2001 won't start in the cold
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2001 won't start in the cold
Well, I'm stumped.
2001 with 205k on it. Always super reliable in all kinds of weather.
Suddenly it refuses to start below freezing. It cranks fine but sounds "uneven" when cranking. It starts and runs fine above freezing. If it is close to 32 degrees I can floor the gas and get it running.
It threw a p0113 once so I checked the iat sensor. 5 volts at the connection. Replaced the intake sensor with a known good one.
2001 with 205k on it. Always super reliable in all kinds of weather.
Suddenly it refuses to start below freezing. It cranks fine but sounds "uneven" when cranking. It starts and runs fine above freezing. If it is close to 32 degrees I can floor the gas and get it running.
It threw a p0113 once so I checked the iat sensor. 5 volts at the connection. Replaced the intake sensor with a known good one.
Anyone run into this problem?
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"Marge, anyone could miss Canada! All tucked away down there."
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Re: 2001 won't start in the cold
Hmm, that's not even that cold for up where I am. (My girlfriend's car was having a hell of time starting below -13F, put gas line antifreeze in every time she fills up and no problems now)
So when it's cranking it tries to start, a couple of the cylinders kind of "pop"?
IAC sticking? give it a couple light smacks with a chunk of wood
Verified all the cylinder have good spark?
All the injectors pulsing?
Have you tried ether?
So when it's cranking it tries to start, a couple of the cylinders kind of "pop"?
IAC sticking? give it a couple light smacks with a chunk of wood
Verified all the cylinder have good spark?
All the injectors pulsing?
Have you tried ether?
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 517 Re: 2001 won't start in the cold
Cranks uneven'?
Does it wet the plugs at that time?
How about ECT accuracy check on a scanner data list?
I might wonder about a compression test on a effin cold engine, and maybe a valve lash check/adjust
Does it wet the plugs at that time?
How about ECT accuracy check on a scanner data list?
I might wonder about a compression test on a effin cold engine, and maybe a valve lash check/adjust
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Hmm, that's not even that cold for up where I am. (My girlfriend's car was having a hell of time starting below -13F, put gas line antifreeze in every time she fills up and no problems now)
So when it's cranking it tries to start, a couple of the cylinders kind of "pop"?
IAC sticking? give it a couple light smacks with a chunk of wood
Verified all the cylinder have good spark?
All the injectors pulsing?
Have you tried ether?
So when it's cranking it tries to start, a couple of the cylinders kind of "pop"?
IAC sticking? give it a couple light smacks with a chunk of wood
Verified all the cylinder have good spark?
All the injectors pulsing?
Have you tried ether?
I have 4 good sparks.It's not getting fuel.Now just today since it was near 32 I went to give it a try. It would not start unless I floored the gas pedal. It fired up ran smooth. Drove it around.Then.....CEL pops up.P0113I have swapped the IAT sensor with a known good one. (I have two civics) I also bought a new one. I back probed at the connector and got 4.99 volts.Bizarre.
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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IAT is a TWO wire sensor. What do you measure on the second wire? (it should be a ground)
Did you mangle the terminals trying to test it, now it has a poor connection?
Got a scanner that shows a data list? What does your IAT and ECT show in the data list?
Did you mangle the terminals trying to test it, now it has a poor connection?
Got a scanner that shows a data list? What does your IAT and ECT show in the data list?
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Voltage between the two wires is 4.99.Measured with the plug disconnected and also connected.Negative on the mangling.I am scanning with a simple OBD2 so only codes.
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Pulling the plug while the key is on will throw the CEL.
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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Ok then that sounds like wiring for IAT is ok at the moment you checked it----but it still sets fault code for a reason.
a scanner that can show live data might reveal much useful information.
A scanner that can record data for playback later is sometimes even better for intermittent failures.
If you have a scanner that displays live data, it would probably also display freeze frame data so we can find out what the IAT sensor read when it set the fault code.
If it read -40* at the time of failure, it was open circuit and you can chase the problem one way....but if it read +256* at the time of failure, then you need to go a different direction with diagnosis.
A sensor that is open or short circuit, or beyond its expected operating range can cause a fault code, as you probably know.
A skewed or bad sensor can read very wrong and can cause major upset--- but as long as it is within plausible range it won't necessarily code. The best way to find this sort of problem IMO is use a good scanner (or app) to see what the PCM sees.
IAT is a minor input (has minimal influence) for determining fuel injection calculations, but
ECT is a major input--so if it is skewed it can cause major fuel errors.
If ECT flakes out and falsely reports the temp is -38* when it's really +30*, the computer is gonna try to make the injectors squirt far too much gasoline and flood the engine....and you kicking the gas pedal to the floor might put it in clear flood mode and get it started.
Same skew deal goes for TPS, if its voltage goes high enough it might stop fuel injection during cranking without setting any code.
a scanner that can show live data might reveal much useful information.
