P0135 O2 Heater Sensor - Sensor replaced; CEL still on.
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P0135 O2 Heater Sensor - Sensor replaced; CEL still on.
Apologies - mistake in the title - CEL should instead be "Maintenance Required."
Edit again: So ... Maintenance Required ... doesn't mean there's a problem and I can just reset that shiz?! Uuuhm, trying now.
Final edit: Well, so long as Maint Req doesn't indicate a problem, and my CEL is off, I'm gonna call this a success. I'm leaving this up as an example of what everything should read ... anyone, feel free to correct me.
This is a 2004 Civic VP (DX)
P0135 is the upstream (before cat) sensor.
I replaced it with Bosch part# 13680; Amazon verified the fit. It is a wide band sensor
Multimeter readings: all measured with engine cold:
On Sensor:
Terminal 3 and 4 read 0.9 ohms This is interesting because everything I'm seeing says this should read between 10 and 40 ohms. BUT! I can't get a hold of a service manual specific to my vehicle, so I can't verify this.
Terminal 3 to body ground: open
Terminal 4 to body ground: open
On Connector Tethered to Car: Read with key set to ON:
Voltimeter between Terminal 3 and 4: 9.5 Volts This is interesting because in many places, I'm seeing this should be 12 volts. BUT! I can't find anything specific to my vehicle.
Terminal 3 to body ground: open
Terminal 4 to body ground: open
After pulling fuses 6 and 9 (ECM and Backup) and waiting (ECM Reset Verified by clock and presets clearing on stereo):
Maintenance Required Light is still on. I don't have a diagnostic connector, but I don't see how another code could be thrown, as I was very careful. The CEL comes on even before ignition.
Please help - I've got to pass inspection very soon.
Edit again: So ... Maintenance Required ... doesn't mean there's a problem and I can just reset that shiz?! Uuuhm, trying now.
Final edit: Well, so long as Maint Req doesn't indicate a problem, and my CEL is off, I'm gonna call this a success. I'm leaving this up as an example of what everything should read ... anyone, feel free to correct me.
This is a 2004 Civic VP (DX)
P0135 is the upstream (before cat) sensor.
I replaced it with Bosch part# 13680; Amazon verified the fit. It is a wide band sensor
Multimeter readings: all measured with engine cold:
On Sensor:
Terminal 3 and 4 read 0.9 ohms This is interesting because everything I'm seeing says this should read between 10 and 40 ohms. BUT! I can't get a hold of a service manual specific to my vehicle, so I can't verify this.
Terminal 3 to body ground: open
Terminal 4 to body ground: open
On Connector Tethered to Car: Read with key set to ON:
Voltimeter between Terminal 3 and 4: 9.5 Volts This is interesting because in many places, I'm seeing this should be 12 volts. BUT! I can't find anything specific to my vehicle.
Terminal 3 to body ground: open
Terminal 4 to body ground: open
After pulling fuses 6 and 9 (ECM and Backup) and waiting (ECM Reset Verified by clock and presets clearing on stereo):
Maintenance Required Light is still on. I don't have a diagnostic connector, but I don't see how another code could be thrown, as I was very careful. The CEL comes on even before ignition.
Please help - I've got to pass inspection very soon.
Last edited by 2004CivicVP; Apr 17, 2012 at 07:28 PM. Reason: Added additional notes
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 
Re: P0135 O2 Heater Sensor - Sensor replaced; CEL still on.
There are 3 fuses and a relay involved in supplying power to the sensor.
You COULD be measuring less than 12v because the PCM modulates the ground to the sensor heater.
Have you followed a service manual procedure for checking this stuff? Try a library? Many libraries have access to Alldata or MItchell.
Heater resistance spec I have is 3.0-3.6 ohms.
(Updated info, 10-40 ohms is apparently wrong in the service manuals.
Honda service news, Nov 06.)
It doesn't matter how cheap the Bosch sensor is, it's wrong.
Quit jacking around and just buy a factory sensor.
36531-PLM-306 is what I got out of the catalog....
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...VIN+Number+---
If you can find a correct Denso sensor in a parts store, you will be much closer than any Bosch.
HTH
You COULD be measuring less than 12v because the PCM modulates the ground to the sensor heater.
Have you followed a service manual procedure for checking this stuff? Try a library? Many libraries have access to Alldata or MItchell.
Heater resistance spec I have is 3.0-3.6 ohms.
(Updated info, 10-40 ohms is apparently wrong in the service manuals.
Honda service news, Nov 06.)
It doesn't matter how cheap the Bosch sensor is, it's wrong.
Quit jacking around and just buy a factory sensor.
36531-PLM-306 is what I got out of the catalog....
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...VIN+Number+---
If you can find a correct Denso sensor in a parts store, you will be much closer than any Bosch.
HTH
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Rep Power: 0 Re: P0135 O2 Heater Sensor - Sensor replaced; CEL still on.
See, I don't get why Bosch can't get their stuff together. Isn't there someone in their legal department yelling and screaming about potential class action lawsuits? Evidently, Bosch has botched their stuff for years. It's hard to believe, and I'm hoping this sensor will last me until I pass emissions (See first paragraph of initial post).
Thank you for the heater resistance spec; I'll check my local library as well. It seems I'm out of spec on both the ecm voltage and the heater resistance, so I'm definitely worried, even though my ECM seems happy.
Odd, though: I can't get my Maint Req light off. I even watched a video of exactly what to do, and the thing won't go off. Maybe it has something to do with the reason why my odometer/tripometer illuminator is out, but of course that could just be the bulb. The odometer does switch to trip when I press the button.
Thank you for the heater resistance spec; I'll check my local library as well. It seems I'm out of spec on both the ecm voltage and the heater resistance, so I'm definitely worried, even though my ECM seems happy.
