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Man I am with you, except I have only 59,000 miles and have gone through 5 sets of pads, 3 sets of shoes, about to put on my third pair of rotors which now are brembo ( thank god ) and have gone through a set of drums. I think I am going to buy new calipers to while I am at it. I also got ebc greenstuff for pads. As for the rear brakes, check your drums. As to what just brakes told you, I dont really agree with that, I would go some place else if I were you, Just brakes rips off their customers in my opinion.

 
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I've decided on pro slot rotors and ebc greenstuff brakes. I should have them in by this weekend.

 
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ooooh , i see what youre saying, you meant that the holes are actually part of the molding process, as opposed to the holes being drilled into the rotors after the rotors are molded. i think that all "drilled" rotors are actually molded that way, im not sure if any(even the off-brans) are actually drilled into the rotor.

 
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you guys should try engine braking more often... i ran on my stock front pads till 30k...

 
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My front pads are just now needing replacement, and I have 67k miles....definitely need to try some engine braking guys

 
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I'd rather wear out my brakes , more than my clutch and/or engine. Maybe I should try a little engine help though.

 
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Although I completely agree, what about autos?

I have 55k on my car, still on first set of pads and shoes. There's a lot of pad left on the front... like 50%. Regardless, I will be upgrading. My S-O3s really helped braking.

Hey Zz, I remember someone asking how to check the rear shoes - so, how do you check them?

By the way, I looked up the Porterfield pads and I only see some for the 6th gen. Correct me if I'm wrong, but a while ago I remember someone saying that the 6th gens are the same as the 7th (in spite of the fact that the calipers are on the opposite side of the rotor from each other... and I suppose that's cuz 6th is double wish in the front and 7th is MacPherson... ?)

 
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call them and ask, these are the parts that I got and they fit fine.

Fronts: AP 465a R4-S $89.00
Rears: SHOE 517 R4-S $79.00

To check your shoes, you have to pop off the drums (no big deal) and look to see how much meterial is left on the shoe...


I'll post some picks soon to show in more detail.

 
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sorry, i was only directing my post to people with manuals

auto's don't have to worry because you just have to let off the gas to engine brake... autos engine brake every time...

 
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Not butt hurt here, I drive manual.

 
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sorry but i think youre mistaken, ever look at a tach in an auto when youre braking? the rpms go down to about idle. if it was engine braking, the rpms would be varying as it revved up with a downshift, slowly went down, then went back up after the transmission downshifted again.

 
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THe thing with autos is that they dont downshift unless you floor it. also the engine and the transmission arnt actually attaced (Just through the torque converter, if you know how it works You'd understand) so engine braking on an auto isnt nearly as effective as on a manual. but Technicly it is still there.

 
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how so?

i was agreeing with you all along, but i dont think that its engine braking. i mean, when you brake, the transmission(in my opinion, as indicated by the Tach) shifts into neutral(in essance, a kind of "stand-by" mode) because the rpms drop to around idle speeds, but when you ably the gas again, it shifts instantly into the proper gear.

am i right?

to me that isnt engine braking....

 
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ROFLMAO... i damn near fell out of my chair laughing so hard

 
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My underestanding of slotted rotors is not nessarily to reduce heat but to allow for faster escape of gases that are generated when the brake pad makes contact with the rotating rotor. As for drilled rotors i would only assume that its the same principal, but both i guess COULD reduce heat in the rotor.

 
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Generally most cars will wear out 2 plus sets of front brake pads to 1 set of rear brake shoes. To help even out and reduce some front brake wear adjusting your rear brakes will reduce front brake wear and increase rear brake wear, and overall give better braking performance to the car. Drum brake self adjusters seldomely work properly and this is why periodic adjustment is needed. I usually give my rear brakes a quick adjustment check everytime i rotate my tires.

 
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Porsch brakes are cross-drilled and internally vented.

 
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Origionall Reason for Drilled rotors: to help prevent a pad from Gassing out, wich is a form of brake fade. Modern solution: Most pads made to day dont Gass out rendering Drilled rotors unnessisary. If you do have pads that gass out under heavy use, get better pads. Down sides of Drilled: 1. prone to cracking under heavy use. 2. reduced mass due to drilling = Higher opperating temps of the brake system

Original Reason for SLotted: To help reduce the chance of glazing pads under heavy and prolonged use. Still usefull, however for 90% of the cars on the road, totally unnessisary. Down side: Same as with drilling, however there is less of a chance of cracks forming.

Now, one person found a site that said that Brembo Slotted rotors were over twice as heavy as their OEM replacements. I still find this hard to believe, but if it is true then Brembo Slotted rotors would be a good choice if you do moutain running or track days. However, due to the increaced mass you will hinder acceleration (Heavier Rotating mass). so you have to make a trade off, do you need the extra Heat capibility and is the reduction in acceleration going to hurt you more or less then early brake fade (In race applications)

 
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Yes, but on their race cars they use slotted.




EternalVTEC: Its been awhile since I've driven an automatic but I'm pretty sure it doesnt go in to "Nutural" when you lift off the gas. Yes the RPMs do drop, but thats because the Tranny and engine are not really connected... I assume you konw how a torque converter works, so with that knowlage the same principle of transfering torque from the engine throught the converter to the transmission would apply in transfering Torque form the transmission through the converter to the engine. But because of how a torque converter works, not nearly as much power gets transfered as would with a manual transmission.

Simple way to prove/disprove would be this. take your automatic car and drive down a road, lift off the gas and coast with the car in D. Note the RPMs. Now Do the same thing but as you lift off the gas, drop the car in to N (neutural) and note the RPMS. If I am right when you drop it in to N while coasting the cars RPMs will drop farther and quicker then if it were in D, If I'm wrong then the RPMs will dorp the same amount at the same rate in both instances.

So I beileve that autocmatics do have a form of engine brakeing but its just not nearly as effective as in a Manual transmission.

 
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Im pretty sure most if not all Automatic trans cars do some sort of engine braking, but your correct its not nearly as effective as manual trans cars using down shifting to slow the car.

 
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well, in the case of just letting off the gas and decelerating, then, yes. autos do, very marginally engine brake.

however, i thought you were talking about deceleration with braking also. in that case, i dont think that there is as much engine braking as just decelerating.

as a note, yes, i do know how a torque converter works