Speedometer needle
09-17-2013
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Speedometer needle
Hi All,
I just bought a 2001 ex two door coupe with the VTEC. Trying to fix a few bugs and appreciate all the help so far. I thought I would start a new thread on this issue. The speedometer does not go to zero when stopped or with the ignition off. It shows about 15 mph when stopped or off. It does work though and seems to be over 15 through out its range. We have a radar sign near work that tells you your speed and around 40mph it was reading 55mph. Is there a way to pull the needle off and move it a little to make it closer to actual speed? Thanks for the help.
Ed
I just bought a 2001 ex two door coupe with the VTEC. Trying to fix a few bugs and appreciate all the help so far. I thought I would start a new thread on this issue. The speedometer does not go to zero when stopped or with the ignition off. It shows about 15 mph when stopped or off. It does work though and seems to be over 15 through out its range. We have a radar sign near work that tells you your speed and around 40mph it was reading 55mph. Is there a way to pull the needle off and move it a little to make it closer to actual speed? Thanks for the help.
Ed
09-17-2013
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Rep Power: 161 Re: Speedometer needle
Not sure if it can fixed, but you can do the below instrument panel test to see if it tries to sweep to zero.
Press and hold odometer button, turn parking lights on, turn ignition to ON, turn parking lights OFF, ON, OFF, then press odometer button 3 times. You can start the engine in the mode but gauges will not work. Shut off ignition to cancel this mode.
Press and hold odometer button, turn parking lights on, turn ignition to ON, turn parking lights OFF, ON, OFF, then press odometer button 3 times. You can start the engine in the mode but gauges will not work. Shut off ignition to cancel this mode.
09-17-2013
#3
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Speedometer needle
Did someone put a gauge face kit in it? Maybe someone took the needles off and just got that one back on in the wrong spot.
It's worth a try, pull the needle off and set it back in the right spot, double check it before you button it back up. The next choice is probably replacing the cluster.
It's worth a try, pull the needle off and set it back in the right spot, double check it before you button it back up. The next choice is probably replacing the cluster.
09-17-2013
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Rep Power: 152 Re: Speedometer needle
Did someone put a gauge face kit in it? Maybe someone took the needles off and just got that one back on in the wrong spot.
It's worth a try, pull the needle off and set it back in the right spot, double check it before you button it back up. The next choice is probably replacing the cluster.
It's worth a try, pull the needle off and set it back in the right spot, double check it before you button it back up. The next choice is probably replacing the cluster.
Ed
09-17-2013
#5
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Speedometer needle
Ok, you might try a gauge reset. Make sure you know your radio code!
Disconnect the battery cables and hold (connect) the ends together for at least one minute. (This supposedly is to dump memory and discharge capacitors.) Reconnect the cables (positive first, negative last) see if anything changed.
If no joy, well, you didn't lose any money. Carry on.
I found this info, but this says for DX and VP. You have an EX so it shouldn't apply, but worth a look anyway. (C&P from the Honda site)
Got a 01-05 Civic DX or VP in your shop with a
speedometer needle that sticks or won't go back
to zero? A warped plastic facing on the gauge
assembly could be the culprit. When the
headlights and instrument panel lights are turned
on, heat from the gauge bulbs can soften the
plastic facing, causing it to warp and block the
needles path. To fix this problem, replace the
gauge assembly.
Gray like in that video above?
I was thinking it should be black, but I suffer from CRS. See if anyone else chimes in.
Those temps are fine.
Temp ga reading is buffered. Center of the gauge can be anywhere from (SWAG)170-220 real temp, with almost no needle movement. It's like a glorified idiot light ---- until the temp goes screaming high.
Running down the highway steady 65 MPH or so, with your scanner, operating temp should stay near 180f (thermostat rating).
Stop and let the radiator fan come on, temp on the scanner will probably be around 212-218. (Fan switch is 203F, but it is on the lower rad hose. ECT and temps in the head can be quite a bit higher than 203 before the fan comes on.)
If you swap a cluster, you will lose your correct mileage.
Odometer mileage is retained within the gauge cluster, not the other control units on the car.
A dealer cannot change the mileage on these, we have to send the cluster to a speedo shop. (We use Palo Alto Speedometer http://www.paspeedo.com/)
It's just a used car, not a lemon. You don't know anything about its history, and it doesn't take long for some people to completely ruin a car.
Wow, low mileage, no wonder it hasn't given you trouble. Hasn't blown the head gasket yet I bet.
You could probably swap this cluster in as a test if you wanted to.
