Is AC overcharged?
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Re: Is AC overcharged?
Ok that's an open circuit, not a dead short.
That makes it easier to condemn the coil now, just verify everything is still connected and no wires got chewed in half.
Easiest to reach it from underneath. Take the splash shields out of the way and you can reach it pretty easy...
IF you can get under the car!
I'm doing a set of fuel lines under a 13 Accord in the morning, rodent chewed through the fuel feed line on top of the gas tank. The price estimate was over a grand for a set of factory fuel lines and labor. The guys insurance is covering it....this time.
That makes it easier to condemn the coil now, just verify everything is still connected and no wires got chewed in half.
I'll try again today after work but it's a really tight fit. I could probably unplug it but I can't see myself being able to get a lead down there and reliably touching the connector.
IF you can get under the car!
Little buggers can cause some expensive damage too.
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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Spec for air gap is .020" +/- .006" for a new clutch and pulley.
Feeler gauges don't work well on a worn clutch, I use a dial indicator for all my clutch setups.
Feeler gauges don't work well on a worn clutch, I use a dial indicator for all my clutch setups.
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Re: Is AC overcharged?
Ok, so i got the stuff. I got the pulley and finally got the coil off. now i can't seem to get the snap ring back on. the one that came with the new parts flew off the snap ring pliers so i can't find it. i am using the one that came off. called dealerships..autozone..oreilleys..advanced auto.. standard auto.. everywhere and can't seem to find the snap ring... any ideas or could i just use the old one and not worry about it? I am going to take the whole compressor off tomorrow.. i'm tired of messing with it.. this is the 3rd day working on this car..
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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Use the old one if you have to, if you did not hurt it getting it apart.
Be aware of the one beveled inner edge, it faces you as you install it.
Be aware of the one beveled inner edge, it faces you as you install it.
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I think I M going to take compressor all the way out. Am I going to have to add more oil to compressor? If so where do I buy it and how do I put it in? Oh, and how much?
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Unless you have a way to recover the freon out of the system safely, you better not attempt to disconnect either hose from the compressor or system.
If you need to disconnect hoses please visit a professional to have the freon safely removed from the system, then it can be safely and accurately refilled by the same person when you are done.
If you don't have the system open very long (cap off the open hoses and compressor ports) the drier does not need to be replaced. It's in the side of the condensor, it resembles a bag, that slides up inside a large tube.
If you need to disconnect hoses please visit a professional to have the freon safely removed from the system, then it can be safely and accurately refilled by the same person when you are done.
If you don't have the system open very long (cap off the open hoses and compressor ports) the drier does not need to be replaced. It's in the side of the condensor, it resembles a bag, that slides up inside a large tube.
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Unless you have a way to recover the freon out of the system safely, you better not attempt to disconnect either hose from the compressor or system.
If you need to disconnect hoses please visit a professional to have the freon safely removed from the system, then it can be safely and accurately refilled by the same person when you are done.
If you don't have the system open very long (cap off the open hoses and compressor ports) the drier does not need to be replaced. It's in the side of the condensor, it resembles a bag, that slides up inside a large tube.
If you need to disconnect hoses please visit a professional to have the freon safely removed from the system, then it can be safely and accurately refilled by the same person when you are done.
If you don't have the system open very long (cap off the open hoses and compressor ports) the drier does not need to be replaced. It's in the side of the condensor, it resembles a bag, that slides up inside a large tube.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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How much oil was lost?
How did you remove the freon from the system?
Also, replace the O ring seals on any fittings you took apart.
How did you remove the freon from the system?
Also, replace the O ring seals on any fittings you took apart.
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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You will have to guesstimate how much oil was lost.
Here's a list I found
PAG oil SP-10
parts replacement quantities:
cond 50 ml
evap 40
each line or hose 10
drier 10
comp 75-85
Here's a list I found
PAG oil SP-10
parts replacement quantities:
cond 50 ml
evap 40
each line or hose 10
drier 10
comp 75-85
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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Did you plug it in? Did you turn it on?
Is the thermal protector undamaged? it should have continuity
Is the thermal protector undamaged? it should have continuity
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you got a 3 wire plug that connects to the harness on top of the alternator.
Only one of the 3 operates the clutch
The other 2 are for the thermal protector that was also on the outside of the compressor. If you banged the compressor around getting it out and in you may have damaged it.
Oh, and the system has to have pressure in it before it can start.
Only one of the 3 operates the clutch
The other 2 are for the thermal protector that was also on the outside of the compressor. If you banged the compressor around getting it out and in you may have damaged it.
Oh, and the system has to have pressure in it before it can start.
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you got a 3 wire plug that connects to the harness on top of the alternator.
Only one of the 3 operates the clutch
The other 2 are for the thermal protector that was also on the outside of the compressor. If you banged the compressor around getting it out and in you may have damaged it.
Oh, and the system has to have pressure in it before it can start.
Only one of the 3 operates the clutch
The other 2 are for the thermal protector that was also on the outside of the compressor. If you banged the compressor around getting it out and in you may have damaged it.
Oh, and the system has to have pressure in it before it can start.
On the thermal up only one that has power is the outside hole.
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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Unplug the 3 wire connector.
Ohm check the outer 2 red wires. Should have continuity between the two.
Ohm check the outer 2 red wires. Should have continuity between the two.
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: Is AC overcharged?
Fixing a cut wire would be cheaper/easier/faster than replacing a part, no?
Did you recharge the system yet?
I've been totally going on the assumption that now the fans do not come on when you turn the AC on.
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Ok the thermal switch have has continuity between outer ones.. Jump between 3 and 5 terminal made the clutch pull in.. Voltage on the relay one has partial power.. The other ohm ed out at 3-4..
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I tried recharging systsystebut clutch won't engage to suck any in.. Is it supposed to run when I connect the can? Or no?
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I put the red probe in the female end of the bullet connector the connects to the compressor and it had no voltage. I put the black on the compressor. No voltage. Is it supposed to have voltage?
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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