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Right now both driver and passenger windows won't go down. Sometimes they will but rarely. It's a recent problem. Maybe this has nothing to do with it but the other day it felt like the AC wasn't putting out cold air. That as the 1st time it did that. Later after the car was off for a bit the AC worked normally (and still does) and I thought to check the windows and they worked too. Today the windows don't go down. Any ideas on what might be the problem and although I'm not experienced if I can check some things myself. Thanks.

 
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common issue.
check the wiring at the drivers' door hinges, pull the rubber grommet there and see if wires are damaged

 
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That looks like something I can do. I do remember once, when the windows first started having problems, that I slammed the door again and it started working. That only helped that one time though. Thanks.

 
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Probably broken wires as stated earlier

 
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Pro tip: slow mo is good
Hold window switch on with one hand. keep holding it and Slowly swing door from fully open to closed to open a few times.
pay close attention
If that window shows any hint of activity/movement/noise/life while swinging that door, its because bare ends of broken wire(s) in the hinge area can momentarily touch and/or separate as the wire bundle flexes

wiring is fun!

 
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I had same experience with slow up and down movement...much slower going up. I replaced both motor/regulators and there was little change. I then replaced the rubber and bam! It worked like new. The front rubber is very easy to replace.

 
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Both windows started working again one day but the next day not. I looked at that grommet area and pushed around on it but nothing changed. It's was kind of hard to get at. What's the best way? Thanks.

 
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OK. I'll be trying this. Thanks.

 
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I've replaced the motor twice on the passenger side in the last 10 years. Not sure about the quality of the repairs though. The 2nd time, right after the repair, it barely made it up so I brought it back. They then replaced the rubber which made it OK although still slower than the drivers side.So I suspect the bad, misaligned rubber was the cause all along for the problems in the past. The driver's side window hasn't had any problems until now. Never had any problems with the AC but it seemed like once again it wasn't cooling right. The next time it was OK. So I wonder if there's some connection between the two problems?

 
Rep Power: 222

You need to peel the grommet back and look at the wires

 
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The cooling is a different issue. My 98 also had a recent cooling issue that ended up being a failing expansion valve. I replaced the exp valve, flushed the Evap and the condensor, and replaced the drier, and bam! Now my A/C is ice cold for over a week now. It cost me $215 total.
If you’re still having window issues, but your door locks work fine, I’d suggest temporarily jumping the window motor ground to the door lock ground. If that fixes the issue then Colin is correct. Otherwise, my money is still on the window rubber.

 
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Your way of testing worked! As I moved the door with the window button pressed it went down and then stopped and then when I put it in a different position it went back up. Don't know if I'm capable of fixing it myself but it narrows it down for someone who does. I can solder but it would seem like the door might have to come off to get at it? Thanks.

 
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Luckily the AC was working normally the last few times. Thanks.

 
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You should be able to remove the harness without removing the door. Worse comes to worse, you remove the door, not hard to do

 
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I had good luck jumpering my door lock ground to the window ground wire after my door lock ground wire broke at the door hinge terminal block. Not sure you can still get the wires re-pinned or re-terminated to fit the plug. If you want better access to the boot and plug, take off the front fender. Piece of cake after that.

 
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I actually took it to a local garage (working on all types of cars) and asked them to see if they could fix it as well as swap out the stereo for another. They did the stereo but didn't feel like they could get at the wires for the window. He said he was nervous about messing the whole thing up. Maybe because I was just hanging around the area for 3 hours waiting for them (they had other cars to deal with too) that they felt like they couldn't get too deep into it. A friend said he'd help me take the door off. Does that seem like the most straightforward way to get at where the wire is loose or the bumper? Thanks.

 
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The front driver’s side fender is much easier to remove than the door. There are great YT videos on how to do it.
If you took the door off, it may not get re-aligned properly to correctly hit the latch pin or seal properly to prevent rain from coming in past the weather seals.

 
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Very helpful to read this. I'll start looking around for youtube videos showing that.
I looked at several videos on removing that fender. Still pretty advanced for my basic level. I did look more and more at the cable. The end of the plug closest to the door seems to have 2 blue dots which I guess need to be pushed to get it open. If I have any chance of trying to fix this myself I guess I'll try to get that open and see if I can do something without removing the door or fender. Right now, doing that slowly open and close door test doesn't make the window move at all. I did check the fuses and they're OK. Locks and mirrors still work fine. Thanks