Rep Power: 0

Last week I did a valve adjustment. It’s been starting and driving great all week. Today my civic started sputtering on startup. After idling for about a minute it runs fine. I set intake to .20mm and exhaust to .25mm but I didn’t realize there was timing marks on the back of the cam to find TDC of each cylinder. I followed firing order 1-3-4-2 as I adjusted and rotated engine counter clockwise.

I’m now getting two DTC

P0301 - cyl 1 misfire
P1399 - random misfire detected

I replaced cap/rotor and plugs/wires and reset codes. Sputtering on startup still happens, Codes come back.

Is it possible I didn’t do adjustment correct last week and why now all of a sudden is it acting up?

 
Rep Power: 223

It would definitely be worth double checking.

 
Rep Power: 0

just double checked it. I had 1 or 2 on the exhaust side that were slightly out of spec. Adjusted and put it all back together.

Idk if I just found the issue as I’m typing this but the idler pulley going to the ac compressor fell off. If I crank with ac turned off it starts no problem.

I must have forgotten to tighten down the pulley when I replaced the engine 😆

 
Rep Power: 221

That happens sometimes

 
Rep Power: 0

ok so here’s the update. Pulley is back on and tightened this time. I reset the engine light but it came back right away after starting up for a 2nd time. I also have white smoke coming out of the tailpipe.

 
Rep Power: 221

White smoke isnt good. Usually means headgasket problems

 
Rep Power: 0

I have a compression tester. Should I go for both compression test and leak down test? Each Cylinder needs to be in TDC for leak down correct?

 
Rep Power: 366

this is the surest way to test for headgasket breaches, simple and effective.

 
Rep Power: 0

thank you for the post. I’ll try to get this done tomorrow.

 
Rep Power: 0

compression test results


Dry

• Cyl 1 - 200
• Cyl 2 - 170
• Cyl 3 - 170
• Cyl 4 - 190

Wet

• Cyl 1 - 210
• Cyl 2 - 210
• Cyl 3 - 205
• Cyl 4 - 205

leak down test is next. Just gotta find my compressor

 
Rep Power: 221

Comp looks good

 
Rep Power: 0

Just did cylinder 2. Blowing air into cylinder 1 and air out top of radiator. Trying to get a video for your viewing pleasure.

 
Rep Power: 221

Booo
isn't this your new used engine?

 
Rep Power: 0

yep. Fresh from the machine shop

 
Rep Power: 221

Call them and give them hell. Especially with what happened with the valves

 
Rep Power: 0

gonna drive it up to them and drop it off

 
Rep Power: 0

https://youtube.com/shorts/MIzIurDnXO8?feature=share

 
Rep Power: 366

woah, that is... huge leak...

 
Rep Power: 0

I’m sure you can understand the frustration. The engine was rebuilt top to bottom and was supposed to be ready to drop in without issues.

they failed to do the valve adjustment

they lost one on my nuts that holds down the valve screw

lost two oil pump bolts causing huge oil leak

head gasket has failed after 300 miles in short trips no heavy acceleration or high rpm

 
Rep Power: 223

A literal fountain of coolant out the top of the radiator.

 
Rep Power: 0

I brought the civic to the shop that rebuilt the motor and they didn’t want to believe me. Glad I had proof of compression test and leak down test before showing up. After the owner saw the video of coolant fountain he still had to take a look. He couldn’t believe that was the same rebuilt motor that came out of HIS shop. Also showed him the missed oil pump bolts and valve adjustment nut. He hinted that it was one of his newer mechanics in the shop and that they will be having a serious talk about what happened here.

he promised the engine will be fixed free of charge or they will find me another engine, rebuilt that will work.

 
Rep Power: 221

Glad to hear that they're willing to make things right

 
Rep Power: 0

They came back after looking at it and said that most likely the block is warped. Recommend resurfacing block and head and then using a different head gasket that is thicker instead of the MLS gasket. Thoughts?

 
Rep Power: 221

If they're covering the cost let them go nuts

 
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I guess my question was leaning more towards, would this be the appropriate or acceptable repair?

just finished pulling the engine. Much quicker than pulling the transmission too 😆. Only took 2.5 hours this time.

Edit: oh I forgot to mention that for the warranty they want me to pull the engine and drop it off. Idk if that seems fair but they said it’s because they are too busy to remove the engine themselves?

 
Rep Power: 221

As long as they're giving you warranty thats fine

 
Rep Power: 366

it's uncommon to see the block needing milling on these cars, really...

 
Rep Power: 0

The engine was just dropped off. They said they will check for any warping and resurface if needed. Thank you for that into btw. What are your thoughts on using an oversized head gasket? Also I requested that I see the head and block myself before they put it all back
together. I would like to take a machinist ruler and feeler gauge myself and see how flat the surface really is or is not.

 
Rep Power: 221

Pretty sure it was warped on my 2000, did the head + gasket, was still overheating and pushing exhaust out the rad. So i changed the engine

 
Rep Power: 0

Sorry if I have been asking a lot of questions. I am a bit frustrated with this engine and I’m just trying to get the best possible resolution here. I appreciate all the input and all the help with everything so far.