Rep Power: 0

So many codes it makes my wallet want to run away. 2003 civic hybrid 165k throwing codes and the list is as follows.

P1435: hybrid battery charge balance problem

P1445: hybrid battery deterioration

P1449 hybrid battery module deterioration

P1600 ima malfunction

P1601 ima malfunction lamp

P1449 ima battery overheating

P1166 o2 sensor #1

I am not sure if my entire hybrid system has gone bad, the car runs pretty good other than dropping around 20 mpg. We were getting around 50 MPG and now we around 30 MPG.

The worst thing is that we still owe $5k on this thing, does anyone have any suggestions on what all we would need to fix it, dealer cost, or maybe just saying the hell with it, its been great but that element looks much nicer...maybe that ridge line would sit nicer in our driveway lol.

Thanks all

 
Rep Power: 518

P1166 A/F sensor (S1) heater circuit: is probably just a bad sensor.



The p1449 code is just a bad (deteriorated) IMA battery. Cut and dry, plain and simple. No further testing is needed for that one.

The rest of the IMA codes appear to be related to that, except your P1445 is defined as "Bypass Contactor Problem".
Needs the IMA battery first before worrying about that code IMO.
.


Go to a dealer ASAP. The IMA battery warranty was extended for USA cars by 12 months and 12,000 miles (not sure about Canada), you may still have coverage. (Depends on what your original IMA battery warranty was though, either 8 or 10 years is now 9 or 11 years.)

Get this taken care of ASAP. You will break your leg trying to kick your own butt if you waited too long.


You may want to check the Honda site and see if you can learn anything more there,

http://automobiles.honda.com/information/owner-resources.aspx

or call the customer assistance hotline and ask them to see what your IMA battery warranty coverage is. Have your VIN ready.

http://automobiles.honda.com/informa...spx?Question=4


HTH

 
Rep Power: 518

You KNOW whos fault that is.

The Element looks like it needs 2 huge slices of bread sticking up from the roof.

Gas mileage is a killer.

 
Rep Power: 186

I'm not understanding the relevance of that statement. Can you please clarify? If he paid a fair price for it, then how is it a "fault" on his/her part? Sorry if I'm just slow tonight.

 
Rep Power: 518

You, Sir, are giving me static?
*ahem* https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...ml#post4633594

Anyway...
Sounded like a buyers remorse statement to me, and had no relevance or bearing on the code issues stated in the original post. Not my problem.
It doesn't matter if OP is upside down or owns the car free and clear, the car is still broken. That's what I'm here for.

If he is lucky, the majority of the fix will be covered by the warranty extension.

 
Rep Power: 186

Ok, I'm just really slow tonight. And you, the magnificent dealer tech, never need to address me that way again. I was just very very slow and didn't get it. My apologies.

 
Rep Power: 518

What way was that? Was something offensive? Let me know so I can keep doing it!


BTW Where did the OP go? The green light was still on when I finished my first reply.

 
Rep Power: 186

Calling me "Sir". I work for a living.

 
Rep Power: 186

Wasn't feeling that on his post. I think he was just pointing out his situation and whether on not it made economical sense to take on the repair cost if he had to cough it up. JMO.

 
Rep Power: 0

Thank you, I don't have a buyers remorse we love our Honda. The fact is no matter what kind of car it is or how much you love it, if you $5k on a car and the resale is less than $3k we on earth would anyone spend $3k trying to fix it. No car is worth that...unless we are talking about the one you lost your virginity in, lol.

Ezone thank you I will check warranty

 
Rep Power: 0

OK called my local Honda service department a few minutes ago and based on codes I need a new ima battery, a new ima mod, a new ima heat sink, 02 sensor,

Are any of these issues covered under warranty...NO

The warranty on an ima system is 8 year or 150k.

Maybe if we hadn't drove the heck out of it we would be covered under the year

So to answer the question that is stated in the title... that's a big fat negative ghost rider
We will be visiting the stealer for something new....that is under warranty

Thanks guys

 
Rep Power: 210

its not normal under any circumstances to finance a vehicle for OVER 10 YEARS!....holy crap, he is going to end up paying 3 times the cost of the car in intrest....3-5 years is the norm

oweing 5 grand on a 10 year old car is crazy

 
Rep Power: 0

You are so right it is completely crazy this is and was my wife's car before we were married, and in turn now my car. She paid $14k for it with 3ok miles on it in 2005 and has got 135k miles on it since she/we have owned it. We have refinanced a couple times and only make the minimum monthly payment...we feel and look like fools and now we are paying for it for sure. In fact we should be the poster kids for how not to finance a car lol. Anyhoo we are gonna trade it in, at least if we have to owe on something it will be under warranty and newer.

 
Rep Power: 210

i would suggest at least getting an estimate on the repairs and see if any is covered under warranty, then make your decision....

you would be better off trying to sell it privately first....if you can not get at least what you owe on the car on a trade in then DONT DO IT!

if you do, you will end up repeating the same cycle you are in, and it will get worse with every vehicle you buy

 
Rep Power: 518

Someone just tried to fire the parts cannon at you over the phone, IMO.
Not every code needs parts thrown at it. Not even imaginary parts.
Heat sink? No.

I say it needs the IMA battery first, then do all the software updates that are part of the battery replacement job, then drive it and see what comes back, if anything.


