Rep Power: 0

I didn't take my car to the mechanics, because I don't know any mechanics that are trustworthy.

Summary:

I power slid into a curb doing about 15 mph, tops, on a right turn. The curb was about 7 inches tall, but was still able to do damage.

What I know:

1.) My left control arm needs to be replaced

2.) My sway bar connector needs to be replaced

Questions:

1.) My sway bar seems to be bent upwards in the picture. Is the sway bar bent upwards because the connector was holding in all the tension, via sway bar connector, or is it broken?

2.) What else might need to be replaced, according to the pictures?


Pictures:


Under the front left side:



Under front unaffected right side:








Thank you again.

Regards,

cona

 
Rep Power: 518

FYI: Left and right are always determined from sitting in the drivers seat.
Don't stand in front of the car and call it, you will get the wrong parts every time.
On a 7th gen, I should not see the oil filter anywhere near the right side of the car. Unless your pics are backwards? I think the pics are flipped backwards.

Can you fix the pics so it isn't so confusing?



Don't worry about the sway bar itself, it will move as the other corner moves. If you only jacked up one corner off the ground, the swaybar is still attached to the other front corner and that now controls the sway bar movement.

Pic #1 I can't tell where it is bent, but I suspect it folded right where the rust colored spot is just to the right of the broken swaybar link is. The black paint will usually crinkle and flake off where the suspension parts bent.

Pic #2 I can't see anything wrong except I'm looking at the drivers side, not the right side. EDIT: PIC IS BACKWARDS

Pic #3: WARNING: I see a bad ball joint, its protective rubber boot is completely AWOL (missing) and the joint has the appearance of being rusted so I'll guess the boot has been missing for a long time. It will become dangerous as the joint wears out---if it isn't already worn out and dangerous..

 
Rep Power: 367

1) swaybars are made to twist, duh...
2) your endlinks to the swaybar are waaay weaker than the swaybar itself - they will break first so you replace a cheaper part, so good there.
3) as informed before, your control arm is bent, not the sway bar, duh!.
before looking at the swaybar, just notice HOW different the left/right control arms ARE. replace it first then go to mental masturbation. t's not your worrisome item that is outta place. it's you reference point outta place.

 
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3) as informed before, your control arm is bent, not the sway bar, duh!.
before looking at the swaybar, just notice HOW different the left/right control arms ARE. replace it first then go to mental masturbation. t's not your worrisome item that is outta place. it's you reference point outta place.


Sorry man I don't understand what your saying when you say, "mental masturbation," and "it's not your worrisome item that is outta place. it's you reference point outta place."

so all thats wrong is my sway bar and sway bar connector?

 
Rep Power: 518

No, man!
The lower control arm is bent, it's BENT, IT'S FREEKING BENT! (that's the outta place comment) Replace it.

The sway bar itself is fine. It is a (torsion) spring. Quit worrying about that piece. (that's the mental comment, I think)
The sway bar connector is broke. (We call it a sway bar link.) Replace it.

How about checking the wheel bearing for noise? Can you do that?
How about checking the wheel and hub flange for runout (bending) -- can you do that too?

I also seem to remember the one wheel looked like it suffered some damage too. Check that.

Then have a wheel alignment done at a good shop. If it aligns OK at that point, you might be finished. But if it won't come into specs, then something else is bent and needs more investigation to figure out what it is.


Now would be a great time to take care of that ball joint I mentioned, since the job should include a wheel alignment also.

And your pics still seem very backwards.

 
Rep Power: 186

Looking at the OP's profile, I think the car is a 7th gen canadian ep3 or si. I think that's why the pictures don't look right.

 
Rep Power: 518

Um, ok....Profile says 2002 ep3, whatever that is...dang furrin cars...

Tiny pic looks like an SI (dohc vtec sticker on the side) with a hatchback, so it must be a K engine if I can see the oil filter on the right side?.... Wish I would have known that earlier. I feel like an idiot now. Thanks a freekin lot. LOL

 
Rep Power: 367

:Hithead:

 
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Thank you, all, for your help, and support.

Hopefully, I can buy all the parts that need to be replaced today.

I might install them myself, and post some pictures.

Again, thank you.

 
Rep Power: 0

two more questions:

1.) Is my left axle okay?

2.) Can I drive it to the mechanics shop, or should i get it towed?

Look at the connection point between the axle and the wheel. It looks different from the non-damaged side.

Thank you.

 
Rep Power: 518

1) Yes. Wait.....point out exactly which part you are calling an axle first. Ball joint is a big problem, not axle.
2) Once all of the wheels can point forward again, I'd drive it to the alignment shop.

