Rep Power: 0

This morning on my way to the BMV my 2003 Civic DX started right up without the least bit of hesitation like always. (This car has never given me any trouble until now)

Anyways, driving for about 25-30 mins, parked car and went on about my business into the BMV, come out after maybe 10 minutes tops, upon sticking the key in the ignition and turning into the on position I notice my gauges go erratic and many weird little clicking noises( something like i've never experienced before) I'm thinking great! Just beautiful! After dumping all this money into a new motorcycle and becoming essentially broke, my car decides it's not getting enough attention.

So finally after convincing some nearby landscaper to help give me a jump the car still wont start, but now with the jumpers hooked up at least it sounds like it's beginning to crank( before no crank, no nothing) finally after some long pauses and exchanging tid bits of information to form a few dubious hypothesis as to the cause of this problem, both landscaper and I agree to give it one more shot. Success! it starts, I drive home, park it, and test the battery. Battery has 13v a little high, after removing the surface charge its down to around 12.59 which is almost textbook good. Remove battery connections and theres a little corrosion, no biggie I clean it off, reconnect, and attempt to start.

To my dismay same problem, erratic gauges,noises (none of the right kind) and nothing electrical is really working(no lights blinkers etc.) Sorry for the rant, thought the more details the better, So if anyone has any ideas where i should start the diagnosis please due tell, I'm thinking along the lines of ignition/ electrical components (Ie. PCM,relays, switches)

 
Rep Power: 193

Did you check the volts with the car idling? Should be in the mid 14's.

 
Rep Power: 518

You got 12.5x something at the battery, right?

Load test the battery.

Or test voltage on the battery POSTS while cranking the engine.

 
Rep Power: 812

battery voltage is pretty meaningless. it will give you an idea on state of charge only assuming its in good working condition. if its bad you can have 12.6v and as soon as you put a demand it will drop to a few volts. how old is the battery? more than likely its very weak. the battery operates all electricals with the engine off. i would also have the charging system checked because ive never seen an alternator that can charge a battery to 13v on its own. with a smart charger and a fairly new battery you can get 13.2v max, but not with alternator. it could be overcharging by the alt ruined the battery. is yours a sealed battery? or does it have those vent caps. if it does, carefully pop them off (wearing goggles) and check the fluid level. if there is any metal plate above water, battery is toast. if fluids are low, add distilled water to bring the level within an inch of the top and then recharge with something like battery tender pro.

 
Rep Power: 0

Today I called up the local garage and made an appointment for them to look at it. To get it started required some third gear bump starting technique which works wonders in a pinch. Now I did test the battery voltage while engine was running and the meter read 14.6ish volts can't quite remember the exact numbers but it was in that ballpark of 14.5+ Once running the car works flawlessly, everything lights blinkers radio etc. The car wont die either. I'm really doubting that the battery has anything to do with it, I tested it several times but I realize my test may have been inconclusive. In all my past experiences a dying battery has given me a warning signs such as a slow crank the morning prior to it dying, or I have left something on in the vehicle to cause it to drain.

Im really interested in what the EXPERTS find to be the cause, after I described to them the problem they suggested that the starter or the contacts may be suspect. Whats got me confused is the fact that with the key on the alleged fully charged battery would not allow the fuel pump to purge, the lights wouldn't work, and all the gauges where going haywire with clicking noises coming from the under hood fuse box. Guess I can do nothing now but await my demise from what I expect to be a big bill that includes replacement of some expensive complex system.

 
Rep Power: 193

So the car starts normal when you have jump it and runs fine when you remove the cables?

You only have the crazy stuff when you're trying to start it on its own?

Sounds like a bad battery.

 
Rep Power: 183

I might not know any better but.
Did you check if the fuses & relays in the fuse box are in good shape ?
A clicking sound in the fuse box might be related to a relay.
When you say all the gauges go crazy, what are the gauges exactly that go erratic?

 
Rep Power: 253

This is what I do. Shouldnt drop below 9.6 volts under load. If it does the battery is no good.