Look what I found.....
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Look what I found.....
UGH!!....look what i found while replacing my EVAP canister valve......
im hoping i can just replace the end, instead of the entire bar?
God knows how long its been like this, im not under the back end of my car too often
im hoping i can just replace the end, instead of the entire bar?
God knows how long its been like this, im not under the back end of my car too often
Last edited by mikey1; Jul 19, 2014 at 07:18 PM.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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Depends on how rusty the swaybar is, and if you damage it getting the stud and nut apart.
If I can't use a socket and gator grip pliers to get them apart, I use a whizwheel to cut the nut and stud to get them apart.
Or...just ignore it, let it rot completely off the car, and call it a DX?
If I can't use a socket and gator grip pliers to get them apart, I use a whizwheel to cut the nut and stud to get them apart.
Or...just ignore it, let it rot completely off the car, and call it a DX?
*watches temp gauge like a hawkboss* :D
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From: Definitely older than ezone's skateboard. XD
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Now I'm going to need to see mine... but TS Wali is bearing down on the Islands right now... so it'll have to wait until this weekend, prolly.
So far though I'm pretty satisfied with my damping/spring, if a bit soft at the rear. Much better than my Escort was... though with a wagon swaybar, that old bucket tore up some twisties way better than that horrible drivetrain deserved to, atop a Mazda Protege chassis.
So far though I'm pretty satisfied with my damping/spring, if a bit soft at the rear. Much better than my Escort was... though with a wagon swaybar, that old bucket tore up some twisties way better than that horrible drivetrain deserved to, atop a Mazda Protege chassis.
Last edited by kinakoes2; Jul 19, 2014 at 10:25 PM. Reason: Grammar
*watches temp gauge like a hawkboss* :D
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From: Definitely older than ezone's skateboard. XD
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If you drive like the target customer for the lower spec Civics do, sure. But if you want *less* understeer and much better control at the rear when you need it... best go with a thicker swaybar.
I replaced my Escort sedan's 13mm swaybar w/ a 21mm wagon one for... shipping cost. The difference when I pushed the car to it limits on twisties was night & day.
One of the better value basic suspension tweaks, before they get as pricey they tend to do. To me being able to maintain composure after a transition is pretty addictive, and this one will surprise you, if you didn't realize a link was off. Not a slam... but its been brought to my attn that much of my moto sensitivities don't apply with cars. Uh, sure they do... and you'll definitely feel the difference between no link and an RSX bar.
I replaced my Escort sedan's 13mm swaybar w/ a 21mm wagon one for... shipping cost. The difference when I pushed the car to it limits on twisties was night & day.
One of the better value basic suspension tweaks, before they get as pricey they tend to do. To me being able to maintain composure after a transition is pretty addictive, and this one will surprise you, if you didn't realize a link was off. Not a slam... but its been brought to my attn that much of my moto sensitivities don't apply with cars. Uh, sure they do... and you'll definitely feel the difference between no link and an RSX bar.
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i use the car for its intended purpose.....economy, i dont beat on it or race it, i have two wheels for that
it is mainly my wifes car, but i do drive it at least a few times a week and didnt notice any real difference,
now that i think about it, over the past year or so, every once in awhile (maybe every two weeks) i have noticed a "clunk" sound from that rear wheel when i back out of my driveway and go over the small bump at the roads edge, this is the only time it makes the noise,
i suspect that noise is cause by these two parts that should be together now hitting each other as they pass one another,
i will probably end up replacing the end piece, not because its a real problem, but just because i am ODC and like things done properly,
it is mainly my wifes car, but i do drive it at least a few times a week and didnt notice any real difference,
now that i think about it, over the past year or so, every once in awhile (maybe every two weeks) i have noticed a "clunk" sound from that rear wheel when i back out of my driveway and go over the small bump at the roads edge, this is the only time it makes the noise,
i suspect that noise is cause by these two parts that should be together now hitting each other as they pass one another,
i will probably end up replacing the end piece, not because its a real problem, but just because i am ODC and like things done properly,
That!!! If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
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So I pried the broken link out of the way so it can't clunk.
It's still like that. She can't tell any difference while driving from point A to point B.
so im assuming its not all that important?
But the DX doesn't have a rear swaybar at all.
because i am ODC
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 517 *watches temp gauge like a hawkboss* :D
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From: Definitely older than ezone's skateboard. XD
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i use the car for its intended purpose.....economy, i dont beat on it or race it, i have two wheels for that
it is mainly my wifes car, but i do drive it at least a few times a week and didnt notice any real difference,
now that i think about it, over the past year or so, every once in awhile (maybe every two weeks) i have noticed a "clunk" sound from that rear wheel when i back out of my driveway and go over the small bump at the roads edge, this is the only time it makes the noise,
i suspect that noise is cause by these two parts that should be together now hitting each other as they pass one another,
i will probably end up replacing the end piece, not because its a real problem, but just because i am ODC and like things done properly,
it is mainly my wifes car, but i do drive it at least a few times a week and didnt notice any real difference,
now that i think about it, over the past year or so, every once in awhile (maybe every two weeks) i have noticed a "clunk" sound from that rear wheel when i back out of my driveway and go over the small bump at the roads edge, this is the only time it makes the noise,
i suspect that noise is cause by these two parts that should be together now hitting each other as they pass one another,
i will probably end up replacing the end piece, not because its a real problem, but just because i am ODC and like things done properly,
Shame on ya for not detecting the lack of a link attached as a motorcyclist! j/k
Well... I suppose if you don't or haven't ever raced (or ridden in insanely fast street riding on track-prepped sportbikes, which is probably for the better
)... it's kinda hard to assume you would. 
I'd just reattach the link and call it good, under your use case. Though an RSX bar is both pretty cheap and will firm up rear grip as well as dial out quite a bit of understeer... it may not be worth it under those conditions.
That said, RSX bar is on my bucket list. Though the stock setup is quite good considering the tune, I do notice the understeer, esp right as my fronts begin to break traction as I begin to add power off the apex... at pretty hairy speed (65+ on my local set of twisties). I don't have a sportbike anymore to ride (in fact my new charger is to prep it for a new owner), so have to upgrade my cage.
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