Zed

Hi Guys,

I'd like your input please. I just bought a 2001 Civic EX with Auto Tranny. The engine is the D17A9. It has been parked for a year and a half prior to my purchase. What follows are the problems I have experienced thus far.

1. Car was starting then shutting down after 2 seconds. After researching on this forum, I checked the timing and it was off by a tooth. After setting it properly, the car started and idled just fine.

2. After getting past that, I tried revving the car out slowly and it revs out to 5000 rpm before the ECU fuel cuts it. Remember, it's normal, it's an automatic and it's in Park. If I try to rev it out quickly, it sputters horribly. What could be the problem there please? Also after trying to rev it out, the idle then starts to jump between 1000 and 1500rpm and will keep doing that until I shut it off. I already cleaned the IACV, what else can I do?

3. Car will overheat randomly while just sitting there with the engine running. I checked and the car does not have a thermostat. Water pump is working fine. The fans cut in and out. The temp when it starts to rise, rises very slowly, I don't let it get over the half mark properly before I shut down the car. Please note, I haven't driven the car as yet, I want to solve the engine issues before having it move under its own power. I believe the headgasket is going. My question therefore is, are the headgaskets between the D17A line of engines identical? My local parts store has the headgasket for the D17A8 and says it might not be compatible with my D17A9. I think it will, but i want to be sure.

4. My CEL is lit up as well as the D light is blinking. I know I have to pull the codes and I know where the diagnostic plug is, which pins do I ground though. I have found plenty of stickies in my research that give the codes, but don't say how to pull them without the help of a diagnostic tool.

Thanks for any help you can provide. I am in Barbados.

Zed

Help anyone???

ezone

Your plug connector looks like this?




Start with codes for the engine and transmission. You need to use a scan tool of some sort (or a code reader). Hopefully one that has the ability to display engine and trans data.

I can only help if the codes are in USA OBD2 format (Pxxxx), I don't have info for blinking light codes. (Jumper terminals 4 (black) and 9 (brown) to get flash codes, IF it will.)

Where was the car originally sold (country or designated market)?

Codes first. See if the answers are there.
If no, then fuel pressure test, maybe backpressure test.


The fuel in the tank is HOW OLD??
Old gas makes cars run really bad.
Get fresh fuel before worrying much about this.
Drain out as much old fuel as you can before you put in fresh.



Where were you looking at when you decided it has no thermostat?

While you have the scan tool connected to read codes, run the engine and watch the coolant temperature on the datalist. See what it says when your temperature gauge shows it is hot.

That may not be hot at all. Half on the gauge is a normal area.

Again, do the codes first. Maybe the answer will be there.


These usually pump the cooling system with air while pushing coolant out of the radiator and into the reservoir.


HTH

Zed

Going by the car tomorrow. Walking with a gas can.

I was checking the cooling system to diagnose the overheating. Found out the previous owner was running the car without a thermostat installed.

Yes my diagnostic plug looks like that. I will try to pull the codes tomorrow and report back here.

Thanks for your help thus far.

ezone

Remember, drain as much old fuel out as you possibly can. I don't know if the tank actually has a drain plug on the bottom or not, I usually operate the fuel pump manually with jumper wires to empty a tank (I'm lazy!)

Dumping a gallon or two of fresh gas on top of a half tank of stale gas won't help much of anything (if the old gas is actually one of the problems).

Zed

Ok, I think I have found some answers.

Borrowed a scan tool today and came up with one code - P1753 - Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid. When I checked that, the connector was broken, so that explains my flashing 'D' on the cluster. So must get one of those.

Also, started the car and realized that while the engine is cold, the car revs out cleanly, and the ECU tries to keep the car at a temperature of 92 degrees Celsius. It is only when the car eventually starts to overheat and temperature starts to climb that it starts to sputter when revved. As the gauge on the dash rose, I could see the temperature reading on the scan tool's live data feed increase incrementally as well. At the halfway mark, the fans no longer shut off and the scan tool was registering a temp of 111 degrees celsius.

So I'm going to pull the head down this weekend and send it to the machine shop to get checked same time.

Anything else I should be on the lookout for?

ezone

Is the radiator completely full of coolant?
That sounds like it may have a thermostat that is stuck closed.
(Assuming the radiator is full of coolant).

Or maybe a ton of bugs/dirt/sand in the fins of the radiator, or something blocking airflow through it.


If the radiator is really low of coolant, that could certainly cause overheat.
A leaking head gasket can cause this, that leads to overheat.

Zed

The radiator is low on coolant, but there are bubbles coming up in the reservoir bottle. I have to keep topping it up each time I go visit the car.

Radiator is fine, already hosed it down.


Agreed, pulling the head this weekend.

ezone

If you can start with the radiator completely full and end up with bubbles pushing the coolant out and into the reservoir, then you probably need the head gasket job.
Check the head for flatness and have it machined flat if necessary.

I think .002" is max allowable warpage (did not look).

04 Honda Civic

iTrader: (2)

I wouldnt start pulling the head just yet.
Does your heat work?
Make sure your coolant is full with NO air pockets.

