maverickfhs

Noted, will ONLY use Type 2 bought from Honda.

maverickfhs

Thanks RIPSAW, I am planning to buy and install this one coming week, weather permitting. As you know VA weather!

My passenger one(motor mount, under the hood) has been replaced by the previous owner and I think it was like a $300ish for just the part

maverickfhs

You are very knowledgeable and a gentleman(funny one too), thanks for saving me $$$.


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Makes perfect sense, that has been my experience with other cars. But I'll wait for some cracks to actually show up and then will look into it for replacement.

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Yep, not spending a penny on the plugs, thanks to PO

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I have OEM(honda one), agreed it was simple and clean so not spending any money on that as well.
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He doesn't care about the leak, I guess? Do you have a pic for that gasket location? Can it be done from the top or no? Can I use any sealant or just Honda bond?
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Actually mine was also done nearly 2 years ago, so I am good on that front. Just wanted to top it off since reservoir was showing at 'Min' level.
Sticking to Honda Type 2, thanks again for all of that knowledgeable insight and help.

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Wait and watch policy, since I don't brake like a crazy person and I drive 'SLOW'(like a grandpa) so will wait till next year.

Thanks again.

ezone

Got you over a barrel with the inspection crap?...You won't get a sticker until he says so? Did he give you an estimate for repairs? Or is it a test and inspect only place, no repairs are done there?

IMO that mount doesn't present a true hazard, the engine isn't going to fall out on the ground. The centers can't come out of the loops even if all the rubber were missing.

Replacing the mount is much easier and more profitable than fixing the root cause (leak). Charge you an hour to replace the mount in 2 minutes, vs. fixing the oil leak that will bill you for a couple hours of labor and will actually take a couple hours.
Plus, you will need another mount by the time the next inspection is due! More profit!
Crawl under again with a flashlight and look up.

Your best hope is that the oil mess was made by the previous engine leaking oil prior to block replacement, and the person who installed the new block got this cover plate sealed well during assembly.

Pic from a block replacement job is below. You can see the baffle area (zigzags) on the right, there was a black steel cover over that. You can see it was also a leaker, oil running all down the block below the baffle area made a mess.



You can also just see the green VIN tag near the bottom covered in a mess.



No. Gotta be done from underneath. Axle usually has to come out, and there is a small bracket on the bottom of the intake that has to come off. The plastic intake manifold stays on the engine. It's a tight fit and a bit of a reach, takes a little finesse to reach all of the bolts, but it's very doable for me.
The right sealant, and the job done well, should last the life of the engine. You don't want to do this job over again every couple years, do you?
Hondabond, or IMO-- Permatex Ultra Gray would be something I would use if I didn't have the Hondabond.

maverickfhs

Yes, no sticker as per him. I mean, I can take it to a different place and get the inspection done if it's not a safety hazard or a problem? According to him, he heard something was making a noise and that's because of that 'mount'. Yeah. minimum he's going to charge 1 hr for labor, they do repairs too!

Usually, around here, majority of the shops have inspectors and repair facility, to make money
I have tonight to think and decide if it's not a safety hazard/issue then I can continue driving it like this and get it replaced down the road. Else, I'll order the part tomorrow and will change it out this coming week.

Well said and so right, as usual!

Though oil mess does not look new, but I am again going to find the root cause of it. Where' it's actually coming from. That's another reason that leak was not mentioned in PO records, because dealers also want to make quick money on easy stuff, I mean there's nothing wrong with it but that makes sense.
Fingers crossed!!!

Thanks for the pict, I have done a complete head gasket on a 1994 Accord EX, as well as 2003 Civic LX, but definitely do not want to do on a daily driver after every 6 months. Lol

I have used Permatex 'Black' on majority of things and that's why was asking. Thanks again.

ezone

How did I guess all that?
*crystalball.jpg*

IDK about going elsewhere, I'm not familiar with your local rules and regs.
It all depends on who is looking. No two people will ever notice exactly the same things, not everyone will critique the same way, or be concerned about the same things.

Some only look for the low hanging fruit, and once in a while you run across someone who actually cares about doing the right thing. Some can only find brake jobs, and every car they touch somehow needs a brake job right now.

It may not be leaking.
It may have been suggested to repair, but maybe the driver didn't ever notice puddles on the garage floor so it must not be a bad enough leak to worry about.
Who knows?

