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There is a DIY for this and it was very helpful. One thing I can say to anyone who wants to try this be prepared to drill out the two screws holding the rotor on because there is no way you are getting them loose, even with a #3 driver. I even sprayed them with Liquid Wrench, WD-40, and nothing helped. They were just so tight the screw driver stripped them each time. I used a drill bit large enough to break loose the head of the screw (don't drill too deep!) and once the head broke off you can just pull off the rotor. You may want to invest in a rubber mallet to tap the rotor from behind to loosen that as well.

Also, when you put your new brake pads in you'll notice there is not enough space to install the caliper back on the rotor! You will have to use a C-clap or something to slowly push in the main part of the caliper to free up more room. This is where the large round cylinder/housing is, right in the middle of the caliper. At first, I thought I had the wrong set of pads because they were too thick! But after realizing I just had to push in on the large part it made perfect sence.

It took me hours to change the first side and only 15min to do the other side once I learned what to do. Now it seems easy!

This is one of those things you can do yourself, trust me. It's easy. Just take your time and be careful not to damage any of your new parts in the process.

 
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be prepared to drill out the two screws holding the rotor on because there is no way you are getting them loose, even with a #3 driver.

hahhahhah........I just did my brakes today also and had the sane problem. Only one of the screws gave me a problem though. A guy at the auto parts store said there is a specific tool for removing those two screws. He said it was a driver that you hit with a hammer. It acts sort of like an impact gun.

 
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wow, hours to change brake pads and rotors...that sucks

 
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do yourself a favor and buy an impact screw driver first next time

 
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Weird. I changed my rotors and pads last summer (I hate EBC Greenstuffs!) and I didn't have any problems getting the screw out. But then again I had a #3 screwdriver.

There's 2 ways to loosen the thing up. First way is to take the screwdriver and put it in the head and tap it with a mallet/hammer. This will loosen up all the rust around it. The second way is to take a ball peen hammer and put the ball end on the screw. Take another hammer and hit the face of the ball peen hammer. That'll knock it loose too. I tried both methods and they work great.

I've got new pads sitting on my desk. Some Hawk HPS that need to go on sometime soon. Hopefully my EBCs didn't screw up my expensive ProStop rotors.

 
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Well, I did all the above using a #3 driver and no go. They were tight as all getout! Yes, I need an impact driver next time.

 
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I wish I woulda known about it BEFORE I tried doing the brakes myself. Oh well, thats how you learn.

 
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Yes, that's why the first side took so long. I didn't have a #3 driver, had to run to Home Depot, then the screws were so tight that didn't even work. I had to drill them out which took some more time, then the caliper thing.... thought my pads were too thick! ... had to figure that out... sheesh! The other side took 15min or less!

You are right, that's how we learn!

 
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haha, I'm in the same situation, literally. I still have mine sitting on my desk, hoping my ProStops are fine.

 
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BTW, I can feel a difference but would like more stopping power, or should I say less pressure when I apply the brake. I might need to bleed the brakes, not sure. It just seems like although I have a little better stopping power, it's not as much as I thought it would be. Any ideas? Why do I have to apply so much pressure on the brake pedal? I want to make it more responsive so to speak.

Anyone?

p.s. Yes, I installed them correctly. You can't really mess up pads. Unless my rotors are backwards? Ok, if the box was labeled "R" for right, which side is the right side of the car? Doh! Doesn't it depend on where you are standing? If I am IN the car then it's obvious. Just making sure I didn't put the rotors on the wrong side!

 
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definitely need a brake bleed. pushing in the piston on the caliper will do something to the liquid your lines, so I say bleed 'em. I had to when I installed mine.

 
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Hey - did you have to buy replacement screws at the dealership, or did you get them from home depot or lowes??? I have to drill mine out as well...

 
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Mine came with the new rotors.

 
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i had the same problem.. not even with an impact driver i could get them out so i also had to drill all of them it took me like 4 hours to do both brakes. i put lithium grease on the new screws before i put them in and i didn't thight them that much so next time i have to take them out it will be easier i hope.

 
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Well, the drilling only takes like 30 seconds if you have a sharp bit. My time was wasted doing the "other" stuff I had to figure out on my own by trial and error, just like anything else. The DIY on this helped but I found once I got into it I quit looking at the paper I printed out and just went on machanical instinct.

 
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I'm getting delivery of my car next week, maybe I should take the screws out immediately and coat it with some grease before time takes it's toll?
Anyone ever consider doing that to different parts of the car in anticipation of making servicing a little easier in the future? Does the car already come with these critical parts already lubricated?

