Rep Power: 0

Honda Civic 2001 EX

Hi. Sorry for another question, my searches have not helped me much.

Basically I just changed the battery after it died and was not being used for some days waiting on a part.

The new battery seems ok, but the car won't start. Googling around I found stuff on "valet" mode, anti-theft mode, and some routines that involve either codes or simple manual tricks to start it, but not much clear info to me.

I only have a beeping red light above the dash, some user suggested that I have an alarm put in by the dealer, with a fob that looks like this:



The key turns, and the light all seem to work, and the radio (not orginal but and aftermarket stereo) seem fine, but there simply isn't a start. Only the alarm goes off when I close the door somewhat hard, but the keys in the fob don't work (they used to work), so I put in a new CR2025 battery in the fob (last one died out), but the keys don't work.


Frankly I don't mind having no alarm, but would appreciate any tips on how to start it.

PS: I wasn't making a huge issue about this these days, since I'm not really using my car.

 
Rep Power: 518

You have the red LED in the center of the top steering column cover?


Link to the user manual for the dealer added security system.

http://www.handa-accessories.com/civ...ivsecurity.pdf

Found it at http://www.justanswer.com/honda/1id9...the-doors.html


You say "won't start", but does that mean the starter is or is not working?
If the green key symbol is flashing while you crank it, that's a different problem.

 
Rep Power: 0

Thank you! I went through there before asking.

No key symbol flashing, and I doubt it would be the starter since the car was working perfectly fine until the battery drained completely because of this: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ts-always.html

I tried to jump start it (read I shouldn't do this after), and then just went ahead for a new battery.

Now when I turn the key on II, I seem to have a working battery, the regular signs that I was used to see show up:




But I hear a weird sound, as if it was trying to do or find something. I recorded it here:

[code]http://vocaroo.com/i/s0Y2sImdmwUA[/code]

It happens after I turn the key into II, after second 0:06. It's quiet, but it sound like a soft mechanical sound struggling... After going back to I, and back to II again, that sound never appeared again.

When I turn to III, there are no sounds at all, not even from the engine.


I read here something about a fuse, with a similar problem, but he didn't specify much:

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...mobilizer.html



Also, if I shut down the door a little hard, a very noisy continuous beep from the alarm goes off for 2 seconds, but the fob seems to have no effect.

 
Rep Power: 518

Failed to link, and I can't hear anything at all in the sound clip.
Does the starter crank the engine or not?
Does the dash go dark, all electrical power is lost?

 
Rep Power: 0

Sorry for late response.


No, there is no crank on III, or any sounds from the starter.

The lights on the dash remain lit on III and back to II.

Thanks for your patience.

 
Rep Power: 518

You probably have a simple wiring or starter issue then.

First suspect is battery cables.
Do you have any non-original cable ends


These suck. The cables come loose and may not be able to carry power when loaded. Or only one of the cables might have a bad connection once in a while, causing much hair pulling. Or corrosion left over from the original failure finally eats its way and causes a bad connection.

Same goes for those gold colored cable ends that all the cool kids put on to go with their amps and subs.





Figuring out why it won't crank is really a matter of knowing that particular system, and some checks that I might do with a plain old light bulb type test light. Starter must have 2 hots and ground during operation. You, a test light and a helper could have that much checked in 30 seconds.

I did not check this article, but it looked pretty: http://easyautodiagnostics.com/bad_s...ar_tests_1.php

 
Rep Power: 0

Thank you, I'll report soon as I get the multimiter and some help.


Quick question: Why rule out the anti-theft feature first? Is it less likely in this case after a drained out and new battery replacement?
I ask because of this example, and similar others I read: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...mobilizer.html

 
Rep Power: 518

I already ruled that out because I mentioned this

and you replied with this answer:


SO I assume the immobilizer is not the issue.

The green key symbol still flashes about 5 times after you shut the key off though, correct?

=========

Does the car have additional aftermarket antitheft goodies causing the problem?
I don't know and I don't care (yet), I figure out during the 30 second test light checks if I need to bother looking.
The test light checks mentioned earlier will answer if that is even an issue, once you understand what it is doing.

 
Rep Power: 0

Correct, the green key symbol only flashes after I turn off with the key, but doesn't appear when I crank it.

The battery fuse (80A) doesn't seem to be bad either since the lights on the dash don't appear at all before or after cranking it if I remove it (just to show how little I know about all this beyond just changing oil, spark plugs, air filter, and little maintenance stuff).
Battery cables are original, but look pretty clean with no rust or corrosion on them.


The high beam, and all lights seem to work fine with the new battery, and they don't dim down or anything unusual.

I have yet to test the starter since I'm scared of doing something wrong, seeing how it's a common culprit in these cases (bad connections TO the starter as well) after watching some videos. This one mechanic fixed it by just tapping the starter with a hammer a bit, but I don't want to do stuff like that and take my time going through all possibilities (having no garage and short time at night to work on this is a bummer).


Will let you know how the test go as soon as I can.


Thanks so much again for your patience.

 
Rep Power: 518

A hammer check is super quick too. Have someone hold the key twisted to the CRANK position, while you tap on the starter. If it begins cranking, then it needs a starter (usually just the solenoid contacts are bad if this works, but that's more testing).

Hammer check is NOT a FIX, it is only a check. If you don't actually fix the problem, it will come back later on.... and soon.

DON'T beat the crap out of it. You can damage the starter if you hit hard enough to bend metal.

I do the hammer check AFTER using the test light.....usually....unless I'm out in the parking lot with no other tools available. Then I'll beat on it.

 
Rep Power: 0

I hate it when you progress through a series of problem-solving questions, then the guy who posted the question never provides final response on what the problem or the solution was.

People took time to help and offer insights, then not enough courtesy to report back. Bad form.

 
Rep Power: 0

I Suspect the ignition relay as he mentioned clicking and mechanical noise

im no mechanic by no means so dont rake my words for it

 
Rep Power: 0

Idk if it will help or pertain to you. If your car is a manual transmission there is a little button that runs up the clutch pedal (brake pedal has similar switch) this switch is depressed when you press the clutch in. If the little silicone do dad has popped out you'll need to cover it with something. I used a Penney and a piece of duck tape if this is not depressed the car will not start. Best of luck BCL