FYI warranty didn't grant the tech any extra labor time and chemicals for cleaning up a mess. That would have to be done out of the goodness of the techs heart, and we have little to spare.

maverickfhs

Sorry, I meant if it's not a safety hazard or a problem then I just don't change it because I know some other person will pass it.

I can't blame them, at the end of the day we all have family or ourselves to take care of!
I can definitely imagine, I am with you on this one too!!!

maverickfhs

You're 'a shaman, a seer'.

ezone

Ya but if the rubber is all oil soaked and mushy it needs replaced. I just disagreed about it being a safety hazard.


IMHO The people who do it as a rule are a black eye on our industry as a whole.

maverickfhs

Sure, it's true for any industry and profession

Of course, I'll order the part tomorrow morning and will replace it this week. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy

maverickfhs

Happy Holidays everyone

So I just picked up similar box of 30 for dirt cheap~$3.3/filter, pict attached.
Now I am just curious about few things:

1- I have seen loads of threads and info about these A01(filtech) vs A02(Honeywell). Honestly, to me not being a race car driver it doesn't matter and I plan to change the oil at every 5K and filter at 10K miles. Should I be concerned about it?

2-Do filters have a shelf life, I mean can this box of 30 be sitting on shelf for a bit?

Thanks for all the help and guidance

ezone

The filters are, for all practical purposes, the same.

But 30 at once may be overkill. That would last a couple lifetimes for me LOL
Shelf life.....riiiight, like an old one is gonna curdle like milk a week after the expiration date.
Keep them dry so they don't rust?




Let me add one to this.....in my bay right now is a 14 CRV with a cheapo air filter..... the rubber gasket is too thin, it lets the filter move up and down in the box, during acceleration the filter will literally vibrate inside the housing and make an ungodly loud vibration noise.

maverickfhs

I can sense some 'sarcasm' here

Sure, I won't use them for 'fishing'

I am actually planning to resell some of them, since I could find cheapest by a box of 30! I am really surprised, local dealer was asking $10-$11/filter and I got these one dirt cheap.


Thanks, just by hearing all of your thoughts, I am going to stick to OEM moving forward, for every single thing!

Thanks again for the help

RIPSAW

A01(filtech) vs A02(Honeywell) The thru holes are smaller. A02 will flow more for those 8K rev limiter green light to red light runs.. Video on Youtube compareing them. I have both.. .30 filter =300,000 miles at your rat +190K already on clock...That's a lot of hope . I would just change it at 5K if you are going to change the oil that often. To some that is best. However, I went yearly on my 2005 CRV mostly around town. After over 100K, it's was still clean inside. Exhaust stem wear was less then .002 since they were just a little tight. Intakes were about that much loose. I had filters for my Toyota line 10 years oil. They were fine but I kept them in my closet clean and dry.

ezone

FYI, I have about 8 genuine Mazda parts oil filters left for my truck, they are probably 15 years old now. Cardboard boxes, no plastic wrappers, just a little surface rust is visible. I'm not worried about it so far, but that's me.

I'm as little biased, but then I solve problems for a living and I can't rely on aftermarket to consistently deliver OE quality in parts that are shipped from China in a plain white box.

IF you know exactly what you are looking for, OE/OEM parts and quality are available for many things through the aftermarket, but I can't afford the time and effort needed to hunt it down, for every part on every job.
MSRP in the US is only $7.30. You can see this on any of the online dealers parts catalogs.

Dealers don't have to adhere to MSRP, they are free to set their own pricing structures.......but if you know exactly what retail prices are supposed to be before you go to your local dealership, many will come down if you call them on it---- but others won't....

maverickfhs

Thanks for the video and all information.

Yeah, I am planning to change oil after every 5k-6k and filter at every other oil change. I am going to sell some of these filters, not going to use all. Maybe will save 10 and sell 20 or 15/15.

maverickfhs

I have some filter Puralotor ones from 3 or 4 years ago and that's it. But I see your point, am not going to worry about shelf life

I have plenty of time in my hands to research and all, but honestly some of these 'Chinese' parts aren't worth all the effort and hassle

Dealers in my area are NOT cheap, online is definitely the way to go.

On the same note, I removed that torque mount and replaced with a new OEM one.

