no crank, no start, no horn.
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no crank, no start, no horn.
Hi everyone I'm Trace. I have me a 2002 civic D17A2 manual. Yesterday morning I woke up and was introduced with this issue where I have no horn, no click, no crank no at all coming from my car.
Check battery it shows 12.5v battery is new anyway. Check ever fuse in engine bay. The black once supposed to be relays, I pulled them and shake them but no sound. Look at the others that has clear top on them and they are no signs of chop on the wirings..
Pull the important fuses inside the car under the steering but no signs of chop fuses either.
What could be my issue here? I used to hear clicks coming from those relays underneath the glove box no there's no sound anywhere. I appreciate someones help here because this is my only transportation around.
Check battery it shows 12.5v battery is new anyway. Check ever fuse in engine bay. The black once supposed to be relays, I pulled them and shake them but no sound. Look at the others that has clear top on them and they are no signs of chop on the wirings..
Pull the important fuses inside the car under the steering but no signs of chop fuses either.
What could be my issue here? I used to hear clicks coming from those relays underneath the glove box no there's no sound anywhere. I appreciate someones help here because this is my only transportation around.
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What else can you suggest to me.?
Thread Starter
Registered!!
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 520
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Rep Power: 0 Re: no crank, no start, no horn.
It couldn't be ignition switch. There no light in the dash. The key doesn't make any sound. The green key light doesn't show up in the dash.
IT couldn't be any of the above you mentioned.
the battery test read 12.5V so it's good.
I check fuses, relay and everything read. Not sure what to think next.
IT couldn't be any of the above you mentioned.
the battery test read 12.5V so it's good.
I check fuses, relay and everything read. Not sure what to think next.
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Re: no crank, no start, no horn.
It could absolutely be the ignition switch. Not the immobilizer but the actual ignition.
You still need to actually measure battery voltage at the fuse. For instance, if you physically look at fuse 2 in the under hood box it could check out just fine. But, electrically it comes after fuse 19 (the big 80A). So, the 80A could be blown.
12.5V does not guarantee the battery is good. A load test would confirm the battery is good. You can somewhat mimic this by measuring battery voltage while attempting to start.
Does anything turn on at all? Dome lights when a door is opened? Headlights? Hazards?
You still need to actually measure battery voltage at the fuse. For instance, if you physically look at fuse 2 in the under hood box it could check out just fine. But, electrically it comes after fuse 19 (the big 80A). So, the 80A could be blown.
12.5V does not guarantee the battery is good. A load test would confirm the battery is good. You can somewhat mimic this by measuring battery voltage while attempting to start.
Does anything turn on at all? Dome lights when a door is opened? Headlights? Hazards?
"Marge, anyone could miss Canada! All tucked away down there."
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From: Barrie, ON Canada
Rep Power: 222 Re: no crank, no start, no horn.
It could absolutely be the ignition switch. Not the immobilizer but the actual ignition.
You still need to actually measure battery voltage at the fuse. For instance, if you physically look at fuse 2 in the under hood box it could check out just fine. But, electrically it comes after fuse 19 (the big 80A). So, the 80A could be blown.
12.5V does not guarantee the battery is good. A load test would confirm the battery is good. You can somewhat mimic this by measuring battery voltage while attempting to start.
Does anything turn on at all? Dome lights when a door is opened? Headlights? Hazards?
You still need to actually measure battery voltage at the fuse. For instance, if you physically look at fuse 2 in the under hood box it could check out just fine. But, electrically it comes after fuse 19 (the big 80A). So, the 80A could be blown.
12.5V does not guarantee the battery is good. A load test would confirm the battery is good. You can somewhat mimic this by measuring battery voltage while attempting to start.
Does anything turn on at all? Dome lights when a door is opened? Headlights? Hazards?
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