Some of those codes could have been set long ago and for various reasons. They may not be accurate or current.
Tons of codes can be set when the small 12v battery gets weak, for example. If nobody ever cleared or erased those codes at that time, they would still be stored now.


Still will need the O2 sensor though, regardless. Not IMA related at all.

Maybe.

Apparently those figures are not accurate according to my (USA) info.
Are you in the USA?

Original warranties could have been 8/80 or 10/150, depending on location(?).
The newest extension (issued Dec. 2012, bulletin 12-077) raised those limits to (quoting from the bulletin here) to 9 years/96,600 miles or 11 years/170,100 miles.

This may not apply to other markets. This is US info only.

The dealer is supposed to run the VIN to find out which warranty coverage would apply to your car in particular.

Since your dealer might be "less than stellar"......

My advice is to call the customer assistance hotline and ask those nice folks what your warranty coverage REALLY is on the IMA battery.

 
Rep Power: 314

How much is a new battery?

 
Rep Power: 518

I have no idea. We have only done a couple that were paid for by the customer and I'm not really privy to the numbers.
The rest have been covered, in whole or in part, under warranty.

Bulletin 10-061: All IMA batteries are now in the reman/exchange program, meaning there are no new units available. Ordering is done through a different method, similar to obtaining a reman transmission through Honda.
If you find one in an internet parts catalog, it is not available and the price is not valid. Majestic doesn't even list it in their catalog now even though the picture is still there.

Bulletin 12-048: The junction board must be transferred from the old battery pack to the new battery pack, which involves high-voltage personal protection (linesmans gloves).

Bulletin 10-083: The new (reman) batteries also require different software because they are not identical to the original design. Apparently battery life is likely to be shortened if the new software is not loaded at the time of replacement.
All vehicle software is to be checked and uploaded if applicable at this time (according to our factory rep).





IF the OPs battery is really not covered, there are places that will rebuild the pack or sell you individual cells. If you are brave. Google for it.

 
Rep Power: 186

Yeah, that wasn't obvious dipshiit on his original post. I don't need the lecture on financing. No way I knew it was being financed for a long period of time previous to the post you quoted, jakass.

 
Rep Power: 210

uuummm....no

a jakass is somebody who can't figure out why a bolt will not go back into the same hole it was removed from....

a jakass is somebody who puts their water pump on with 3 bolts instead of all 4....

 
Rep Power: 0

Looks like I'm late in this response. I wish IMA was in the Title to make the search easier. Seems like things went from ideas to rhetoric. Some suggestions were on target.

I own a 2005 (probably in the sidebar) with a couple codes. Don't have the financing issues and DID enjoy some magnificent gas mileage on the IMA but the codes finally hit for it. I wish I was covered under warranty as some 2005 civics are-past 8yrs. Apparently it's determined by where the car was purchased or registered. I can see this only in the sense it would appear 'heat' is the major killer of this battery pack. I've taken great measures to assure air flow on mine, and quite frankly I'm still over 40mpg on steady runs and have no issues climbing or accelerating. I went for a firmware/software upgrade to open the parameters of the code (heard one owner in an outrage that's what they did for him) but mine is apparently up to date. I feel there are years still left on it and it shows no erratic activity -charging and discharging at seemingly the same rate as when it was new.
Tough decision time, financing or not, can't sell it and expect a premium for it being a Hybrid. Replacements being re-manufactured or re-conditioned IMA packs with only a three year warranty seems futile as well, especially with over $2300 repair costs still due (tax NOT included) even after $500 +/- assistance IS included.
Looks like my only choice is to sell privately-or go with a service engine light (the IMA isn't always on). Problem is if something else goes wrong I won't know it....somewhat risky. I can replace the IMA pack myself, even with NEW batteries and a much longer warranty but the price seems to stay the same. Don't want to trade it in for fear of losing out on 'the numbers'. I may opt to by a non-hybrid next round since I want to roll over 100K, I'm only at 81k at present.
On the side I do believe the savings are considerable whether or not gas is cheaper. You can't make a determination for a Hybrid based on the price of gas in my opinion. If gas goes down to $1.00/gal I'll still be driving on the equivalent of 30cents. It's a win-win until the costs of the IMA come into play, and it's pretty much my fault for not setting some bucks aside for the occasion. I'm sure I've saved over and above the cost of it over 10 years.
Any advice? Should I buy new and sell private? Should I sell with a replacement IMA?
Appreciate all.

 
Rep Power: 150

Ezone, does it make any economical sense to own a hybrid car? Some people may consider it green but considering what it takes to make the battery and dispose of it..not even sure that's true.

 
Rep Power: 518

We aren't supposed to replace the battery back until it has set related codes for battery deterioration or the like while the repair is covered under a warranty. What codes does yours have?


I guess you'd have to look at the overall prices for your car, assuming good condition with a good working battery pack.....and also figure it priced as subtracting a $$ value for needing a battery pack....
How much do you want for it?

IDK, this isn't my area. I don't place the same value on cars that others might....and most of my previous cars I kept until they were on their last leg, rusted away.
My last Buick had a family of birds living in a rust hole before I gave it to my kid...and it was in far better condition than some others I've had LOL.

IDK, not my area. I just fix em.

A scrapper should be recycling the battery pack or sending it back to the manufacturer (if possible) so it can be part of the recycling process and become repair parts.
The good ones already do dismantle and recycle before crushing whatever is left.