Make sure the fans are working.
I would at least get a block tester to verify before pulling the head.
Or get some sort of verification before pulling the head.

You do know what your getting yourself into if you pull the head right?

Zed

Yes my heat works.

I have already burped the cooling system by jacking the front of the car up and allowing the air trapped inside to escape from another DIY on either this or another forum.

The fans are working, no problem. At this point, I'm pretty sure it's the headgasket. I know what I'm in for, will report back as more happens.

Zed

So I pulled the head. Gasket has slight wear on it. However, I note that the previous owner was apparently using water instead of coolant, so there is carbon buildup in the water jackets in the block. Is there any way to clean these safely?

ezone

????



IDK
*shrugs*


Check the radiator cap and the neck of the radiator. Make sure they will hold pressure, maybe it was boiling the water.

04 Honda Civic

iTrader: (2)

How does using water cause carbon buildup?
Not sure what to make of that.

I assume the carbon is there because of the exhaust gas getting into the coolant/water jackets.

Put it all back together and fill it with water, and prestone cleaner. Follow the instructions on the conatainer.
I have had good results with that stuff, and it wont harm your cooling system.

Zed

Ok guys, thanks for all the replies and help.

I've had the headgasket done and the overheating issue is gone. I've discovered that the flashing D light is the 'torque converter clutch solenoid switch' which is located to the top of the tranny on the external. The connector on it is broken so I'm ordering one asap.

I've got one more issue that I'd like your help with.

The car starts and idles just fine now and no longer overheats since the headgasket job. However, if I touch the accelerator to send the revs up and then come off, the car starts to rev up and down as if the IACV is bad or dirty. I've tried cleaning it to no avail. Is there something else I should check?

Thanks for any help.

ezone

This sounds familiar.....
Read through this entire thread, there are two pages and it is lengthy. Your answer MIGHT be in here.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...worse-now.html

Zed

So another problem surfaced yesterday. Vtec System Malfunction. I have, using the service manual narrowed it down to the Vtec Oil Pressure Switch. I'm wondering if there is a way to bypass this until the new one arrives (two weeks). Right now the car is limiting at 3700rpm, very frustrating.

ezone

Is the engine full of oil?

Hmmm...Internal engine work just done recently......

Is the VTEC filter screen full of debris?

How's the oil pressure?

Zed

To be honest, i did the continuity test on the oil pressure switch and got nothing. And one of the pins on it is shaking. So I didn't dig further. Everything else seems fine.

What's the oil pressure supposed to be? I will check the filter.

Zed

I used 10w 30 synthetic oil. Is that too light you think?

ezone

The oil cap says 5W20 for a reason.



Good enough for me.
If the switch is supposed to measure closed circuit and it wasn't, then of course replace it and then see what happens.

Zed

ezone, could I jumper the connector in the engine bay for the vtec oil pressure switch for the time being? Would that work until my new switch arrives?

ezone

May not matter.
The switch must change states when the VTEC operates. If if it doesn't, it will set a code right away, and you will be right back to limp mode again.



It's been 2 weeks already since your last post, how does it drive?

Zed

I have to take it very easy. It limits at the 4K rpm so quickly and it's a nuisance when it comes to hill climbs. I live in the Caribbean. The stealership here doesn't stock these kinds of parts. I ordered it, had to send it to a freight forwarder in miami, so then ships it here to me, then I have to wait on customs to clear it. So frustrating.

Anyway, I tried the jumper this morning, 'cause I couldn't take it anymore, and the cel disappeared right away. I let it warm up before I put my foot down properly and it accelerated as per usual.

So I will keep the jumper there till I get the switch. I'll just remember to take it easy till the engine warms up.

Zed

BTW, as for my idling issue, i have narrowed it down to a faulty PCV valve. I have gotten another and will change it out shortly. However, the very last issue I have is my brake pedal. It's rock hard when the car is off, but sinks to the floor when the car is on. I've already changed the Booster and Master Cylinder, (yes I love this car), bled them till I can bleed no more, but still the problem persists. Could the faulty PCV valve have anything to do with this?

ezone

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-p...ower-brake.htm

Pay attention to what the "vacuum check valve" is supposed to do.


I have not replaced a vacuum booster in many, many years. Extremely reliable.





Sounds like may be 2 problems.

1) Check valve is supposed to keep enough vacuum in the booster to have power assist for at least one more push of the brake pedal after the engine is shut off.
Most will give 2 pumps of the pedal before the assist is depleted.
You don't have that?

2) Pedal should never "go to the floor". Mechanical or hydraulic problem.

Zed

You were right ezone, check light came back, so back to waiting on the switch.

Think my tranny is shot though. Suddenly died this evening without any warning whatsoever. Had to turn the car off then back on to get it to select a gear and even then it was weak.

ezone

That isn't sounding good...

Zed

The transmission appears to go now when the car warms up. What could this be? The fluid is clean and clear.

ezone

Do you shut it off, wait 30 seconds, then start it up and drive for a short while again?
Does it make a whine noise when it stops moving?




Do you want me to guess it needs a trans now?