chadzeilenga

Hi All,
I recently changed the timing belt / water pump on my 2004 Civic VP with 210k mi on it. This was the second belt on the car. I followed the great instructions on the DIY 2 on this site.

I had no issues with the change. Everything went smooth and took ~6hrs including the water pump / block drain. The car started right up and I bled out cooling system and drove 40 mi hwy to work without issue. I also drove 40mi home and within the last 5mi, I was passing someone and the car started to cut out and act like I hit rev limiter. Drove fine otherwise and I parked in the garage. When I rev motor it breaks up at 3k rpm. I pulled the codes and I have a P0344 (intermittent cam position sensor).
Since everything went so well, I figured the plug came loose, but it was fine. Sensor is probably 30k mi old as I had replaced it previously.
I removed the upper timing cover and verified that with my crank at TDC, the cam marks were even with top of head.
Then I removed the lower cover and everything looked ok.
I reinstalled my timing belt following the DIY 2 instructions on this site. I made sure that the non-tension side of the belt was taught while I routed the belt and then I rotated the crank 10+ times and the marks were dead on. I removed the CKP sensor and made surface was clean. I reassembled everything and even double checked the timing on the crank pulley and marks were still good. Started it up and it was surging at idle. Let it sit for a while and it smoothed out, but test drive had no power and the car shifted extremely hard going into and out of park.
The temp gauge is not reading anything even though the system is fully bled.
I go have a CEL, but cannot read because my scan tool is giving me an "Error bad connection" message anytime I try to read code. This is an issue that just started on this car tonight. I read codes today with no problem.
Both timing belt installs I. Disconnected the battery.
I'm really not sure what the issue could be.

chadzeilenga

After some reading, this sounds like the loose alternator bolt = BAD PCM. Do I have to remove PCM to get the p/n?

MassCivic

Had this happen to me recently, I found a matching set pcm, key and ignition on eBay and swapped them out no problem.

The part numbers aren't an exact match but as long as it comes from the same engine, trim and trans type you'll be fine. The computer has to come out either way though...

chadzeilenga

Ok, I didn't think of that. I do have a loaner vehicle I can use while I sort mine out. So you just needed to swap out the Ignition, PCM & Key and it was plug&play? No trip to dealer required?

I called the dealer and provided my VIN. They gave me a p/n for my PCM of 37820-PLM-A76. I have an 04 Civic VP with 1.7L & AT, so I would need to find the PCM that matched this configuration to avoid a re-flash, correct?

Is there a way to confirm it is the PCM?

One other item to note is the passenger side ground strap on my car is pretty green and is showing some damage near radiator support. I think I damaged while I was removing the overflow tank from rad. I was planning to replace with a new one from Honda. could this have contributed to the PCM issue. Should I change this out before i order a replacement PCM?

chadzeilenga

I got my ground straps off the engine tonight. Are there just two? Thermostat housing and the top of AT? Going to pick up replacements from Honda.

Noticed this while removing air box.

I hate mice!!!

ezone

Possible issue all its own? Aftermarket sensor? Hard to tell if it's gonna be caused by the issue noted below, but it's real likely.

This usually means the PCM got roasted.

As already noted, you need to recheck the alternator mounting bolts. (I did not see mention of you checking them yet)
If you don't find and fix this issue you will be doomed to burn up the next PCM too.
Maybe, maybe not. The front ground often looks lousy but is still pretty good electrically. If both grounds were shot yes it could cause problems.
Without double checking, I think you're needing the PCM for an 04-05, auto trans, and non-VTEC if yours does not have vtec. So a DX or LX unit.

Call and ask how much a dealer is gonna want to program the keys (explain that you are changing the PCM before you ask), it might not be all that bad...and you wouldn't need to have 2 different keys.

Check local locksmiths too, many can program the immobilizer systems. Not all though, here in my town the dealer is the only place that can do it.

That could limit performance, an air restriction LOL

chadzeilenga

Hey ezone, thanks for the reply. I've been reading up on other postings regarding this issue and appreciate your search for root cause.

I'm pretty sure the PCM is toast at this point. Loose ALT bolts from the first belt install likely did it in. I did re-install the next day and saw that bolts were loose and made sure they were tight during reassembly, but the damage had been done

Before I replace the PCM. I'm going to remove the ALT and clean up/grease all the mounting points along with replacing the two ground cables that are a pleasant green copper now.
Thanks for feedback. VP model is never mentioned so I thought it was going to be a hard one to find.

ezone

Sounds about right, caught it too late, damage done.

I can't cross reference your part number right now, but I was pretty sure it's the same as a DX or LX non-vtec.

chadzeilenga

Pulled the PCM today. It's a 37820-PLM-A72, so the A76 that the dealer gave me from my VIN just a newer revision?

ezone

37820-PLM-A76 is the newest part number, updated from the A72 in the car now.

chadzeilenga

Thanks. Does anyone know if there is much different in terms of problems resolved in the later versions? Will an A72 be just as good as a later one in the same family like an A74 or A75 would be a better option?

ezone

If you are getting brand new just get what the dealer sells you.

If you are getting a used part at a you-pull-it yard choose it by the cars equipment first, then confirm part number.

A72, 73, 74, 75, 76 seem to all be possible part numbers. No clue what any improvements or changes or differences may have been.

chadzeilenga

Yea, new isn't in the budget so I'm going used once I go through and get all of my grounds squared away. Spoke to dealership and charge is $120 to reflash ECU.

chadzeilenga

What does the second line of numbers on my PCM signify? Below is a picture of the PCM out of my car.

I found an A74 at a local yard, anything else to match up?

ezone

Nothing of importance to me.

chadzeilenga

Got the civic all back together last night. Installed both new ground wires, polished and greased all alternator mounting points with dielectric grease. Installed the replacement computer (tight fit) and had car towed off to the dealer

Here is decal from replacement computer out of 05 Civic

chadzeilenga

Picked up car from dealer and ran great. Definitely a learning experience. Only thing is dealer failed to mention the squealing ALT belt at idle. I got it as tight as I could during install, but couldn't start car due to PCM.