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I have an 02 civic EX, manual, and it cranks but doesn't start. I have an obd2 reader and it doesn't show any codes, I've also tried the paperclip method to get codes and still nothing.
I replaced the spark plugs and it still wouldn't start, so I tested the connector for the ignition coils with a multimeter and they all show about 4.5 volts.
The fuses are all good, and both main relays are good too(tested them with the car battery and a multimeter).
I took the oil cap off and had someone crank the engine while I look for movement, I could only see 2 rocker arms and one of them wasn't moving as much as the other. maybe the crankshaft or cam sensor is off? how do I test for that?
any help would be greatly appreciated, I've been troubleshooting for weeks now.
Did you wake up and it just wouldn’t start? Check timing? Crack open the fuel rail and see if fuel comes out when the key is set position 2.
Do you have a flashing green key on the instrument cluster?
yup, woke up on a hot day and it wouldn't start, it ran fine the night before. besides looking for movement inside the block, how would I further check the timing?
I'll look for fuel and the green key light tomorrow, thanks!
yup, woke up on a hot day and it wouldn't start, it ran fine the night before. besides looking for movement inside the block, how would I further check the timing?
I'll look for fuel and the green key light tomorrow, thanks!
I checked the fuel line and it has pressure, I'm thinking it has something to do with the spark/ignition. any ideas on how to test the ignition system?
You can unplug each each sparkplug one by one and ground the plugs while you crank the car, you'll see the plug sparking. The easiest way is to get a inline ignition tester,its basically a light bulb that hooks up between the coil boot and the spark plug and lights up to tell you the ignition is good for each cylinder
have you checked the timing mark to make sure timing belt hasn't skipped a tooth?
Last edited by Alfie17; Jul 22, 2018 at 11:19 PM.
Reason: Adding question
You can unplug each each sparkplug one by one and ground the plugs while you crank the car, you'll see the plug sparking. The easiest way is to get a inline ignition tester,its basically a light bulb that hooks up between the coil boot and the spark plug and lights up to tell you the ignition is good for each cylinder
have you checked the timing mark to make sure timing belt hasn't skipped a tooth?
I bought a spark tester, and just tested all 4 plugs and none of them spark. I tried following the wires coming out of the coils/plugs but I can't see what's next in line to test. any ideas on what to look for next?
as for the timing belt check, all I've done is open the oil cap and look at the rocker arms while someone cranks the engine. and I did see movement in the arms. is that a good enough test or is there another way?
It's pretty simple but it's time consuming just to check the timing marks.
you'll have to remove the valve cover (you can use this video https://youtu.be/XkkWhrr9kAo)
then you'll have to remove the upper timing belt cover (pic 1)
then you'll have to jack up the car, remove driver side wheel.
there's a spot on the wheel well cover where you can stick a 19mm socket straight to the crank bolt.
spin the crank (counterclockwise like if your trying to remove the bolt) make sure the camshaft markings are line up
look from the top at the crank pointers and make sure those are lined up too.
last week my car timing belts jumped a tooth, and it wouldn't start just like what you're describing
It's pretty simple but it's time consuming just to check the timing marks.
you'll have to remove the valve cover (you can use this video https://youtu.be/XkkWhrr9kAo)
then you'll have to remove the upper timing belt cover (pic 1)
then you'll have to jack up the car, remove driver side wheel.
there's a spot on the wheel well cover where you can stick a 19mm socket straight to the crank bolt.
spin the crank (counterclockwise like if your trying to remove the bolt) make sure the camshaft markings are line up
look from the top at the crank pointers and make sure those are lined up too.
last week my car timing belts jumped a tooth, and it wouldn't start just like what you're describing
ah, the dreaded valve cover removal lol. that's really good info though, thanks again for the help! I'll have to crack open the engine this weekend. just out of curiosity, did you notice if you had a no spark issue before you checked the timing?
I actually didnt get that far into testing the spark. When my car wouldnt start, i checked the battery and alternator (both were good). Then i realized i could start the car if i pressed the gas pedal (u can try that see if itll start but itll die as soon as you release the gas).
The next thing i did was check the crankshaft position sensor (this is what tells the cars computer if the timing belt has slipped) you can reach from the top and unplug the harness to this sensor, then try to start the car (my car started with this sensor unplugged) thats why i figured it was either a bad sensor or the timing had jumped.
this is the sensor you want to disconnect, you dont have to remove anything, you can just reach it from the top and the sensor is hiding behind that big crank pulley. If you car starts with this sensor disconnected then you probably have a timing problem. Leave the CAM sensor plugged in for now (thats the one in the upper timing cover)
Last edited by Alfie17; Jul 26, 2018 at 08:48 AM.
Reason: adding info
I actually didnt get that far into testing the spark. When my car wouldnt start, i checked the battery and alternator (both were good). Then i realized i could start the car if i pressed the gas pedal (u can try that see if itll start but itll die as soon as you release the gas).
The next thing i did was check the crankshaft position sensor (this is what tells the cars computer if the timing belt has slipped) you can reach from the top and unplug the harness to this sensor, then try to start the car (my car started with this sensor unplugged) thats why i figured it was either a bad sensor or the timing had jumped.
this is the sensor you want to disconnect, you dont have to remove anything, you can just reach it from the top and the sensor is hiding behind that big crank pulley. If you car starts with this sensor disconnected then you probably have a timing problem. Leave the CAM sensor plugged in for now (thats the one in the upper timing cover)
Okay, I ended up replacing the timing belt, water pump, cam AND crank sensors. after that it still wouldn't start, same symptoms as before.
I was told it was the ignition switch(after testing the main relay) so I just replaced the ignition switch.
Now after installing the new ignition, I put the new key in and turn it to the second click, but I dont see a green light flashing. Isn't it supposed to be flashing since its a new key/ignition? Could this be a sign of the main computer being faulty?
EDIT: I have not had the new keys programmed yet, which tells me the car should be showing that green flashing key light
Well you went from one problem keeping your car from working to potentially half a dozen more now.
Month ago you were going to verify you had the flashing green icon, did you then and not now?
Does your computer communicate with a OBI reader stil.
You didn’t need to replace your lock and keys and reprogram. the ignition switch itself comes off the other side lock assembly. Honda groups it a steering switch as it’s in that area.
Well you went from one problem keeping your car from working to potentially half a dozen more now.
Month ago you were going to verify you had the flashing green icon, did you then and not now?
Does your computer communicate with a OBI reader stil.
You didn’t need to replace your lock and keys and reprogram. the ignition switch itself comes off the other side lock assembly. Honda groups it a steering switch as it’s in that area.
The green key wasn't flashing back then either.
Yes, still communicates with the OBD reader. no codes though. it shows data about the car, but no codes.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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Re: crank no start, not showing any codes
Your new ignition switch/column lock assembly did not come with an immobilizer unit attached?
Remove your original immobi ring from the original lock and plug it in, see if that makes the green light work?
