maverickfhs

Guys, have recently picked up a 'new' to me 06 Coupe EX with Automatic transmission from first owner with ~190K.

So far I have checked utilizing the VIN#, car never had any problem in terms of 'engine block' issues. Also, have a detailed history from day one where ATF has been changed almost every year, also engine oil has been changed after every 3000-4500 miles.

In terms of maintenance, I am going to do:

1-An oil change, can I use L14610 filter or stick to OEM?

2-ATF filter change, depends on mileage since last DW change, else might do drain/refill and filter together.

3-Looking at air filter, to see how it looks like.

4-Topping off all fluids

5-Inspecting belts

6-Spark plugs

7-Any other thing you guys would suggest?

Also, where can I download a service/repair manual in a PDF format?

Thanks everyone

P.S: for reference, I drive like a grandpa.

ezone

Cabin filter,
tires,
brakes
RECALLS: Check yours here recalls.honda.com

maverickfhs

Thanks so much EZ

I'll google cabin air filter and add it to the list too.

Tires are good and from 25th week of 2014. All are matching and really good tread for Bridgestone Tauranza.

Brakes need to be replaced in a few thousand miles, maybe 10,000.

All recalls, as per the dealer are up to date. Thanks for the link, verified it too:

Recall Result




Year: 2006
Make: Honda
Model: Civic Coupe
Last Updated: Dec 14, 2016

Number of Open Recalls: 0



Also, checked for issues in terms of block being cracked and all. As per dealer, this VIN is not in the affected ones. Should I believe him?


BTW, can you please point me to the latest diagram of EX(R18) serpentine belt? There are multiple images floating around . Found this one: http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/mecha...tine-belt.html

Also, do you know the part number for any Continental/goodyear or gates or any good belt?

ezone

It was a candidate, but if it no longer shows up on the dealers VIN report, it could be:

A) no longer be covered by the warranty extension because it's long past the 10 year time limit, or maybe
B) already been completed
??


Serp belt, I'd expect a dealers belt to last 10 years/100k miles.....Aftermarket belts may be hit or miss.

maverickfhs

As always, thanks so much HONDA god

I'll check with another dealer or even Honda of NA. Yep noted about the belt. Thanks

maverickfhs

So I just checked with another dealer and Honda of NA and was told that 'engine block' was replaced at 52,000 miles in Nov of 2010. Does anyone know if they replace the whole engine or just the block?

Should I put my mind to ease?

ezone

If the block was already replaced, you're good.
For proof, the original block would have had the cars VIN on a metal tag attached to the back of the block, the replacement block has none.


Whenever I (personally) have had to do a block job on a car like that, it got whatever parts it needed to be a running and reliable unit again at that time. That does not mean everything in the engine compartment got replaced....it got only what was needed.

maverickfhs

Sure, makes perfect sense. Thank you.

Will try to to see if I can find the 'blank VIN'.

ezone

I don't have a good clear pic of that one, but the tag would have been on the back, below the starter and above the oil pan line, held on with what looks like a pair of rivets. The tags I remember were usually green.

The replacement blocks have no tag at all there, just the bosses where the plate could be mounted if it were going into a new car on the assembly line.

maverickfhs

Thanks again for your help, will follow your directions. I have seen a few images today and think I'll be bale to locate it

maverickfhs

I went for inspection today and was told that 'transmission mount' is bad.

Guy showed me and it was almost next to the reasonator pipe and was accessible from underneath the car. Is it a transmission mount or some other lower mount?

Based on my description, is this the right part and location? http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine...0-sna-a82.html

Pict highlighted is the area I am talking about, which mount is it?

Thanks for the help.

ezone

I would not call that a trans mount, that's the engines' "torque rod, lower" in the parts catalog. Simple DIY replacement, 3 bolts and it's done. You could pull it out and look at it up close if you wanted too..

The only trans mount is on top of the trans. I've not seen one bad yet.
I've replaced plenty of engine mounts though (#6 in your catalog pic) for horribly harsh engine vibration.

maverickfhs

Thanks, is this the right part? It has two #18 and one #14 and it's plug n play, correct? http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine...nts,2521226,10

Clearly he was 'like' me that's why called it transmission mount

#6 is expensive

ezone

Ya, 3 bolts.

