ezone

Still want more info concerning these items.
This sorta confirms the temp is high because the fan is operated by a separate sensor, not the same as the computer and gauge.

AC was not on? (that makes the fans run)

Were the radiator fans blowing out very hot air, or lukewarm air?
When you left it to sit and idle for 45 minutes the other day, did the fans pull HOT air out (200*F) or just lukewarm when they ran?
(trying to evaluate if heat is being dissipated effectively, also if the water pump is moving liquid efficiently)

Are you running plain water or does it have real antifreeze? (plain water boiling and causing problems)
Is the radiator "limed up"? (tubes full of calcium and lime deposits)

Is the thermostat OEM?




I've probably got more questions than you have answers.

I'm suspecting the radiator can't shed its heat efficiently (you're sorta describing it acting the same way a car would if it had 75% of its radiator blocked off by cardboard.)......Could be due to poor airflow while driving fast on the road, or calcium buildup inside it from hard water deposits.

Zed

The radiator cap is good, it's from the Honda dealer.
The thermostat is also genuine Honda.
Explain for me - Is the cooling system damaged?
While the head was at the machine shop, I took the time to clean the calcium and lime deposits out of the block.
The air conditioning system has to be gassed up, so no, the AC was not on at the time.
Would have to do the idle test again with the scan tool on to see at what temp the fans kick in at.

Your idea about the radiator sounds good, How do I get it cleaned out though? Or do I have to buy a new one?

ezone

If you found significant deposits in the block (if that's truly what they were, and in the water jacket), guess then what is probably all throughout the rest of the cooling system too......

If you remove the radiator cap, can you look straight down and see any of the core tubes inside? Is there any buildup in them?




Most would buy a new cheapo radiator for about $100 or so here..

You could try other things if you really thought it feasible, at least if there is any improvement at all you know you are on the right track.

Have you flow-tested the radiator to evaluate restriction?

If you wish to try this stuff I think it best to remove it from the car first.



I've heard Muriatic Acid works too, but it's dangerous.

Zed

Ok, so I tried Muriatic Acid and even though I made sure to dilute it, after about 3-4 mins of my pouring it in, I heard the sound of beer cans opening and acid started pouring out of the core in a few places. Got frustrated, slammed the hood down and left it.

So today bought a new radiator and fitted it. Topped up with coolant and bled the system as best I could. So far so good, temps are rock solid while idling, fans are kicking in even better now. Will road test this weekend and hope for the best.

Will report back.

Zed

Also Ezone,

Just so you can understand my frustration with the car and sourcing parts from the dealer and online:

Cost of radiator:

Local Dealer (OEM) - $2,241.00 BDS / $1,120.50 USD
Local Parts Store - $350.00 BDS / $175.00 USD
Amazon - $56.16 USD

Basically the barbados dollar is 2 to 1 US Dollar. I hate the dealer. Didn't make sense to order online as the final cost with shipping and duties would put it close to the cost of the local parts store, so bought from local parts store instead.

ezone

Holy. Cow. That's HIIIIIGHer than Snoop Dogg and Willie Nelson together.





I thought dealer list was bad here at nearly 3x what aftermarket wants for a radiator.

Zed

Add at least a two week delay to ordering anything and you understand my frustration. If this doesn't solve this problem now, I'm done with this car. I'll be passing it on to someone else.

Zed

So knock on wood, I've been road testing all day and the overheating issue has not resurfaced at all.

ezone

Good!
I bet if you were to break the top tank off of your old radiator, it would look like the left pic inside?


Hard water and neglect can cause some serious issues to a closed cooling system.

I hope you got premixed coolant so you don't have to use your local water, and I also hope that the rest of your cooling system was cleaned well enough that residue doesn't harm your new radiator.

Zed

Yep, using premixed coolant. I don't do the water thing with any of my cars. So far so good.

Zed

So it's been a few days. And all is still well. I think finally I may be able to enjoy this car.

ezone

Good to hear it!

Happy holidays

Zed

Thanks a million for your help thus far ezone and Happy Holidays to you as well!

Zed

Last problem guys, I swear.

So I'm getting ready to take the car for an alignment and inspection. The bushings in the front LCAs were bad, so we replaced those, did the ball joints etc as well. The front passenger side wheel has positive camber. This was noted before we did the work we did, but we assumed something was bent. However, the LCAs were good, just wanted bushings.

Is this something an alignment will correct or do I have a bigger problem on hand? Also, discovered that the CV joint on same side is going bad, so I'm looking to change that this weekend.

What do you guys think?

ezone

The factory does not normally provide real adjustments for camber. Camber is not adjustable without extra work.

Are both sides equally leaning? If they are, then maybe it will be ok.




Clobbered? Potholed? Curbed?
LCAs not bent?
See if the bottom of the strut and/or the top of the knuckle are bent.


Use the finger gap test: Between the inboard lip of the rim, and the strut. Compare both sides.

If they feel different, then you probably have SOMEthing bent.

(If they feel the same, then an alignment with readings of SAI/IA (and someone that can interpret those numbers) can be used to figure out if the lower ball joint is not in the correct place.)


Sometimes you have to actually check the alignment before you can figure out if anything is really wrong.

Zed

Nope, just the passenger side. (Passenger side for you guys, but driver side for me.)


I believe that same side of the car did see a slight clobber. Fender was replaced for sure. I had to cut the hole for the indicator. When we had the arms off, they looked identical. I had also replaced the shock mount and struts.


I'll have to wait till this weekend it seems. Don't have a garage, and it's been raining nonstop.

Zed

Ok, so final issue I think. Sometimes while driving the car, if I come to a stoplights and stop for a while or am in heavy traffic, or am just idling, sometimes the engine will seem to stumble and recover.

The car drives perfect now. This only happens while idling. Can anyone shed some light on this one?

Zed

Bump.

ezone

Oh, now I remember where you are.... Scrolled to find the cruddy radiator pictures.



Is the timing of the miss rhythmic at all? Like every so many seconds it coughs once, then the same number of seconds later it coughs again?

Totally random and sporadic?
Fuel quality problem? Maybe take a sample, pull the pump out and check for water in the bottom of the tank?
Spark plugs? Have you pulled them out and looked at what they look like?





Idle relearn?

Zed

The miss isn't rhythmic at all. It's totally sporadic and random. I've been keeping the tank at half in an effort to rule out fuel quality. I've also been using Shell V-Power as a standard as well. Problem still happens.

I've not pulled the plugs, will do so.

Could the cam or crank sensor be the cause of such though? I have two spare cam sensors. (ordered them by accident).

ezone

I would expect codes related to one of the sensors if it were a problem..... but that doesn't rule out the possibility.

Zed

This is my ride after alot of TLC and help from you guys, especially Ezone!!! Only code left is for the catalytic converter, but I'm very happy with it now!

ezone

Zed

So developed a problem where one of my rear calipers seized. Does anyone know if the EP3 rear calipers are the same? I've got an opportunity to get a mint pair. And I'd prefer to do that than to rebuild as I'd have to order the rebuild kit and that takes time.