Rep Power: 0

Called 2 dealerships and both want 400 for just the part for 1 o2 sensor.

I have a 04 4 door civic ex with a engine light on and autozone detected it was the o2 sensors.

So I went to autozone.com and see

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...074_1784_98000

$39.99

or this

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...420_1784_97999

$199

why such a huge difference in price?

Thanks to all for the information

 
Rep Power: 244

Your links don't work. Well they kind of do. Oxygen sensors are expensive , that's the way it is.

The first sensor is junk.

If the second one is Bosch then it is also junk.

Get whatever brand is already in the car. Should be Denso or NGK.

 
Rep Power: 161

Not sure if you have an Auto or Manual trans, but the parts are the same. If you want an OEM replacement, look here (part #19):

http://www.hondapartsnow.com/Page_Pr...D=9286 1478515

 
Rep Power: 244

I believe its so expensive because it is an A/F sensor as opposed to an oxygen sensor. In 03 they switched. 01-02 had o2 sensor, 03-05 was A/F sensor.

 
Rep Power: 512

Wideband O2 sensors (04-05 primary O2 sensor) are bloody expensive compared to narrowband (01-03 primary) as GolNat alluded to. That's one of those things thst you have to suck up the stupid price to avoid any more problems. If you use non-OEM or universal sensors, you're gonna have a bad time.

 
Rep Power: 518

Post up the real code number(s).

Not DangerZones description of what the problem might be, nor the parts list they tried to get you to buy.

Just the code number(s).
And freeze frame data if you got it.




Then we'll talk.

 
Rep Power: 0

What do you mean by "freeze frame data"???

 
Rep Power: 518

It's a set of data parameters that are stored along with at least one code that indicate some of the operating conditions at the time the code set. RPM, MPH, Coolant Temp, Calculated Load, and several others.

The data can help immensely on some issues.


Not all cheapo code readers can obtain the data, and the user needs to know where to find it in the reader if it can.

 
Rep Power: 0

That LAF sensor references the Honda part number, and I just put one in my '04 ES2... it works perfectly. Had CEL (P0134) due to previous owner putting in a Bosch O2 sensor (basically a go/no-go switch), vs. this Denso wideband one, which allows the PCM to discern levels of richness/leanness compared to stoichiometric. No CEL after clearing code and restarting.

I think there's another Denso one for ~$118 on there in a search for the Honda pt#, though I picked the first one just due to referencing the Honda number specifically in the description. Haven't found one cheaper than that so far.

 
Rep Power: 0

BTW... I use my Samsung GS4 with the paid Torque app, with this BT code reader:



Doesn't do the fancy stuff, but it does read, store and clear codes IRT. Best of the budget BT code readers, won't burn up like some cheaper ones. Keep it in my console and just plug it in when needed. IIRC Torque is $5 in the Android Play Store.

 
Rep Power: 0

Thanks for all the information. Another question. Since I went to Autozone for the test. I guess he reset it. The engine light hasn't been on since. I was going to take it to a friend to test it again to let me know which sensor was out. With no light on, no error correct? Do I just wait for the light to reappear before fixing it?

 
Rep Power: 518

Sounds normal, some are instructed to erase codes, some are instructed NOT to erase codes.

So the problem is not present at this time.

If the light has not come on since the codes were erased, you may or may not get any info from the computer.
There's more to it than that, but the only thing you can do is plug a scanner in and see if there is anything stored that you can read. If nothing is there, then nothing is there.

If something is in there, you have to figure out if it is a past problem (history), or an "immature" problem that takes more than one failure to trip the light and set a 'hard code' (light comes on after the second consecutive self test and fail)


Yeah, probably.
Then you will KNOW there is some info stored, you can then recheck and get the actual code.

 
Rep Power: 313

I had an O2 sensor circuit yadda yadda come up one my civic once. I took it to Active green n Ross and they reset it. Drove for another two years without getting the light again. In fact when I started it recently, the light was still not one (Car is parked).

 
Rep Power: 367

mine never came on, but mileage sucked. so i changed the O2 sensor (mine is narrow band, so cheaper) and mileage came back on.

 
Rep Power: 0

Is this the part that I need to replace the upstream sensor?

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...750&cc=1425451

 
Rep Power: 518

You got a code yet?

 
Rep Power: 518

36531-plr-003

 
Rep Power: 0

Heck no, but I am getting bored. About to go out and spend all kinds of $$'s on some craftsman gear so I can change my own oil

Figured this will help me get motivated

 
Rep Power: 518

Boring is good. Saves a lot of money LOL
straddle- one side of the car up on the curb, no jack needed if you get creative
17mm wrench if the drain plug is still factory size
oil filter wrench
catch pan,
gallon milk jug
funnel
4 qts 5w20



Or do it the other way.....

Men vs. Women: How to Change Oil

It really is different.

WOMEN:

1. Pull up to Jiffy Lube or Valvoline Instant Oil Change when the mileage reaches 3,000 miles since the last oil change.

2. Drink a cup of coffee while they change the oil.

3. 15 minutes later, write a check and leave with a properly maintained vehicle.

Cost: $29.99 oil change, $2.00 coffee. Total $32.00

MEN:

1. Wait until Saturday, drive to the auto parts store. Buy a case of oil, oil filter, kitty litter, hand cleaner (don't forget a little tree air freshener). Write a check to the auto parts store for approximately $50.

