few times. But certianly not too jumpy. Then I plugged the ABS modulator back in and the braking space seemed close (I braked at cones, marked stopping with cones, just have a big empty parking lot) to optimum. This produced no rear lock up as the ABS took over and corrected the slippage.
Next I installed an SI modulator, it was supposedly calibrated to this setup and honestly I did not notice any difference, so I would say if you have EX with ABS, then swapping the joint will give your rear brakes more pressure, while the ABS will still control proportioning, though it will be in real time.
And the master cylinder and brake booster are similar to the SI, so you should not need to change anything like that.
If you get brake lines after or during the swap, get them from an RSX or SI, they will mount perfectly.
The Acura EL is longer and its parking brake cables will mount better, especially on the drivers side. But you have to get them from a Canadian Dealer.
If you get brake lines after or during the swap, get them from an RSX or SI, they will mount perfectly.
The Acura EL is longer and its parking brake cables will mount better, especially on the drivers side. But you have to get them from a Canadian Dealer.
Now on a car WITHOUT ABS, you cannot remove the valve and add the joint. On severe braking, nothing will control the excess pressure to the rear and it will skid, causing a loss of control.
The only alternative would be to remove that stock valve and install two adjustable valves, one for left, one for right, then adjust them manually.
The only alternative would be to remove that stock valve and install two adjustable valves, one for left, one for right, then adjust them manually.
Originally Posted by rickinthescv
Currently I have an EX with ABS, I have converted to the rears off an SI. I installed them and used the stock EX valve. The brakes did work, but in testing, the fronts would do almost all the braking and the skidds were coming from the front. Certainly not safe as the braking was controlled, with a front bias, but I felt that the rears were not doing that much with the lower pressure.
So I installed the SI joint and retested. With the ABS cumputer unplugged, the rear had a slight bias and would lock up before the front. Not too bad, but it did slide the rear end out a few times. But certianly not too jumpy. Then I plugged the ABS modulator back in and the braking space seemed close (I braked at cones, marked stopping with cones, just have a big empty parking lot) to optimum. This produced no rear lock up as the ABS took over and corrected the slippage.
Next I installed an SI modulator, it was supposedly calibrated to this setup and honestly I did not notice any difference, so I would say if you have EX with ABS, then swapping the joint will give your rear brakes more pressure, while the ABS will still control proportioning, though it will be in real time.
So I installed the SI joint and retested. With the ABS cumputer unplugged, the rear had a slight bias and would lock up before the front. Not too bad, but it did slide the rear end out a few times. But certianly not too jumpy. Then I plugged the ABS modulator back in and the braking space seemed close (I braked at cones, marked stopping with cones, just have a big empty parking lot) to optimum. This produced no rear lock up as the ABS took over and corrected the slippage.
Next I installed an SI modulator, it was supposedly calibrated to this setup and honestly I did not notice any difference, so I would say if you have EX with ABS, then swapping the joint will give your rear brakes more pressure, while the ABS will still control proportioning, though it will be in real time.
very informative posts btw
Rick I remember in a post, a very long time ago, you mentioned the proportioning valve for the Acura EL, Is this still an option. My local Acura dealer is willing to order the part for me. I have also called Acura dealers in Canada and a few have offered to ship it out to me, If I pre pay for everything of course. Do you think this is a better setup than running the Si 'valve'? THanks.
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how much you think a used set of Sit rear disc would run at.. complete...
someone is selling at $700CAD (about $560US)
he has the 4bolt '02 SiR CAD(Si US) and hes going RSX 5bolt... so i will be getting the WHOLE rear disc part...
would this be a good price?
also would i need the front set also, coz i dont want to go half way and found out that i need more ****... but since hes going RSX 5bolt, i would basically need his WHOLE rear but nothing to do with the front...
btw, i have an '02 Si CAD(EX US).... disc/drum setup...
someone is selling at $700CAD (about $560US)
he has the 4bolt '02 SiR CAD(Si US) and hes going RSX 5bolt... so i will be getting the WHOLE rear disc part...
would this be a good price?
also would i need the front set also, coz i dont want to go half way and found out that i need more ****... but since hes going RSX 5bolt, i would basically need his WHOLE rear but nothing to do with the front...
btw, i have an '02 Si CAD(EX US).... disc/drum setup...
Last edited by 2K2SilverCivicSiR; Apr 16, 2005 at 10:55 PM.
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Originally Posted by DestnationUnkwn
Rick I remember in a post, a very long time ago, you mentioned the proportioning valve for the Acura EL, Is this still an option. My local Acura dealer is willing to order the part for me. I have also called Acura dealers in Canada and a few have offered to ship it out to me, If I pre pay for everything of course. Do you think this is a better setup than running the Si 'valve'? THanks.
makes me wonder if that valve actually makes a difference when you have ABS.
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