Brembo Blanks Vs. OEM Rotors
Brembo Blanks Vs. OEM Rotors 
02-25-2004
#2
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Rep Power: 356 
Venting, Brembo has a better design and the rotor is made to a higher standard.
This should explain it.
This should explain it.
02-25-2004
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Rep Power: 0 Well, I've heard it's better to get brembo blanks then slotted because slotted is less mass therefore more heat................But , isn't the whole point of slotted rotors to reduce heat??? You seem to be the brake expert on this forum so I ask you.
02-25-2004
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Rep Power: 356 If you are really pushing the brakes as hard as they can go then yes Blanks are the way to go. Slotting Might be worth it, but their only real use is to help reduce glazing of the pad (which can also be done by not riding the brakes), the down side of slotting is the reduction in mass causing the whole system to work at a higher temp. So slotted may be worth it if you arnt overheating the brakes with your driving.
Drilled.... Well if you push your car hard at all, street or track then i would avoid drilled rotors totally, especially if you are using any sort of High performance pads.
Drilled.... Well if you push your car hard at all, street or track then i would avoid drilled rotors totally, especially if you are using any sort of High performance pads.
02-25-2004
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Rep Power: 0 In my case what's happening is I'm going thru brakes like there nothing................this is my 3rd time changing the brakes and my car has 62,000 on it...........The guys at Just brakes said it's because my rear brakes are shot and are putting the full stress on my front ones, last time I got my brakes done my rotors had major heaT SPOTS, so now I'm deciding on which is the simplest and most productive way to go.
02-25-2004
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Rep Power: 356 Originally posted by HondaLuver
hes not the expert, hes just the pw of this fourm
my front rotors have more heat spots on them than a hooker with herpies
hes not the expert, hes just the pw of this fourm
my front rotors have more heat spots on them than a hooker with herpies
2. Thats just not right....
JoeyCrac, do you do alot of city stop and go driving?
because that will wear out brakes much quicker then highway driving..
also, how hard are you on your brakes? excessive heat with stock pads will accelerate pad wear.
as far as the rear brakes being shot, check them I had 63,000 miles on my ORIGINAL pads and shoes before I changed them, and the shoes could have been used for another 20,000 miles at least.
02-25-2004
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Rep Power: 356 Originally posted by EternalVTEC
Zz, i totally agree with you but i was just wondering if you know something, why does porche use drilled rotors?
Zz, i totally agree with you but i was just wondering if you know something, why does porche use drilled rotors?
wouldnt a porsche look wierd with out them? at this point they are a cosmetic feature, because if porsche sold the car with pads that gassed out, there would be a lot of pissed off Ex porsche drivers.....
this is a picture of a GT classed 911GT3 (Full race car) brakes
notice that they are just slotted....
this is the car that the pictures from
02-27-2004
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Rep Power: 356 Originally posted by JoeyCrack
^^^ EXACTLY!
i DONT THINK THEY'RE MUCH DIFFERENT THEN STOCK
^^^ EXACTLY!
i DONT THINK THEY'RE MUCH DIFFERENT THEN STOCK
they are very different from stock, and what does it matter changing rotors doent shorten stoping distances any way. their primary job is to absorb and dessipate heat. other then that the only other thing they do is give the pads something to rub on. If you want shorter stopping distances you need 2 things, a good brake pad and a good tire.
02-27-2004
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Rep Power: 0 I'm trying to determine what is the best set up to reduce heat, increase stopping and provide longer brake life. I am also trying to get the best bang for my buck.+
Also can the people who have changed their rotors and brakes share how much of a difference it made??? and How they like thier set up???
Also can the people who have changed their rotors and brakes share how much of a difference it made??? and How they like thier set up???
02-27-2004
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Rep Power: 356 I run brembo blanks and Porterfield R4-S pads/shoes. the pad compound is good to 1100F, I have yet to get them there, even with me driving down mountain roads.
Personal Views, the pads are great, good modulation (they dont stick to the rotor like some pads do) and they give a measureable increase in brake power. only downside, They work better when they are a bit warm so the first couple of stops in the morning take a bit more pressure then nomal.
Views on the rotor: good improvemnts over stock by having better ventilation = more heat dessipation. though the only time you'd notice is if you've pushed the brakes to the point of fade. (though alot of this increaced temp resistance comes from the pad.)
What I can say about upgrading rotors. If you are very hard on your brakes then its probably a good Idea, they will run cooler then the stock rotors, but if you dont run the crap out of your car then you'll probably never notice the difference between them and stock rotors.