Disconnect the battery cables and hold (connect) the ends together for at least one minute. (This supposedly is to dump memory and discharge capacitors.) Reconnect the cables (positive first, negative last) see if anything changed.
If no joy, well, you didn't lose any money. Carry on.
I found this info, but this says for DX and VP. You have an EX so it shouldn't apply, but worth a look anyway. (C&P from the Honda site)
Got a 01-05 Civic DX or VP in your shop with a
speedometer needle that sticks or won't go back
to zero? A warped plastic facing on the gauge
assembly could be the culprit. When the
headlights and instrument panel lights are turned
on, heat from the gauge bulbs can soften the
plastic facing, causing it to warp and block the
needles path. To fix this problem, replace the
gauge assembly.
It has a grey color to the face of the dials.
I was thinking it should be black, but I suffer from CRS. See if anyone else chimes in.
Temp guage reads almost in the mid range but OBD reads 204 to 210 in the driveway, which I think is too high.
Temp ga reading is buffered. Center of the gauge can be anywhere from (SWAG)170-220 real temp, with almost no needle movement. It's like a glorified idiot light ---- until the temp goes screaming high.
Running down the highway steady 65 MPH or so, with your scanner, operating temp should stay near 180f (thermostat rating).
Stop and let the radiator fan come on, temp on the scanner will probably be around 212-218. (Fan switch is 203F, but it is on the lower rad hose. ECT and temps in the head can be quite a bit higher than 203 before the fan comes on.)
If I have to get another cluster will it automatically set the mileage or does that have to be programmed by the dealer?
Odometer mileage is retained within the gauge cluster, not the other control units on the car.
A dealer cannot change the mileage on these, we have to send the cluster to a speedo shop. (We use Palo Alto Speedometer http://www.paspeedo.com/)
This car is starting to make me think I got a lemon
I also have a 2001 Civic lx with 40,000 miles that never gives me any trouble.
You could probably swap this cluster in as a test if you wanted to.
Last edited by ezone; 09-17-2013 at 08:21 PM.
09-18-2013
#6
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Rep Power: 152 Re: Speedometer needle
Ok, you might try a gauge reset. Make sure you know your radio code!
Disconnect the battery cables and hold (connect) the ends together for at least one minute. (This supposedly is to dump memory and discharge capacitors.) Reconnect the cables (positive first, negative last) see if anything changed.
If no joy, well, you didn't lose any money. Carry on.
I found this info, but this says for DX and VP. You have an EX so it shouldn't apply, but worth a look anyway. (C&P from the Honda site)
Got a 01-05 Civic DX or VP in your shop with a
speedometer needle that sticks or won't go back
to zero? A warped plastic facing on the gauge
assembly could be the culprit. When the
headlights and instrument panel lights are turned
on, heat from the gauge bulbs can soften the
plastic facing, causing it to warp and block the
needles path. To fix this problem, replace the
gauge assembly.
Gray like in that video above?
I was thinking it should be black, but I suffer from CRS. See if anyone else chimes in.
Those temps are fine.
Temp ga reading is buffered. Center of the gauge can be anywhere from (SWAG)170-220 real temp, with almost no needle movement. It's like a glorified idiot light ---- until the temp goes screaming high.
Running down the highway steady 65 MPH or so, with your scanner, operating temp should stay near 180f (thermostat rating).
Stop and let the radiator fan come on, temp on the scanner will probably be around 212-218. (Fan switch is 203F, but it is on the lower rad hose. ECT and temps in the head can be quite a bit higher than 203 before the fan comes on.)
If you swap a cluster, you will lose your correct mileage.
Odometer mileage is retained within the gauge cluster, not the other control units on the car.
A dealer cannot change the mileage on these, we have to send the cluster to a speedo shop. (We use Palo Alto Speedometer http://www.paspeedo.com/)
It's just a used car, not a lemon. You don't know anything about its history, and it doesn't take long for some people to completely ruin a car.
Wow, low mileage, no wonder it hasn't given you trouble. Hasn't blown the head gasket yet I bet.
You could probably swap this cluster in as a test if you wanted to.
Disconnect the battery cables and hold (connect) the ends together for at least one minute. (This supposedly is to dump memory and discharge capacitors.) Reconnect the cables (positive first, negative last) see if anything changed.
If no joy, well, you didn't lose any money. Carry on.