Raise the front wheels off the ground...... Crawl under it with some 17mm tools and you can have it out in just a few minutes.
(I can have it out in a matter of seconds with an impact gun)

If it doesn't have enough room to slide out of the subframe, push on the oil pan to rock the engine so there's more room.



That's the one that causes the noticeable vibration complaints. There's a couple of TSBs about it for various versions of the car.

maverickfhs

So put the car front on jack stands and use 17mm to take those bad boys out. Should I go OEM or aftermarket?

Thanks so much, HONDA God

I was looking at your other thread:

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ntrol-arm.html

ezone

That's up to you. My preference is usually Honda, and the price looked cheap enough.
Not mine. Ripsaw started it.

I still haven't noticed any of the lower ones bad over here. Maybe I'm not looking hard enough? Maybe the cars I get to see have bigger problems that need immediate attention/take priority?

maverickfhs

Agreed, I'll go OEM and not 'cheap'.

Or maybe we both are from VA and inspectors here are a ROYAL PITA for passing a car!

Like literally, they come up with so much BS, it's just hard to believe and deal
BTW, do I need to lift the oil pan with a jack/wooden piece if that mount has any stress from engine or car side or no? If not, then I'll just put the car on jack stand and will be good to go!

Thanks again

ezone

I live in a place with no emissions inspections, and no safety inspections. Personally, I think they leave huge opportunities for the unscrupulous to rake someone unknowing over the coals, hold the car hostage until you spend a bunch of money.

I bet other people wouldn't say it needs the same things your inspection says. Maybe more, maybe less. maybe completely different



Did this person actually show you how and why it's bad (excessive movement), or did they just tell you about it and show you where it is on the car?



I look for legitimately needed stuff, and I have no problem showing someone problems I find....even if most non-car people don't understand it LOL.


No lifting. The engine and trans mounts (#6 and #7) support 100% of the weight.
The drivetrain will be able to rock on those two mounts after you remove the bolts from the bottom torque rod.
The torque rod only limits how much the drivetrain can rock when a load is applied (accelerating in forward or reverse gears)...note some movement is normal and expected.

maverickfhs

Mind asking if you are in MN, that's another place where they don't require ANYTHING at all. I would love to move there, but that cold....


Yeah, he showed me very quickly and I saw rubber portion had some fluid and had a tear(not sure?) or maybe inspector was just giving me hard time. At one point, it looked totally fine to me.

Then can't I just use ramps that'll be a lot easier. Car on ramps, crawl underneath, crack 3 bolts, tighten it back up and BOOM. Done.

Isn't it? BTW, what's the torque spec for those bolts?

Thanks again

ezone

No, I'm in the flat lands of corn and all fuels here are at least 10% Ethanol because of it.
If there's fluid on it, that came from somewhere else. That mount has no fluid in it. You should figure out what's leaking though, and wonder why that wasn't noted by the inspector.
Tear, but not sure? Get under and look some more!

Ramps, sure.....but you'll want to leave trans in neutral so the drivetrain is free to move. Set the handbrake good and tight for sure.

maverickfhs

Gotcha.

Thanks EZ, yeah I am going to get underneath the car to see what else is there and if there's any fluid or just rubber portion is falling apart?

Yeah will follow your tip about transmission being in neutral, then jack would be a safe bet, as well as handbrake.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Most Honda parts are very reasonably priced.....and no rolling the dice with 3rd party stuff.

If they had inspections in this area half the cars/trucks would be parked.

maverickfhs

Agreed and very true. But sometimes cheap prices can be tempting, but I always slap myself to go OEM

Are you from the same area? I need to move there. Lol at 50% cars/trucks being parked

maverickfhs

Went through the detailed records from the previous owner and these are the things I am planning to do:

1-filter and oil change.

2-spark plugs, are these the right ones? http://m.ebay.com/itm/172283062391?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6456

3- Serpentine belt, use Bando or gates or doesn't matter?

4- Air filter.

5-rear brake pads and rotors. Should I go OEM here too?

Thanks very much guys

ezone

Is that $22.82 price for just one plug, or is it that much for a set of 4?

Is it really in need or due for plugs?
The correct precious metal plugs are on the 100,000 mile replacement schedule.....(but IMO they wear soooo slowly they could outlast the engine if nothing causes them to foul out)


The catalog says the correct plugs are
IZFR6K-11S (NGK)
or
SKJ20DR-M11S (DENSO)
I'd go with Bando or Mitsuboshi, both were OEM
Have you checked engine and cabin filters to see if they really need replaced yet?
Maint minder item #2 will get them replaced roughly every 25-30k. If you drive in a dirty environment they may need to be replaced more often.