So, For the cheepest upgrade simply upgrade the pads and shoes.
a good Ceramic Kevlar pad will do quite well on the street (better wear, better stoping, and a decent increase in temp resistance). If you push your car harder then a Carbon Kevlar or Carbon metalic pad may be in order, though they do tend to be noisyer then Stock and Ceramic pads. You have to keep in mind that increaced stopping power means that the pads are going to wear out a bit quicker, but alot of that depends on how you drive.
Personal Views, the pads are great, good modulation (they dont stick to the rotor like some pads do) and they give a measureable increase in brake power. only downside, They work better when they are a bit warm so the first couple of stops in the morning take a bit more pressure then nomal.
Views on the rotor: good improvemnts over stock by having better ventilation = more heat dessipation. though the only time you'd notice is if you've pushed the brakes to the point of fade. (though alot of this increaced temp resistance comes from the pad.)
What I can say about upgrading rotors. If you are very hard on your brakes then its probably a good Idea, they will run cooler then the stock rotors, but if you dont run the crap out of your car then you'll probably never notice the difference between them and stock rotors.
So, For the cheepest upgrade simply upgrade the pads and shoes.
a good Ceramic Kevlar pad will do quite well on the street (better wear, better stoping, and a decent increase in temp resistance). If you push your car harder then a Carbon Kevlar or Carbon metalic pad may be in order, though they do tend to be noisyer then Stock and Ceramic pads. You have to keep in mind that increaced stopping power means that the pads are going to wear out a bit quicker, but alot of that depends on how you drive.
02-27-2004
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Rep Power: 0 Also, Ive been comparing the information from brembo's website and the brembo oem rotors are 12 lbs and the slotted rotor are 24 lbs...Wow! Why are the slotted so much heavier, I guess that would create less heat(being that heavier means more mass) But wouldn't the extra weight create more rapid brake wear. Zzyx, Are the slotted rotors wider or have more surface area then the oem brembo's?
02-27-2004
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Rep Power: 356 ^^ They are probably thicker. being heavier would allow them to absorb more heat, but I think having twice as much mass will also slow down your accelreation so Its a trade off.. performance is all about balance.
are you sure they are for the same car? that seems a bit excessive.
are you sure they are for the same car? that seems a bit excessive.
02-27-2004
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Rep Power: 0 Yes, Same car...... and I thought the same thing.........Check it out ! You may need to cut/paste
http://www.importrp.com/catalogm.php...year_name=2001
http://www.importrp.com/catalogm.php...year_name=2001
02-27-2004
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Rep Power: 356 That doesnt make sense, they have 2 OE replacements and they are 1 LB different in weight. I dont konw how accurate those #s are. something isnt right, they have 2 of each with 2 different weights.
02-28-2004
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Rep Power: 356 makes sense, well in that case I say this:
Ya cant go wrong with brembo blanks, they are good quality and have better venting then stock.
If you are really running in to heat problems then the heavier rotor will help, however stay away from drilled.
also, you are doubling the rotational mass and that affects acceleration and increaces your unsprung weight (wich inturn affects handling), so I'd say only get them if you really are over heating the brakes.
Ya cant go wrong with brembo blanks, they are good quality and have better venting then stock.
If you are really running in to heat problems then the heavier rotor will help, however stay away from drilled.
also, you are doubling the rotational mass and that affects acceleration and increaces your unsprung weight (wich inturn affects handling), so I'd say only get them if you really are over heating the brakes.
02-28-2004
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Rep Power: 0 Originally posted by EternalVTEC
i dont know, ive driven about a dozen at work and i can see all the way through these things you imply to be molded "dimples"
i dont know, ive driven about a dozen at work and i can see all the way through these things you imply to be molded "dimples"
02-28-2004
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Rep Power: 356 depends on which compound
EBC Greenstuff, Redstuff or yellow?
Hawk HP+, HPS,Black ?
Its mostly about temp, but some compounds have a higher Coefficient of friction then others.
For EBC temp wise goes like this
Green (1202F)
Red (1382F)
Yellow (1472F)
Hawk Temp:I dont have temp ranges for HPS and HP+ but it can be assumed that they are sub 900F pads and that from the descritpion of them the HP+ are the mid temp pad
HPS
HP+
Black (900F)
Personally I wouldnt run an EBC Yellow on the street. but Red would be good for Street/track.
EBC Greenstuff, Redstuff or yellow?
Hawk HP+, HPS,Black ?
Its mostly about temp, but some compounds have a higher Coefficient of friction then others.
For EBC temp wise goes like this
Green (1202F)
Red (1382F)
Yellow (1472F)
Hawk Temp:I dont have temp ranges for HPS and HP+ but it can be assumed that they are sub 900F pads and that from the descritpion of them the HP+ are the mid temp pad
HPS
HP+
Black (900F)
Personally I wouldnt run an EBC Yellow on the street. but Red would be good for Street/track.
