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will this work on a 2004 Honda Civic hybrid??

 
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I don't think the hybrid was available without AC, so you probably won't be able to find a belt easily. However, the concept is the same. You would just need to find a belt that is the right length to fit around the other pulleys, likely easier said than done. The only other pulley that needs to be turned on your Hybrid is the water pump, it has no alternator or power steering pump. Hope this helps

 
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Well what do you suggest I get

 
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Get some string and work out what length of belt you need.....

 
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Advance Auto sells an AC bypass pulley. It replaces the AC pump with just a pulley.

 
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For which car? On some cars that would be required depending on how the pulleys are arranged and what obstacles are in the way, but on a lot of cars like 7th gen Civics a shorter belt works fine and is much cheaper and easier.

 
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I have a 2003 Hybrid. To by-pass the AC compressor you must use "DriveWorks" (Advance Auto?) #398K4. Any Civic with an alternator will need a different belt. The Hybrid belt is not as wide. I did this job just this evening. Works great.

 
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Good to know, thank you for the information!

 
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will this also work with the 02 EX coupe model?

 
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This will work on any 01-05 Civic 1.7

 
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Since my a/c pulley bearing is toast if I get the non-a/c alternator belt it works even with a/c compressor still in car? I mean I don't even have to remove the compressor?

 
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...........read the thread

 
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Sorry, should have read more carefully. I'm going to remove the under hood relay then and leave compressor installed.

 
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I might be resurrecting a dead thread here but I just did this. The AC clutch either blew up or detached so badly it threw the belt. Naturally the car then overheated (no water pump drive) but it was undamaged. Using the standard belt until the AC is fixed was not possible. Bypassing the AC pulley using a shorter belt seemed possible. This is a 2003 Civic hybrid 1.3L and has NO alternator. This means the bypass belt will only be driving the water pump and the tensioner pulley.

A 1/2" wide, 40.5", 4 rib belt worked great. I had to use a long thin strip of wood or a yard stick to get the belt around the engine pulley. It is extremely tight and really took some time. I could only do it by removing the top tensioner pulley completely (just remove the tightening nut in the center of the pulley). I highly recommend removing the tensioner/idler pulley, getting the belt properly threaded, then slipping the idler back into the slack belt area and remounting it and tensioning the belt up normally. Quick and easy.

Dayco 5040405:
Rib Profile Straight Rib
Metric Part 4PK1030
Effective Length (in) 40.55
Top Width (in) 0.54
Thickness 0.17
No. of Ribs 4
Rib Depth Standard
Compound EPDM, Aramid Reinforced
Backside Material Rubber


https://www.daycoproducts.com/part?c...mber%3D5040405

 
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This thread was specific to the non-hybrid 1.7L engine. The water pump is driven off the timing belt there, A/C compressor and alternator are driven off the same belt and can easily be bypassed. Good info on the hybrid though!

 
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I also just did this as AC pulley was making worse and worse sound till eventually bogging down engine. Went to Oreilleys and asked for 5040405 belt or other mentioned driveworks belt. Both had the same reference 40.4" long belt. Also picked up a new tensioner pulley, although the newer one didn't seem any better, plus it was heavier.
Removing the belt was a pain just because I'm used to finding a torque tensioner. The instructions in #2 response in this thread helped: https://electricvehicleforums.com/fo...uctions-27528/
To install new belt I had to go through wheel well to get belt around engine pulley (helps to have long arms...).

I am not sure if I should remove relay "D" in from earlier response. I figure it can't hurt to take it out.

I ordered new AC magnetic clutch pulley assembly on ebay and snap-ring pliers on amazon per this vid: Looks like a tough job to avoid replacing A/C but I'll give it a shot next weekend.

 
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I’m here to ask more stupid questions… so I’m going to get the shorter belt to bypass the a/c compressor, but could I just unbolt the compressor from the engine entirely and leave it out? Or would that cause issues with sensors..

 
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Depends what your goals are. If you plan to fix the AC eventually, leave the compressor in place. You don't want the system open to the atmosphere. If you are planning on selling the car soon, I'd leave it on too so you don't deter potential buyers hoping to fix it and have working AC.

If you don't care about the AC ever working again and want to remove as much weight as possible, feel free to take out the AC compressor or even the entire system, it won't cause any problems. Just be aware that the system is under pressure and you are supposed to have a shop suck out all the refrigerant before disconnecting the lines if any refrigerant is left so it doesn't pollute the air even though some "compressed air" is made out of the exact same chemical. There are illegal backyard workarounds to release the refrigerant, but whatever you do, DO NOT disconnect any of the lines unless you are sure that all the refrigerant is gone, otherwise you could seriously hurt yourself.

 
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I actually bought the car with no condenser so the compressor lines were already just ran to nothing so I’m assuming the lines are already depressurized, I’m putting another D17 for the time being until I can afford to K-Swap it and I don’t even plan on using the A/C. So keeping it out is my plan, I just wanted to make sure I wouldn’t run into any issues, Thank you


Also completely unrelated, just a response to the thread as a whole I saw a few reply’s saying the DX came with no A/C but I have two 04” DX Value Package with crank windows and no power locks and they both have A/C 🤔

 
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You won't have any problems then, there's not any pressure in the system if it's missing the condenser. I'd take the entire system out if I wasn't going to be using it to save the weight and remove clutter from the engine bay, but there's no harm in leaving the compressor in either.

If you take out the lines going to through the firewall, I'd get the rubber plug the non AC equipped Civics came with to plug the hole in the firewall. I don't remember the part number, but I can look it up for you when I get back home if you have trouble finding it.

 
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same with a 2005 LX?

 
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.... its the same car

 
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The pulley bearing isn't all that hard to change and doesn't require letting the freon out. the compressor has to be unbolted s oit'll hang out where the clutch can be removed. the bearing is about $10. If it seized very badly the nose on the compressor where it rides may been damaged and then you have to have it all. I've had good luck with wreaking yard replacements. Long as the yard take it off a working unit that's still changed tape over the openings to keep air and dirt out. Put on right away and vacuum the system and put in new Freon. all the ones I did worked. (I'm a pro)