2. Stop by 7/11 on the way home, buy a case of beer. Write a check for $20.00.

3. Drive home with oil and beer.

4. Open beer, enjoy it.

5. Spend 30 minutes looking for the jack stands.

6. Find the jack stands (finally) under the kid's pedal car, jack the car up.

7. Open another beer, drink it.

8. Place drain pan under engine.

9. Look for 9/16" box end wrench for drain plug

10. Give up looking ten minutes later, find crescent wrench.

11. Unscrew drain plug.

12. Drop drain plug into pan of hot oil. Splash hot oil onto your hands and face in the process. Cuss and swear.

13. Crawl out from under car, wipe hot oil from hands and face. Throw some kitty litter on the spilled oil.

14. Open another beer while watching the last drops of oil drain.

15. Spend 30 minutes looking for the oil filter wrench.

16. Give up looking for oil filter wrench, crawl under car and hammer a flat-head screwdriver through the oil filter and twist it off.

17. Crawl out from under car, splashing hot oil everywhere from newly made holes in oil filter.

18. Cleverly hide used oil filter in trash to avoid those pesky environmental penalties. Open another beer.

19. Install new oil filter, making sure to apply a thin coat of oil to the gasket.

20. Pour the first quart of new oil into engine.

21. Oops! Now remember the drain plug (removed in step 11). It's still swimming in the now-warm oil in the drain pan.

22. Throw more kitty litter on the quart-sized oil puddle on the floor.

23. Open another beer and drink it.

24. Find drain plug with a minimum of spillage, hand-tighten in drain plug socket. Drink beer.

25. Crawl under car (getting oily kitty litter embedded in neck and arms). Tighten drain plug with crescent wrench, but this time, it's slippery. Bang your knuckles on the frame while tightening drain plug.

26. Throw crescent wrench across the garage in anger. Throw a fit because crescent wrench hits bowling trophy (which wife wouldn't let stay in the house).

27. Open another beer and drink it.

28. Clean hands, bandaging where needed to stop blood flow.

29. Pour in five quarts of fresh oil.

30. Lower car from jack stands. Smile at your handiwork. Open another beer and drink it.

31. Move car back to discover oil puddles you missed; apply more kitty litter to missed areas.

32. Test drive car to make sure oil doesn't leak.

33. Get pulled over a block from the house by local police, get arrested for DUI.

34. Call loving wife and bail bondsman.

35. Next day, get car out of impound yard.

Cost: $50 parts, $20 beer, Impound fee $75, Bail $1500, DUI $2500 minimum. Total $4145 (but you know the job was done right!)

 
Rep Power: 0

Hold everything...... After all that beer and going up and down my stairs to watch "How to change 04 Honda Civic Ex oil" on youtube 30x do you think I'll even know if the job was done right?

 
Rep Power: 518

I guess that would depend on your alcohol tolerance?

 
Rep Power: 512

Just out of curiosity, since your username has "nevada" in it, you're not in Vegas, are you? If you are, and you need help (assuming I have the time, of course), I'd be glad to help out, teach you how to tinker with the em2

 
Rep Power: 0

I live in Henderson, deep in Anthem Highlands. Takes me 15 minutes to get anywhere. I have off Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Would be awesome to have someone looking over my shoulder if you have the spare time.

What part of the city are you from?

 
Rep Power: 512

Good lord, you live in Anthem? I felt underdressed driving around that area looking for a sushi place in that area. I'm up in the summerlin/centennial hills side of town

 
Rep Power: 0

I Love Sushi. It's on Eastern just before the Anthem split. IMHO best sushi in the city. I gave up on eating sushi after the nuclear meltdown in Japan. They are testing high levels of radiation off the coast of California. I can only imagine what tests are around Hawaii and Japan. I believe they are still dumping nuclear water into the ocean.

 
Rep Power: 367

Off topic, lol, but I guess most of tuna comes from Atlantic, the best ones shipped to Japan.

Be careful of oily shellfish from gulf of Mexico instead

 
Rep Power: 512

I think it was sushi factory I was looking for. Celebratory dinner for my friend's graduation.

As far as radiation and fish goes, I was a nuclear power plant mechanic in the Navy, and the radiation reports didn't even make me bat an eye. It actually bugged me that the news and social media "spam" was making it out to be exponentially worse than it actually was. After Fukushima happened, I kept up to date on it, and thanks to my background, had access to actual numbers regarding radiation levels and contamination both at the site and surrounding areas. I was severely disappointed at the lack of anti-nuke hipped on UNLV's campus after that incident because I had no one to educate on the matter. I was barely 4 months out of the Navy when that happened, so all that was fresh in my mind.. lol

But I digress... If you need Honda OEM parts, I wouldn't go to dealerships around here, unless you have a good rapport with the sales staff that'll sell you stuff just over cost. Hondapartsunlimited.com is an online parts dealer out of AZ and you'll pay probably 2/3 of dealership prices, plus shipping. Since they're out of AZ, you'll get your parts within a week.

Back when I did my first head gasket job, I showed the price that majestic honda (hondaautomotiveparts.com) would have given me with overnight shipping for a head gasket kit, so they gave it to me for that price.