contevo

I have civic 2001 coupe lx has been running great for the last 2 years.
Today, I did couple of runs and than I got home, and I came back out in a 1hr later.
the car cranks but doesn't start, so I called my girl over bring her car to see if my battery died or something, we jump it and car still won't start...thinking it was my battery but is not. I notice my Immobilizer green light indicator did not come on like it usually does especially when I take out the key, usually flash two times and than goes off but doesn't do that any more. So I got my backup key has no chip and when I use this key the light blinks like crazy is not even doing that either... so far i have tried troubleshooting with pic i got off another site testing for voltage and continuity and all checked out fine....

kinakoes2

manual? auto?

ezone

Blown fuse(s)?

contevo

is an auto. i checked the fuse, under-hood number 6 and 9 they are fine.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Do you hear buzz from rear when key 1st turned to II (fuel pump in tank)

contevo

I didn't notice but ill check right now.

edit:
I didn't hear any buzz.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

How about a click from behind the glove box when going to II ?? (PGM FI Relay)

contevo

when I turn the key to II i hear beeping and i do hear click coming from the glove.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Look at fuse #6 (15A) in under-hood

And, #17 (15A) and #10 in under-dash.

contevo

I check them non of them were blown... while I was under there i check them all. this is so frustrating...

ezone

Does the car have remote start? That's a great place to have hacked up wiring problems.

I think I'd run through both fuse boxes with a test light, check every fuse

get a wiring diagram/shop manual and inspect terminal voltages in the immobi unit connector, make sure the immobi unit gets powered up and grounded and has continuity on all the wires between it and everything connected to it......Reconnect immobi unit connector and see if it starts working again

Disconnect and reconnect junction connectors #C402 (14 terminal, gray, behind HVAC panel) and #C453 (13 terminal, white, below/near keyless receiver unit), see if that restores immobi operation

Scantest the immobi and PCM with the HDS scanner



If it starts working again after unplugging and reconnecting any of the connectors, look for microcorrosion (terminal fretting) on the terminals. This is a place where Stabilant-22A comes in handy.

contevo

no remote start. and those location u mention where are they located?

ezone

These?

You have to pull out the radio/HVAC panel to find C402

Find some online instructions for installing keyless in one of these cars in order to locate the keyless receiver unit. The description of the location is only "behind" this unit and looks like it is behind the steel supports for the dash and center console. (I don't have a real car here to look at, I'm just looking in a wire diagram)
You might be able to see it looking up from the passengers floor area between glovebox and the sides of center console where it meets the dash.

Ghost Rider

Burnt out / loose bulb possibly?

Ghost

contevo

I did cluster swap to a civic 2005 cluster I follow the wiring from diagram I got off this forum. I think. I check that today just in case if the wire got lose or something.

ezone

How long ago?



The bulb should be an LED, and based solely on what I see in the wiring diagram, I really don't think it would keep the engine from starting if it is out of the circuit.

I'll wait for your conclusion on that though.

contevo

I found a gray looking box behind the center console where the shift is on the floor and has two yellow connectors and with blue cables. I read the civic 2001 coupe lx don't have keyless entry install from factory only ex has it.
I use https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...r-problem.html and I use this service manual to troubleshoot the immobilizer Im getting power on the connector thats goes to immobilizer and I check continuity check out the fine. I'm starting to think is immobilizer is dead. If I get a bypass would it get my car going? Im starting to get desperate I already call in to work tomorrow given my self time figure this out. I got to the step telling me connected to get HDS get reading pin point but I have no access to it nor I have money to get my car tow to honda :-/

contevo

sometimes in 2013 lol, I remember when I was wiring it I short i t and the fuse blew but i replace work fine.

ezone

That's the airbag (SRS) controller. Don't touch it!






I have only had to replace a couple of them myself. Almost no other issues that I remember.

If it does indeed have a dead immobilizer control unit, the replacement would have to be programmed before the engine would run (need a dealer level scanner or equivalent scanner with immobilizer access).
I can't answer that one, that's not something I mess with.

I deal with mostly stock stuff at the dealership.

ezone

Nowhere close.


These are wire harness connectors. Maybe 1.5 inch X .5 inch or so.







Maaaaaybe the white one midway up the side of where the center console used to be? Does it have the correct number of wire holes?