 
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just remove them and NEVER put them back they arent needed. They put those in on the assembly line to keep the rotors from falling off thats it!

 
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ok i replaced my oem brake pads with hawk hps(from the truehonda group buy) and was wondering...do i need to bleed the brakes to feel that i need less pressure when pressing the brakes? cuz right now it feels lke i have oem pads on there! but i do have oem rotors tho. is that why i dont feel much of a difference in pads???

also on another note how do you bleed brakes? i know its not as simple as opening up the bleed valve and pressing the brakes to squirt the fluid out. or is it???(help a noob out!)thanks

 
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Same here, mine seem to be real "squishy" lately. I think they are getting worse too. I changed rotors and pads but never did bleed the lines so I think we need to do this. I agree, details on how to do this would help. I don't know if I just need to worry about the fronts or do we need to bleed every valve.

 
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after installing new brake pads they wont need bleeding unless you opened up the hyd. system. If the pedal feels different after the new pads this can be caused just because its a different brake material composition. But the new brake pads will in no way cause the brakes to need bleeding. This dont mean that you may not need to bleed your brakes cause this is someting that should be preformed on your car every couple years depending on mileage, location, weather , driving habits, ............................

 
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Hey man did you drill out the head of the screw or the whole screw. cause i was wondering how you got the rest of the screw out. also about bleeding your barkes thats a 2 man job. What you is a wrench to open up the bleeder vavle, clear tubing big enough to fit over the valve and an empty bottle. Oh yeah...more brake fluid. Start with the valve farthest away form the master cylinder. Then have someone pump the brake like 8-10 times and on the last time tell them to keep their foot on the floor. OPen up the valve and when the fluid is done going thourgh the tube close. When the vavle is closed then the person inside can let up on the brake pedal. Watch the fluid as its going through the tube...when no air bubbles are present your done with that corner. Also keep an eye on your brake fluid level in your master cylinder. Only open it to fill it with more fluid. Alwasys have it closed when your bleeding it. Just repeat working your way up to the closest brake to your master clyinder. Remember start from farthest end at closet. Usually means passenger side rear first, then driver side rear, then passenger side front and finally driver side front. Have fun.

 
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I just used a drill bit large enough to drill out the head only, not touching the rotor though. So be careful not to get too large of a drill bit. I didn't have to drill in too far. Once the head of the screw is drilled out, or close to it... you can take a flat head screw driver and try to pry it off or knock it off just to make sure you don't drill too deep. Keep checking as you drill to make sure you have it free. (the head of the screw). Then, remove to rotor and use a pair of pliers or needle nose grips to unscrew the rest of it. There should be enough screw left to grab onto and that's why you do not want to drill too deep, I can't stress this enough.

Hope this helps! Thanks for the tips on bleeding brakes. Believe it or not, I've never done this. It seems like such an easy thing to do. I am starting to do more things to my car because I know it gets done right and it also is a huge cost savings.

 
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ok since we are in the topic of brake pads here. i just put back my steelies on my car(cuz i was using stock lug nuts on my rota slips) and ever since i put my steelies bake on my front brakes started to squeak! anyone have any ideas on wats up with this?(sorry for the thread jacking UW)

 
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Here is an interesting article on this topic...

http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/jk/at_000829.htm

Hopefully after reading it you will have more understanding of why your pads make the noises they do. Remember, it's very difficult to completely get rid of squeals. Even with my Brembo slots and Hawk pads I still get it from time to time. Then is goes away for awhile. I don't worry about it to be honest.

 
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^^^ thanks for the useful article(didnt get to read all of it yet just the first few paragraghs) but my pads...it just started to squeak now when i changed my wheels and tires today? you really think i shouldnt worry about??? cuz it just started today!

 
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I cannot say if you should worry about it or not, that's up to you. Read the article in full and if you think there is something wrong with the pads or rotors then you might want to have someone who knows a lot about this subject check it out for you. Most brake shops give free estimates! This at least might give you an idea if something major is wrong.

Why it just started after you just changed your rims and tires is interesting. Is that ALL you did? You didn't mess with the pads or rotors? If not, then it could just be from banging around in there you made the pads a little loose and now the vibration is causing the sqeal. It's hard to say really. Again, if it makes you feel more comfortable you can always have someone look at it just to be safe. After all, that's free at most places. Just make sure they SHOW you the problem if there is one, don't just take their word for it.

 
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ok thanks for the info(too lazy right now to read) but i will read ALL of the article when i feel like it(lol!)

 
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you can buy a caliper squeezer tool at pep boys. itslike 10 bucks. It works wonders.

 
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yea the impact driver works like magic! when I changed mine I used an impact driver and boom they came off.