A scanner that can record data for playback later is sometimes even better for intermittent failures.
If you have a scanner that displays live data, it would probably also display freeze frame data so we can find out what the IAT sensor read when it set the fault code.
If it read -40* at the time of failure, it was open circuit and you can chase the problem one way....but if it read +256* at the time of failure, then you need to go a different direction with diagnosis.
A sensor that is open or short circuit, or beyond its expected operating range can cause a fault code, as you probably know.
A skewed or bad sensor can read very wrong and can cause major upset--- but as long as it is within plausible range it won't necessarily code. The best way to find this sort of problem IMO is use a good scanner (or app) to see what the PCM sees.
IAT is a minor input (has minimal influence) for determining fuel injection calculations, but
ECT is a major input--so if it is skewed it can cause major fuel errors.
If ECT flakes out and falsely reports the temp is -38* when it's really +30*, the computer is gonna try to make the injectors squirt far too much gasoline and flood the engine....and you kicking the gas pedal to the floor might put it in clear flood mode and get it started.
Same skew deal goes for TPS, if its voltage goes high enough it might stop fuel injection during cranking without setting any code.
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Ok then that sounds like wiring for IAT is ok at the moment you checked it----but it still sets fault code for a reason.
a scanner that can show live data might reveal much useful information.
A scanner that can record data for playback later is sometimes even better for intermittent failures.
If you have a scanner that displays live data, it would probably also display freeze frame data so we can find out what the IAT sensor read when it set the fault code.
If it read -40* at the time of failure, it was open circuit and you can chase the problem one way....but if it read +256* at the time of failure, then you need to go a different direction with diagnosis.
A sensor that is open or short circuit, or beyond its expected operating range can cause a fault code, as you probably know.
A skewed or bad sensor can read very wrong and can cause major upset--- but as long as it is within plausible range it won't necessarily code. The best way to find this sort of problem IMO is use a good scanner (or app) to see what the PCM sees.
IAT is a minor input (has minimal influence) for determining fuel injection calculations, but
ECT is a major input--so if it is skewed it can cause major fuel errors.
If ECT flakes out and falsely reports the temp is -38* when it's really +30*, the computer is gonna try to make the injectors squirt far too much gasoline and flood the engine....and you kicking the gas pedal to the floor might put it in clear flood mode and get it started.
Same skew deal goes for TPS, if its voltage goes high enough it might stop fuel injection during cranking without setting any code.
a scanner that can show live data might reveal much useful information.
A scanner that can record data for playback later is sometimes even better for intermittent failures.
If you have a scanner that displays live data, it would probably also display freeze frame data so we can find out what the IAT sensor read when it set the fault code.
If it read -40* at the time of failure, it was open circuit and you can chase the problem one way....but if it read +256* at the time of failure, then you need to go a different direction with diagnosis.
A sensor that is open or short circuit, or beyond its expected operating range can cause a fault code, as you probably know.
A skewed or bad sensor can read very wrong and can cause major upset--- but as long as it is within plausible range it won't necessarily code. The best way to find this sort of problem IMO is use a good scanner (or app) to see what the PCM sees.
IAT is a minor input (has minimal influence) for determining fuel injection calculations, but
ECT is a major input--so if it is skewed it can cause major fuel errors.
If ECT flakes out and falsely reports the temp is -38* when it's really +30*, the computer is gonna try to make the injectors squirt far too much gasoline and flood the engine....and you kicking the gas pedal to the floor might put it in clear flood mode and get it started.
Same skew deal goes for TPS, if its voltage goes high enough it might stop fuel injection during cranking without setting any code.
Thanks for your reply. I appreciate it.I'll have to get the old girl down to the shop for a better scan.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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I was just coming up with examples....
You can score some scanner units for fairly reasonable prices at the parts store, walmart, sears, etc.
You can pick up a bluetooth dongle and phone app very cheap too (google 'torque app') several people on the forum use this
You can score some scanner units for fairly reasonable prices at the parts store, walmart, sears, etc.
You can pick up a bluetooth dongle and phone app very cheap too (google 'torque app') several people on the forum use this
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Excellent.I'll return with some answers.
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Well, I'm stumped.
2001 with 205k on it. Always super reliable in all kinds of weather.
Suddenly it refuses to start below freezing. It cranks fine but sounds "uneven" when cranking. It starts and runs fine above freezing. If it is close to 32 degrees I can floor the gas and get it running.
It threw a p0113 once so I checked the iat sensor. 5 volts at the connection. Replaced the intake sensor with a known good one.
2001 with 205k on it. Always super reliable in all kinds of weather.
Suddenly it refuses to start below freezing. It cranks fine but sounds "uneven" when cranking. It starts and runs fine above freezing. If it is close to 32 degrees I can floor the gas and get it running.
It threw a p0113 once so I checked the iat sensor. 5 volts at the connection. Replaced the intake sensor with a known good one.
Anyone run into this problem?
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