I found this info, but this says for DX and VP. You have an EX so it shouldn't apply, but worth a look anyway. (C&P from the Honda site)
Got a 01-05 Civic DX or VP in your shop with a
speedometer needle that sticks or won't go back
to zero? A warped plastic facing on the gauge
assembly could be the culprit. When the
headlights and instrument panel lights are turned
on, heat from the gauge bulbs can soften the
plastic facing, causing it to warp and block the
needles path. To fix this problem, replace the
gauge assembly.
Gray like in that video above?
I was thinking it should be black, but I suffer from CRS. See if anyone else chimes in.
Those temps are fine.
Temp ga reading is buffered. Center of the gauge can be anywhere from (SWAG)170-220 real temp, with almost no needle movement. It's like a glorified idiot light ---- until the temp goes screaming high.
Running down the highway steady 65 MPH or so, with your scanner, operating temp should stay near 180f (thermostat rating).
Stop and let the radiator fan come on, temp on the scanner will probably be around 212-218. (Fan switch is 203F, but it is on the lower rad hose. ECT and temps in the head can be quite a bit higher than 203 before the fan comes on.)
If you swap a cluster, you will lose your correct mileage.
Odometer mileage is retained within the gauge cluster, not the other control units on the car.
A dealer cannot change the mileage on these, we have to send the cluster to a speedo shop. (We use Palo Alto Speedometer http://www.paspeedo.com/)
It's just a used car, not a lemon. You don't know anything about its history, and it doesn't take long for some people to completely ruin a car.
Wow, low mileage, no wonder it hasn't given you trouble. Hasn't blown the head gasket yet I bet.
You could probably swap this cluster in as a test if you wanted to.
I appreciate all the help and I am overall happy with the car. You put my mind at ease on the temp gauge issue. Those values are spot on with what I am getting on my scanner. One thing though, I checked both my cars this morning after sitting all night. My wife's car read 81 on the scanner and my new used car read 101. It is like every guage is reading high. 81 seemed about right this morning. I think I will change the sensor that feeds the CPU and see if it changes. My number one thing to fix is the drivers power window. I will take care of the others as I can. I like to tinker so it gives me some projects but I like things to work like they are supposed to. That part about the bezel touching the needles doesnt apply in my case. The needle move but read too high.
About my wifes car, it is the true little old lady car. I bought it two years ago with 14000 miles on it. Garage kept, every service record, absolutely like brand new. Elder lady just drove it to doctor and grocery store. Great find.
Have a good one and thanks again.
Ed
09-18-2013
#7
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: Speedometer needle
wife's car read 81 on the scanner and my new used car read 101. It is like every guage is reading high.
the ECT (engine coolant temp) and IAT (intake air temp) temps should read within just a couple degrees of each other. That's just a quick check to see if one or the other is screwy.
Info for the temp gauge and the tach come directly from the PCM through data communication line. So yeah, if the PCM is seeing incorrect info, the gauge can display the same incorrect info. (GIGO)
09-18-2013
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Rep Power: 152 Re: Speedometer needle
After sitting overnight (and before the sun can warm anything up),
the ECT (engine coolant temp) and IAT (intake air temp) temps should read within just a couple degrees of each other. That's just a quick check to see if one or the other is screwy.
Info for the temp gauge and the tach come directly from the PCM through data communication line. So yeah, if the PCM is seeing incorrect info, the gauge can display the same incorrect info. (GIGO)
the ECT (engine coolant temp) and IAT (intake air temp) temps should read within just a couple degrees of each other. That's just a quick check to see if one or the other is screwy.
Info for the temp gauge and the tach come directly from the PCM through data communication line. So yeah, if the PCM is seeing incorrect info, the gauge can display the same incorrect info. (GIGO)
My EX has gray faceplates on the guages. My wifes stock LX has black faceplate, If that tells anything. Tomorrow is another day.
Ed
09-19-2013
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Rep Power: 152 Re: Speedometer needle
After sitting overnight (and before the sun can warm anything up),
the ECT (engine coolant temp) and IAT (intake air temp) temps should read within just a couple degrees of each other. That's just a quick check to see if one or the other is screwy.
Info for the temp gauge and the tach come directly from the PCM through data communication line. So yeah, if the PCM is seeing incorrect info, the gauge can display the same incorrect info. (GIGO)
the ECT (engine coolant temp) and IAT (intake air temp) temps should read within just a couple degrees of each other. That's just a quick check to see if one or the other is screwy.
Info for the temp gauge and the tach come directly from the PCM through data communication line. So yeah, if the PCM is seeing incorrect info, the gauge can display the same incorrect info. (GIGO)
Ed
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