'10 LX A/C not working in warm weather
'10 LX A/C not working in warm weather
Hey everyone, so I have a 2010 Honda Civic LX and the A/C is constantly blowing warm air on warmer days. I decided to try and troubleshoot it myself using my Chilton's & YouTube/forums. (I'm not by any means a mechanic & am far from one, I just tend to troubleshoot & use process of elimination before dumping $ I don't have to spend on the fix.)
I went top to bottom with this thing, I've checked the Omron fuse that tends to usually go first under the hood in the fuse box, the fuse isn't broken & have tested other fuses to ensure that. (I actually fixed my gfs A/C by figuring out these fuses can go, so at least someone's A/C is saved lol). The plate on the compressor is in fact spinning, so it engaging leads me to believe it's not a fuse or the pressure sensor. I checked the blower fan, blender door, and cabin air filter to ensure no clogs or issues there. I'm not able to check the high side pressure, but have checked the low side & coolant and have recharged the system to 40-45 psi low side.
Now, the A/C does blow cold when it's dark out or if it's early in the morning before the sun has been beating down on the car all day. The conflicting thing is, I've read about the metal warping due to heat and the clutch plate not getting caught by the magnetic switch so it doesn't engage? That would lead me to believe the clutch plate on the compressor isn't spinning, which in fact isn't the issue mine is having, so I'm kinda at a complete loss here. I'm not really sure what else is a factor on the check list for things to be not properly working.
If anyone has any ideas, they'd be really appreciated.
Update: I tested temps in my mom's 2020 Jeep Trailhawk and she gets anywhere from 40-48 degrees Fahrenheit from the vents on Max A/C, I get 75 Fahrenheit. It's 77F degrees outside today.
My compressor is on, but is not pushing cold air to the cabin, the valves feel cold from the high/low side.
I went top to bottom with this thing, I've checked the Omron fuse that tends to usually go first under the hood in the fuse box, the fuse isn't broken & have tested other fuses to ensure that. (I actually fixed my gfs A/C by figuring out these fuses can go, so at least someone's A/C is saved lol). The plate on the compressor is in fact spinning, so it engaging leads me to believe it's not a fuse or the pressure sensor. I checked the blower fan, blender door, and cabin air filter to ensure no clogs or issues there. I'm not able to check the high side pressure, but have checked the low side & coolant and have recharged the system to 40-45 psi low side.
Now, the A/C does blow cold when it's dark out or if it's early in the morning before the sun has been beating down on the car all day. The conflicting thing is, I've read about the metal warping due to heat and the clutch plate not getting caught by the magnetic switch so it doesn't engage? That would lead me to believe the clutch plate on the compressor isn't spinning, which in fact isn't the issue mine is having, so I'm kinda at a complete loss here. I'm not really sure what else is a factor on the check list for things to be not properly working.
If anyone has any ideas, they'd be really appreciated.
Update: I tested temps in my mom's 2020 Jeep Trailhawk and she gets anywhere from 40-48 degrees Fahrenheit from the vents on Max A/C, I get 75 Fahrenheit. It's 77F degrees outside today.
My compressor is on, but is not pushing cold air to the cabin, the valves feel cold from the high/low side.
Last edited by shame; Sep 10, 2021 at 01:33 PM. Reason: Added information
Re: '10 LX A/C not working in warm weather
Thanks, very helpful and informative
Yeah, assuming you mean general temp controls both cold/hot, cycling to heat and back to cold functions correctly, as well as the blender door providing air flow to every vent necessary
Yeah, assuming you mean general temp controls both cold/hot, cycling to heat and back to cold functions correctly, as well as the blender door providing air flow to every vent necessary
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