FYI a dirty air filter will not cause a drop in gas mileage in modern fuel injected engines, but it may cause a decrease in performance.



Depends.
I get zero noise complaints from Honda brake pads, and all the expected lifespan of factory brakes.

I totally expect a comeback or complaints if we have to use aftermarket pads.....but most aftermarket ceramic pads seem to be pretty quiet.

Rotors? My shop machines rotors as long as they don't go thinner than the minimum spec. When we have to get rotors, we usually offer the customer the choice of Honda or aftermarket... and note their choice on the work order for future reference.

I've got a problem with cheapo front rotors, many just warp no matter what. Read:

http://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-articles/importance-quality-brake-rotors/

If it were mine and there was no serious rust, no vibration, nothing noticeable wrong with the rotors, I'd probably slap new pads on and drive it. It may take a few miles for the pads to seat, but I'm ok with that.

maverickfhs

EZ, are you a magician or know things virtually?

So I looked at the air filter and it looked clean and in great condition. Removed one spark plug and it was looking good too(I think), attaching picts. I am always scared about air filter, because it might cause trouble for MAF sensor?

BTW, plug price was for a pack of 4 and I thought it was cheap for Iridium ones.

Overall pict of the ribs look good for the belt too. Am I right in saying or no?

I'll take your advice, will buy OEM pads and just slap on the pads in Spring/Summer time since pads still have meat on them.

Please have a look on the pict for the Torque mount, I took a few today.

maverickfhs

BTW, can I mix 'peak 50/50' antifreeze with Honda OEM coolant since I have many laying around, or should stick to Honda one? Currently car has OEM honda one.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

^^^No, do not use anything but Honda type II 50/50 premix.

Some will evaporate over time, so I keep the leftover from the drain and fill to top up reservoir.

RIPSAW

Mine similar set up ...very easy to replace. Eye ball your top one on the passenger side to make sure your mount has a gap on that little finger that hangs down. If you have a rough vibration at idle, it is the pad if that projection has bottomed on it. The transmission mount on top left if you have one has oil in it so if it tears, it will tell you. (least my other Honda, a CRV did)

ezone

I'm a shaman, a seer.

I suggest checking the items you intended to replace without checking, because I am practicing predicting the future: You would have kicked yourself for spending money you didn't need to spend.


======================

The belt will normally turn brown as it ages. That alone does not make it bad. I still wait for cracking to appear in the teeth of the belt before suggesting replacement.

=================

Plug looks fine to me, no appreciable wear and looks like burning ok, not fouled. I'd keep on running with them myself.

=======================

Air filter...if it's done correctly there's no issue with the MAF. Changing the filter is stupid simple, just don't screw up the clips.
I'd be more concerned with a cheapo filter causing problems, like poor gasket sealing and low quality paper element that lets more contaminants through.
I've seen a bug caught in the MAF, the engine wouldn't even run.

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You have an oil leak above the mount that should be fixed.
The usual culprit is the 'oil separator cover', the black stamped steel plate up on the back of the block held on with 6 small bolts.... that just needs pulled off and resealed with fresh Hondabond. Clean off the mess from the leak too.

If you don't fix the leak, your new mount will be oil soaked and ruined again in short order.

AGAIN, why didn't the "inspector" mention the oil leak that ruined the mount?

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There are advantages to the Honda coolant.
It is correct, no question.
It's already premixed, pour in and go.

First coolant service is about 10 years/100k miles, then every 5/50 thereafter. There should be a sticker in the engine compartment with info, and the owners manual has info.

Yours also got fresh coolant when the engine block job was done, keep that in mind.

I haven't seen corrosion inside a cooling system in over a decade.

Water pump leaks kinda dropped off the radar after Honda switched to this Type2. (On the 06-09 Civics, I've replaced far more blocks than water pumps if that tells you anything)
Seems like most of the pumps I replace these days had something other than Hondas coolant in the system.

Slow coolant evaporation is expected, as Craig said. Keep your leftovers on hand.

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If you still have meat on the pads, their actual lifespan may surprise you.

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