Rep Power: 368

better now than after.

I did not remove the intake, took head/intake together, but then i did not do what kinakoes and ezone mentioned to not to do

 
Rep Power: 0

LOL now you're talking I got the head back today and installed everything back in the head. I have the intake mated to the head in the basement ready to drop the whole assembly in Ill see hoe it goes tomorrow but first...anyone know the torque specs for the oil pressure switch? I cant find it anywhere.

 
Rep Power: 519

Not too tight, common sense. It's got tapered threads, you can easily crack the block casting if you get it too tight.

Spec says 13 ft-lb


Instructions say to use liquid gasket on the threads.....but I would wrap the threads with common teflon tape to seal, then install.

 
Rep Power: 0

Get some PB Blaster

Soak the bolt / area.., let it sit for a bit

After a bit take a ball peen and gentle (I repeat gently) tap the bolt. if you cannot access the bolt.., use a metal rod.., not a punch but a metal rod (like rebar or similar)

Place one end of the rod on the bolt head and tap the other end gently

Re-saturate the area - let stand again for a bit (longer the better) - then try to loosen the bolt

May need to tap the bolt head a few more times with the ball peen..., may even need to tap the wrench with the ball peen

It will come out


Note; tap is not beat the hell out of... nor is it hit hard - simple taps.., after soaking a couple or three times - should get R done

Make certain the wrench is a box end..., or socket w/ a breaker bar - not an open end wrench.., nor monkey (adjustable) wrench

Ghost

 
Rep Power: 314

I took my intake off when I did it. What a nightmare. If I ever did the job again the intake will definitely be staying on. Actually you can just leave it on and then you don't have to worry about vacuum leaks after the job is complete.

 
Rep Power: 0

Well I installed the whole assembly intake and head at once. That part was fine but for whatever reason the gasket holes and dowel pins were busting my *****. Had to take it off like 5 times because either a dowel pin or a gasket hole was stopping a bolt from threading in.

Oh well the job is done. Car runs great but I will be keeping an eye out for any overflow problem

But there is one thing wrong now. The oil light blinks really fast when the car is stopped. If I give it any throttle at all the light goes away. I replaced the oil pressure switch/sender that I broke with a BWD with light OE style. Any idea why the light would be doing this now?

 
Rep Power: 519

Put a factory oil pressure sender in it.

 
Rep Power: 0

^That's one part I would never skimp on, despite the cost of OEM Honda switches/sensors.

Others are the ECT, IAT and MAP sensors.