Why is fuel pump clicking on 2005 after battery change?
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I replaced the battery on 2005 Civic LX 1700. It sat for about 1 day with no battery in temps from about 35 to 55. When I went to start it with the new battery, I had to do 3 or 4 cycles of turning over to start it, which had never occurred before, not even the last time I replaced the battery iirc. Then I noticed that a relay behind the glove compartment would click once while the car was running when:
* I pressed on the brake.
* With brake unpressed, I pressed on the gas to wind up no more than 1000 rpm past idle.
I assume this is the fuel pump relay. Due to the trouble starting the car, I assume there was insufficient fuel in the line, but I don't know why, since the car had been run within the previous few days. I also don't recall hearing the fuel pump relay in the past.
So, what are the chances that there is an issue in the fuel system? The car still runs fine, and has lived only on mild northern california.
Thanks.
* I pressed on the brake.
* With brake unpressed, I pressed on the gas to wind up no more than 1000 rpm past idle.
I assume this is the fuel pump relay. Due to the trouble starting the car, I assume there was insufficient fuel in the line, but I don't know why, since the car had been run within the previous few days. I also don't recall hearing the fuel pump relay in the past.
So, what are the chances that there is an issue in the fuel system? The car still runs fine, and has lived only on mild northern california.
Thanks.
#2
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Re: Why is fuel pump clicking on 2005 after battery change?
Any chance you are confusing the Shift Interlock Release clicking noise when you depress the brake pedal instead? This is normal.
Do the Idle Relearn Procedure after a battery change.
Do the Idle Relearn Procedure after a battery change.
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Next problem: I do not know how to do the Idle Relearn Procedure. Is it this:
just disconnect the battery)
With everything electrical turned off (radio, wipers, heat/ac, etc.) - Start the car and hold the idle at 3,000 RPM until the radiator fan comes on.
Release the accelerator and let the car idle for five minutes. (not including the radiator fan run time)
Others say also drive around.
Note that the click occurs not only when I depress the brake, but also with the brake off when I depress the accelerator bringing up the rpms by about 1000 or so.
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Re: Why is fuel pump clicking on 2005 after battery change?
Yes Shift Interlock located under gear shifter for auto trans.
Behind the glove box area are a few relays, one being the Main Fuel Relay. Turn the key to position II and about 3 seconds later you should hear a click from the relay. Search location of Main Fuel Relay and swap it out to rule it out.
Idle Relearn Procedure:
Behind the glove box area are a few relays, one being the Main Fuel Relay. Turn the key to position II and about 3 seconds later you should hear a click from the relay. Search location of Main Fuel Relay and swap it out to rule it out.
Idle Relearn Procedure:
- make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, rear window defogger, lights etc.) are off
- start engine and hold it at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park of N) until the radiator fan comes on , or until the engine coolant temp reaches op temps (middle of gauge in dash)
- let the engine idle for a minimum of 5 minutes with no load
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Yes Shift Interlock located under gear shifter for auto trans.
Behind the glove box area are a few relays, one being the Main Fuel Relay. Turn the key to position II and about 3 seconds later you should hear a click from the relay. Search location of Main Fuel Relay and swap it out to rule it out.
Idle Relearn Procedure:
Behind the glove box area are a few relays, one being the Main Fuel Relay. Turn the key to position II and about 3 seconds later you should hear a click from the relay. Search location of Main Fuel Relay and swap it out to rule it out.
Idle Relearn Procedure:
- make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, rear window defogger, lights etc.) are off
- start engine and hold it at 3,000 rpm with no load (in Park of N) until the radiator fan comes on , or until the engine coolant temp reaches op temps (middle of gauge in dash)
- let the engine idle for a minimum of 5 minutes with no load
Any idea why it should take 4 or so start attempts after I replaced the battery? Turned over just fine, but would not start, so I infer lack of fuel reaching the engine until line was fully primed. Normally, this car starts instantly, and does so now again always. It was just the first time after the new battery.
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Do you have a full tank? My car takes longer to start every time the tank is below 1/4.
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I haven't checked for the clicking again in several days (using our other car), but I doubt the level was below 1/4. I'll check next time.
I doubt that would have anything to do with the starting issue, because this has never occurred before, and surely the tank must have been below 1/4 at some point, so something else would have had to have changed as well.
For example, maybe at the initial few start attempts, the fuel pump did not run, maybe because the fuel pump relay did NOT turn on the first few times.
In your case, might it be because there is crud that gets picked up when fuel is below 1/4?
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Situation resolved:
The click is from the the shift interlock. This was easy to determine simply by laying my hand on the center console, where I could easily feel the click.
As to why this had "never happened before":
Normally, to start the car, I would put my foot on the brake, start, then put it in gear. In that sequence the interlock unlocks at the same time everything else is happening in the start sequence (or never locks in the first place), which would prevent me from putting the car into gear without pressing on the brake. Because I had that issue with several turn-over attempts, I was fiddling with the car while it was running, taking my foot on and off the brake.
The click from depressing the accelerator is similar: with my foot on the brake, pressing the accelerator caused the click. That is actually the solenoid operating in the other direction, locking the transmission so I don't put it into gear at higher rpms. Since this car does not have stall problems, there is basically never any need to rev it while holding the brake on, so I never noticed that before.
I was also able to verify that fuel pump relay and fuel pump operate as soon as key goes to position II.
Finally, the fuel gauge was on F, which I am hoping does not stand for "Fumes."
So, thanks to all who helped, especially NDNV.
PS: I did perform the idle learn sequence for good measure.
The click is from the the shift interlock. This was easy to determine simply by laying my hand on the center console, where I could easily feel the click.
As to why this had "never happened before":
Normally, to start the car, I would put my foot on the brake, start, then put it in gear. In that sequence the interlock unlocks at the same time everything else is happening in the start sequence (or never locks in the first place), which would prevent me from putting the car into gear without pressing on the brake. Because I had that issue with several turn-over attempts, I was fiddling with the car while it was running, taking my foot on and off the brake.
The click from depressing the accelerator is similar: with my foot on the brake, pressing the accelerator caused the click. That is actually the solenoid operating in the other direction, locking the transmission so I don't put it into gear at higher rpms. Since this car does not have stall problems, there is basically never any need to rev it while holding the brake on, so I never noticed that before.
I was also able to verify that fuel pump relay and fuel pump operate as soon as key goes to position II.
Finally, the fuel gauge was on F, which I am hoping does not stand for "Fumes."
So, thanks to all who helped, especially NDNV.
PS: I did perform the idle learn sequence for good measure.
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