But I don't see any problem with my old one, except some rubber cracking because of oil. Which I cleaned and kind of shaved it, have a look at the picts of my removed one, to me it looks just fine? What do you think EZ, it looks good or no?

I think that inspector didn't even know what that was and he just randomly picked it up

ezone

I can't see how much movement it has nor feel how mushy the oil soaked rubber is. I probably would not have been concerned, I think I said that before.

maverickfhs

Makes sense, thank you.

One more question on page 215 of user manual, maintenance main and sub items are present. Are there any mileage associated with it and can I access it and change those mileage or no?

Or above items are associated with engine oil life resetting %? Thanks

ezone

Maintenance minder is weird to most people. It was intended to make services more flexible and not all come at once, like the older (pre MM) cars had you do a major service every 30k.

You can do maintenance however you wish, some stuff may be overkill IMO and other stuff needs more frequency IMO.

Oil change intervals vary greatly depending on your driving conditions. I see them range anywhere from 4000 to beyond 10k miles. If the correct spec oil is used, it's not usually a problem.
If you use cheap/low quality/wrong spec oil, don't follow the minder.

The biggest issue is nobody is ever in the habit of checking their oil so if your engine consumes oil as it ages and you never check it, you're gonna have problems.

Personally, I have been changing my oil at 5k...and the minder has said anywhere from 15 to 50% life remaining when I change it.

The minder system is based entirely on a model, and that model depends on "normal" situations. It has no way to physically monitor any of the services it recommends. That's up to you to check and decide what's needed.


Item 1: Rotate tires usually goes along with oil changes, if the tires allow it.

Item 2: It will tell you to replace the engine and cabin filters around 25k.

Item 3: We (at our shop) recommend ATF services every 30k or more frequently. MM lets it go far too long on many cars IMO.

Thorough inspections along with every service. Leaks, lights, brake checks, suspension checks. etc. etc. etc.

There is no way for you to alter the mileage intervals the MM comes up with, that's all in the programming. Same for resetting individual items, you don't get that option.
Reset the oil change and you reset all the other items that showed up with it. (We at the dealer may or may not be able to reset individual maintenance items with the scanner-----not all of the cars allow this.)
IMO your best bet is to keep track of what services you do and make your own schedules.
I keep a little service log book in the glovebox of my car, and all the other family cars I take care of.

maverickfhs

Thanks again for a very well explanation and it makes perfect sense. That should be a 'sticky' somewhere.

I'll use my manual way of jotting down things in a notebook or an excel sheet.

Carbuff2

I like the MM for keeping track of oil changes. It DOES monitor cold running, stop n go traffic, etc so it will suggest sooner oil replacement in the winter, or a longer interval if you have driven the car for long periods on a vacation.

But after a while, the other stuff gets 'out of sync' and you had better use the notebook. Besides, some stuff (like brake fluid) gets replaced on a TIME not MILEAGE interval...

Same goes for little-used cars. IIRC Honda says to change oil at least once a year if the MM doesn't tell you to. But then, you have reset all the other indicators that you haven't serviced.

maverickfhs

Thanks, agreed and makes sense. I can still use MM as well as my good ole oil change sticker and a notebook to keep track of everything.

BTW, I noticed some light flickering in the clock/radio area, does it mean an open circuit somewhere or a fuse issue?

Thanks

ezone

Radio display backlight, or radio button illumination backlights?
Either case usually means an internal radio issue. Verify illumination sources at the radio wiring harnesses before condemning the radio.

maverickfhs

Display backlight of radio, which shows clock and time if radio is turned off.

Where's the power source or harness? Is it under the hood or?

Thanks.

ezone

By 'source' I meant the + and - for illumination, checked at the wiring in the back of the radio.

maverickfhs

What do I have to do to check it? From passenger side under the dash or?

ezone

Voltmeter, usually.

But if the lights behind the buttons work right, the missing display backlight will be an internal radio problem.

maverickfhs

Clock light works just fine, sometimes it just flicker.

But how can I access through voltmeter? I meant, how can I access the connections for radio. Aren't they hidden under the dashboard?

Thanks again.

ezone

You'd have to pull the radio out of the dash to access its wiring.

I assume the radio keeps playing and works fine even with the light flickering?

The radio can be sent in for repair, or maybe you know of someone local who specializes in OE factory radio repairs?