j.squared

While I was working on my car (2003 Honda Civic EX) this weekend, I noticed that the front strut tower/bracket on both sides is coming apart which explains why I thought the roads around here were getting bad (i.e. my ride was getting rougher). Does anyone know why the strut tower bracket would fail <50k miles after installation? I don't race the car and I don't abuse my ride either. Most of my miles are on the highway and the secondary roads that use are well maintained. I tend to go out of my way to avoid potholes. When I bought the car (used) one strut was failing so I had both struts and both strut tower/brackets replaced. All of the parts I purchased were KYBs from RockAuto. Should I have gone with Monroe or another brand? Should I have replaced the springs at the same time? (My mechanic said the springs were in good shape.) Any insight is greatly appreciated.

I am planning on replacing at least the strut towers/brackets this week because I don't want them to completely fail while driving around.

ezone

Post pics?

j.squared

Attached are pics of the top of each strut tower.

j.squared

Take note of the shredded rubber on the 12 o'clock for the picture on the left.

Take note of the shredded rubber on the 3 and 7 o'clock for the picture on the right.

When you press down on each strut tower, it is obvious the towers are shot. The shredded rubber was the main sign I noticed which made me check out the struts and towers.

ezone

Rubber bushings are starting to break loose from the metal and come apart/crumble as you turn the steering wheel?

I can't tell you what's the cause of yours...... maybe consider age and miles? Mount plate bearings shot?




I have seen some that were apparently ruined by the installer, tore the rubber in their mounts by tightening/torquing the large nut while only holding the top plate, instead of putting an allen (hex) wrench in the end of the strut shaft and tightening against that.
The rubber bushing in that top plate wasn't designed to be forcefully twisted.
It was only designed to give a bit of compliance to let the shaft move up and down a wee bit and wiggle as the strut moves (as the steering turns).

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

ah, yes, they are called top mounts - get some from some of the online dealers or at the dealer or wherever you can get them?

j.squared

EZ - they have less than 50k mi on the struts and brackets. Age shouldn't be a factor yet, should it? Should I replace the springs too?

Any suggestions on replacement brand? Local dealer charges ~$160 each strut, online dealer charges ~$115 each, rockauto has KYB for $95 each and Monroe for $75 each. Brackets are evenly priced. Spring options are $181 each from online dealer, $260 each at local dealer, and raybestos for $63 at rockauto.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

why not just the top mounts?
anything on the shocks that you did notice?

j.squared

The tops of the struts when u push down on the car look beat up. I've never heard of replacing the bracket without replacing the strut.

ezone

Had to read the OP a couple more times.

The car no longer has factory parts. Right?
The factory parts (strut tops in this case) would normally last the entire life of the car, for most people.

You installed aftermarket parts, of questionable quality. (The KYB shocks themselves might be ok, but other parts of the setup apparently were not.)

(Side note: Guess why aftermarket shock absorber companies recommend replacing shocks and struts every 50,000 miles!)


Trouble now may be that factory parts might no longer be an option. Some brands of the quick strut assemblies are JUST different enough that you can't use factory parts and you are stuck fixing them with more inferior parts, or replacing the complete units all over again....or putting on all of the factory parts that were taken off (nobody ever saves them).
Some bargain.

You've never heard of replacing ONLY the strut by itself either?
Same damn thing.
That's the reason you can buy all these parts separately from the factory.


I'd attempt to fix them with OEM strut tops first. If they don't fit, then you are ________.

In the shop, I really hate to see those aftermarket quick struts. I don't even want to touch them.

j.squared

I replaced both the mounts (plus all associated parts) and the struts with KYB who is the OEM.


I haven't. I wasn't trying to say that it cannot be done, I just hadn't heard of it being done before. If you are replacing one, I would figure you would replace them both.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

then you heard it now.
"you can replace them separately".

done.

ezone

What sort of answer do you want?

Yours are apparently still a problem now, no matter who made them or when they were installed.

You asked WHY they would fail in your OP:
I have 2 suspicions of WHY they might fail.
One is low quality, the other is installation error.
Take your pick, unless you KNOW the actual cause of your failure.

Refer to the misinstallation notes I made earlier:
KYB might be an original equipment supplier to the manufacturer, sure. But does that mean the tops and struts you purchased from Rock Auto are, in fact, OE equivalent?
Not always, and since it's Rock Auto, I suspect not -- until proven otherwise. Sure seems like they are like the DangerZone of online cheapo parts sales.

(Like how Walmart can have cheap stuff on their shelves that appears to be the same as higher priced items elsewhere. They only look the same on the outside...)

We replace struts all the time, struts and only struts. All the other parts remain original, if possible.
We can replace other parts by themselves too, if needed.

You wouldn't believe how fast an estimate can be blown out of the water once we start adding every last item to it.

But keep in mind, my job deals with 99% factory and factory supplied parts, not aftermarket.



IF they are actually the same as OE.