And this one


In the opening where the radio and HVAC controls used to be you can see the edge of a gray connector standing up next to where a panel clip goes in the lower part of the left side area.

contevo

@ezone I check #C402 connector pretty much i left disconnect because lead to my stereo(aftermarket) I remove the climate/radio console left it off. I have been following service manual and one the step if say, "attach ECM/PCM connector 31P No. Terminal 7 to body groun with jump wire" that left me confuse!? than another step
turn off ignition, unplug immobilizer receiver 7p connector and unplug ECM connector E 31P I looked at my ecm under my glove and has 4 connector the one I think is talking about is the white one ? and want me test continuity between terminal 7p(wire blu/red) and 31p (red/bue) I just want make sure is that right ECM connector? if so I did the test turn out fine too. like idk what the hell is going on because this is weird. I just did timming belt 3 months ago and I did other routine maintenance the only thing was left to due was my oil. my battery is only 10 month old and I remember when i had old battery the green key light still came on with weak battery, and when I try crank u hear it and you see my hood moving.

ezone

If possible, look in a wiring diagram to see what it is they want you to do. Always double check wire colors before executing a test!
That would be terminal #7 in connector E of the PCM if I read this correctly.

This looks like it should cause the PGMFI main relay #1 to operate (closes the contacts to send battery power thru that relay contact set), and you probably will test for 12v+ at terminal #6 (yel/blk wire) on the immobi connector when you do this.

Your jumper wire will simply operate the relay, same as the PCM would do in normal operation.
You test that the relay did its job: sent power to the immobi unit..




Here's a pic of the PCM





You doing maintenance has nothing to do with stuff actually breaking and causing unforeseen problems.

contevo

ok thank you for the pic. those are my last two step beside the step I had to use HDS which I have no money for nor I have money for tow truck it to Honda.

thank you y'all for ya help I really appreciate it and being patient with me.

contevo

Ok, here the update. so I did the wiring to PGMFI main relay like the troubleshooting instruct to do, the relay clicked so I'm assuming is good sound, than I did voltage test on 7P connect terminal No. 6 color yel/blk I got no voltage, so say check fuse #4 under dash and the fuse is fine, it says if fuse is fine than there's open wire from immobilizer and to under-dash fuse box. so I was curious I made wire and found another source power with my meter and I splice the wire goes to the Immo which is yel/black cable and crossed my finger the immobilizer comes on but it didn't.... than I did next step which ask me to check for continuity from IMMO connector 7P to LG3 (no clue what is that) and body ground so i use my ground spot being using whole day
and I got 2ohm so it say for that test "substitute a known good immobilizer control unit-receiver and/or ECM/PCM"

I'm really thinking going to junkyard with my gf and get one this Immobilizer off it, I know it wont work because different car but I want to see if my immobilizer is done... I have been going at this all day I'm not going give up lol

ezone

The relay clicked, but that doesn't mean the relay is passing 12v+ through its contact points.

According to the wiring diagram I have, that should supply the power to the main relay #2 (fuel pump relay) IAC, all 4 injectors, and a few other things.

So..... Apply the ground wire to the same E7 terminal to make that relay click on again.
Grab your voltmeter.
Now go measure on any of the yel/blk wires at the fuel injectors. If you don't have 12v+ there, you could be looking at a simple bad relay.
Pull the bank of relays out at the glovebox and test on the wires underneath them (or just get underneath them).
Um, fuse #4 shows it is for the radiator fan relay. I don't see how that ties in with the immobilizer at all.
.......I think the PCM has to supply the controls and communication to the immobi unit at the correct time before it can work. You only supplied a power with your jumper, if the PCM wasn't connected and powered up properly.....it wouldn't work.


That would be the brn/yel wire, terminal #7 in the immobi connector to terminal E3 at the PCM. It's a ground.
The immobi unit is far cheaper than a PCM.

If a JY unit makes the light come on, you will at least know you were on the right track!


Assuming it's that: Some junkyards will sell the complete ignition lock assembly with keys and with the matching PCM. That could get you on the road without programming at a dealer. But you'd now have different keys for doors and ignition.




But go back to where I said it might be the relay and check there first.

ezone

Been editing previous post. Go back and check it again LOL.

contevo

ok, Ill give you update later today(is 1am in texas) I'll do those test and I'm probably going JY at noon I check their inventory online they have two coupes... thank you for helping me(everyone else) I really appreciate it

ezone

Correction: That's terminal #1 in the immobi connector.

Sorry bout that!

Ghost Rider

There is a JY in Kennedale the specializes in Hondas

Located off of Business 287 on Oak Crest Drive E - just in case Ya can't find it elsewhere



Ghost

contevo

ok @ezone i test the fuel injector wire they are getting 12volt and im assuming u meant for me check under relay bank for 12 volt correct? ok under those relay bank i see 3 cable has yel/blk i test them one them said 0.22 volt and other 2 said 12volt and i test other colors i got 12 volt and there was yel/green no volt