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Airbag recall and other questions

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Old Aug 7, 2014
  #31  
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Re: Airbag recall and other questions

Glad I didn't go with that. There was virtually no contact on the ends.

This is the pump end. No contact on the round part.

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But I also got similar results on the transmission end. Only half of it made contact.

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I went a lot lighter with the RTV than I did before and I think it worked out pretty well on the rest of the pan. Not nearly as much squished out. There was one spot where it looked a bit oily. More break cleaner next time.

Oily:

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But about the ends what should I do? Should I just use more there to make sure there is contact? Also the directions on the ultra grey package say finger tight for an hour and then torque. Is that right or should I just go immediately to 8.7lbf in 2-3 steps?
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Old Aug 7, 2014
  #32  
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Re: Airbag recall and other questions

Originally Posted by tkcne
Was there a better choice other than the $250 OEM option?
Just reseal the original pump, don't try to tear the pump apart?

I know, too late for that huh.


So, about the pics: Why doesn't the pan sit good and flat against the block all the way around? What's obstructing or in the way of it? I mean, it's pretty much 2 big flat rectangles, what's keeping them from mating flat? Figure this out before you smear sealer all over it.

You may need to use a lot more sealer through the dished area under the rear main.

You have gap by the pump area? Hard to tell what......you didn't catch part of the timing cover gasket inbetween the pump and the pan, did you?

Also the directions on the ultra grey package say
I tighten everything ASAP.
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Old Aug 7, 2014
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Re: Airbag recall and other questions

Originally Posted by ezone
Just reseal the original pump, don't try to tear the pump apart?

I know, too late for that huh.
I was just following the guide. It said to inspect it and that seemed like a good idea... It's possible that it may be fine but I just need to clean it and pack it with grease. But really the reason I replaced it was the first minor catastrophe that I didn't post because it's embarrassing.

The very first day I started with taking the crank bolt off because that was what I was most worried about. I did it just like everyone says to with two breaker bars and something to support them and had it off in 10min. Everything was great. But then I realized I needed to put it back on to do the coolant flush. Well I forgot to take the pulley holder off and when I turned the car on it slammed into the frame and popped off. It scared the hell out of me. I was imagining bent crankshafts and new engines. The pulley still spins perfectly true so I figure it's fine, but when I couldn't get the oil pump to spin right after I put it back together I thought the pulley might have pushed into the pump somehow. And the possibility of having to reinstall the oil pump again, or causing more damage because of a lack of oil, was a lot worse than $40. I may still see if I can fix up that oil pump someday, but that is for a much later thread.


Originally Posted by ezone
So, about the pics: Why doesn't the pan sit good and flat against the block all the way around? What's obstructing or in the way of it? I mean, it's pretty much 2 big flat rectangles, what's keeping them from mating flat? Figure this out before you smear sealer all over it.
It does sit flat but just not in the dishes. Particularly the initial curve on the oil pump seems to be slightly different than the one on the pan. The rear dish is also has a small gap most of the way around when the pan is seated flat.

Originally Posted by ezone
You may need to use a lot more sealer through the dished area under the rear main.
I think this is the answer in combination with less around the sides.

Originally Posted by ezone
You have gap by the pump area? Hard to tell what......you didn't catch part of the timing cover gasket inbetween the pump and the pan, did you?
Nothing caught. Just a bad pump I think.

I think I know what to do now. I'll give it another shot and post an update on how it goes.

Thanks for the help.
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