 
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Is the ball joint broken??

 
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Also, there is a mechanic that wants to charge me 200$ for installation of the LCA and the sway bar link.

I already have the parts; i'm just paying for labor.

Is 200$ too expensive to replace two parts?

 
Rep Power: 518

The part you circled is a C.V. Joint, it is part of the axle.

 
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Does it look broken in anyway?

and what do you think of the repair costs?

 
Rep Power: 518

Looks fine from here.

The ball joint on the other side is a big problem. I can't really answer that, everything varies.

I would expect that price to include a proper 4-wheel alignment though.......

 
Rep Power: 0

Im probably going to get the this: the lower ball joint

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...mString=search


Questions

1.) Is there an upper ball joint for the, Honda Civic 2002 SI, because on the Auto Zone website it says, "upper ball joint", and "lower ball joint"?

2.) Do i have to replace both, left and right, ball joints?

3.) How much do you think repair would be on replacing a ball joint?

4.) With this problem, am I safe to drive my car to a mechanics shop 7 miles away, or should i get it towed there?

 
Rep Power: 518

Link fail. Is your car equipped with front upper ball joints? (Not on a US car.) You may replace the bad one(s) once you figure out which, if any, are bad. Not really trying to offend here, but F* it, I know it probably will:
Considering that you are shopping DangerZoo, you will not DIY this job, you will now rely on a mechanic and/or a shop you don't know anything about (unknown quality and integrity), and you apparently can't evaluate some of these things that need to be confirmed visually......
I'd say you are about to lose your butt no matter what.

This is why you need to have a competent and trustworthy mechanic. Is the ball joint in question actually bad yet? How bad is it?
Have you replaced the control arm yet?
Is the other arm in need of replacement, are the bushings worn out yet?
Do all 4 tires point straight ahead?
Can you afford a couple of new tires on top of everything else? (Because you will rapidly EAT the tread off of the front tires if they both point different directions.)



Read this thread below. What may sound like a simple ball joint replacement in your mind may not be the proper repair.
This poor guy had a shop replace a ball joint.......and see what happened to his car. A cheap ball joint job turned into something FAR more expensive than if it had been fixed properly the first time. Read......

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/4...er-assmnt.html

Remember, when you jack around on brakes and suspension without knowing what you are doing, the lives of yourself, and others that have to share the road with you, may be at stake.


The cheapest people often spend the most.

The learning curve always takes a turn through your wallet.

Sufficient ignorance is inidistinguishable from malice.

 
Rep Power: 0

What did you mean when you said, "I'm shopping at DangerZoo"?

Whats wrong with Auto Zone parts?

1.) Is the ball joint in question actually bad yet? How bad is it?

After the accident I drove it to my friends house to look under the car. It seemed fine. Other than the alignment being way off, I did not notice anything different in how the car drove.


2.) Have you replaced the control arm yet?

Not yet, I plan on getting that installed by a mechanic

3.) Is the other arm in need of replacement, are the bushings worn out yet?

No the other arm is fine. My friend says my bushings looked fine.


4.) Do all 4 tires point straight ahead?

No. The left, affected, side is not pointing entirely straight here is a picture of both right and left wheels, pointing straight.

Not affected side:


Affected side:




5.) Can you afford a couple of new tires on top of everything else? (Because you will rapidly EAT the tread off of the front tires if they both point different directions.)

No, I cant.

 
Rep Power: 210

The problem with Auto Zone is that they make sales based on price. That means that the parts they stock will often be the cheapest available and quality to match. If they are selling a Gates belt or a Timken bearing there is no problem but if the wheel bearing is a Chinese "Tinken" or something like that then you are taking your chances. If you know which are quality brands and which parts affect the safety of the vehicle then you can make a decision.

I understand cost is a factor but do you realize that when you supply parts most mechanics will not proved a warranty?

 
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damn then this is going to be like a 700$ repair

 
Rep Power: 518

God invented automobile insurance, it helps out in times like this. (insert smiley here)

 
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What should I tell my insurance company?

 
Rep Power: 518

I'd tell the truth. It's easier to remember.

 
Rep Power: 313

Don't tell your insurance company. Out of pocket this. It will save you HUGE in the long run. Also check your inner and outer tie rods. I bet some damage has been done there.

 
Rep Power: 518

I think the honest and competent mechanic should be the one to do this, along with the rest of the inspections and repairs. Some companies yes, some no. YMMV. I just tossed it out there.

 
Rep Power: 367

Blue,

from what we have read so far, am afraid his DIY and stuff will end up pricier than insurance...