Odd, though: I can't get my Maint Req light off. I even watched a video of exactly what to do, and the thing won't go off. Maybe it has something to do with the reason why my odometer/tripometer illuminator is out, but of course that could just be the bulb. The odometer does switch to trip when I press the button.
There are 3 fuses and a relay involved in supplying power to the sensor.
You COULD be measuring less than 12v because the PCM modulates the ground to the sensor heater.
Have you followed a service manual procedure for checking this stuff? Try a library? Many libraries have access to Alldata or MItchell.
Heater resistance spec I have is 3.0-3.6 ohms.
(Updated info, 10-40 ohms is apparently wrong in the service manuals.
Honda service news, Nov 06.)
It doesn't matter how cheap the Bosch sensor is, it's wrong.
Quit jacking around and just buy a factory sensor.
36531-PLM-306 is what I got out of the catalog....
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...VIN+Number+---
If you can find a correct Denso sensor in a parts store, you will be much closer than any Bosch.
HTH
You COULD be measuring less than 12v because the PCM modulates the ground to the sensor heater.
Have you followed a service manual procedure for checking this stuff? Try a library? Many libraries have access to Alldata or MItchell.
Heater resistance spec I have is 3.0-3.6 ohms.
(Updated info, 10-40 ohms is apparently wrong in the service manuals.
Honda service news, Nov 06.)
It doesn't matter how cheap the Bosch sensor is, it's wrong.
Quit jacking around and just buy a factory sensor.
36531-PLM-306 is what I got out of the catalog....
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...VIN+Number+---
If you can find a correct Denso sensor in a parts store, you will be much closer than any Bosch.
HTH
Last edited by 2004CivicVP; Apr 17, 2012 at 07:49 PM.
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: P0135 O2 Heater Sensor - Sensor replaced; CEL still on.
See, I don't get why Bosch can't get their stuff together.
No need to.
They already make a sh!tton of profit off of their parts, Platinum plugs and all that. DangerZone pushes them because they are one of the highest gross profit items in the store, consumers love em because they don't know any better, and I only love them because I make plenty of coin diagnosing and removing them.
Some of their stuff is fine. Especially for Euro cars that were built with Bosch parts in the first place.
Isn't there someone in their legal department yelling and screaming about potential class actions lawsuits? Evidently, Bosch has botched their stuff for years. It's hard to believe,
Get a lawyer and start a suit. Good luck with that.
and I'm hoping this sensor will last me until I pass emissions (See first paragraph of initial post).
Not if the CEL light comes back on in 60 seconds.
You edited the entire first paragraph?
Damn, now its just the maint light?
Thank you for the heater resistance spec; I'll check my local library as well. It seems I'm out of spec on every one of my metrics, so I'm definitely worried, even though my ECM seems happy.
I'm confused.
Codes or not?
CEL or not?
Odd, though: I can't get my Maint Req light off. I even watched a video of exactly what to do, and the thing won't go off. Maybe it has something to do with the reason why my odometer/tripometer illuminator is out.
You have to be able to reset the trip meter with the button. If that doesn't work, then the maint light can't be reset.
Use the right button too. Only one will reset it.
When you try to reset the light, close the doors and have the headlights off.
Hold the reset button down, turn the key to ON position (do not crank it). The light will come on for a second, go off for a second, then stay on for 8 seconds. Do not let go of the button. Keep it pressed in for all of this.
Keep holding the button until the light goes out (about 10 seconds total)
'
This is all in the owners manual too IIRC.
HTH
No need to.
They already make a sh!tton of profit off of their parts, Platinum plugs and all that. DangerZone pushes them because they are one of the highest gross profit items in the store, consumers love em because they don't know any better, and I only love them because I make plenty of coin diagnosing and removing them.
Some of their stuff is fine. Especially for Euro cars that were built with Bosch parts in the first place.
Isn't there someone in their legal department yelling and screaming about potential class actions lawsuits? Evidently, Bosch has botched their stuff for years. It's hard to believe,
Get a lawyer and start a suit. Good luck with that.
and I'm hoping this sensor will last me until I pass emissions (See first paragraph of initial post).
Not if the CEL light comes back on in 60 seconds.
You edited the entire first paragraph?
Damn, now its just the maint light?
Thank you for the heater resistance spec; I'll check my local library as well. It seems I'm out of spec on every one of my metrics, so I'm definitely worried, even though my ECM seems happy.
I'm confused.
Codes or not?
CEL or not?
Odd, though: I can't get my Maint Req light off. I even watched a video of exactly what to do, and the thing won't go off. Maybe it has something to do with the reason why my odometer/tripometer illuminator is out.
You have to be able to reset the trip meter with the button. If that doesn't work, then the maint light can't be reset.
Use the right button too. Only one will reset it.
When you try to reset the light, close the doors and have the headlights off.
Hold the reset button down, turn the key to ON position (do not crank it). The light will come on for a second, go off for a second, then stay on for 8 seconds. Do not let go of the button. Keep it pressed in for all of this.
Keep holding the button until the light goes out (about 10 seconds total)
'
This is all in the owners manual too IIRC.
HTH
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2012
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Rep Power: 0 Re: P0135 O2 Heater Sensor - Sensor replaced; CEL still on.
It failed emissions and they pulled the code. The CEL light was on. After my maintenance, the CEL light is off, and the Maint Req'd light was and still is on. Since this is the first time I've done CEL maintenance, I confused the two lights ... until I saw the Maint Req'd sticky.
This is a VP, and I only have one button. I've followed all instructions to the tee and it's still on. I held it for two minutes and it's still on. The normal functions of the button work fine. According to the sticky, it seems there's something wrong with my cluster.
I actually added the first paragraph.
You edited the entire first paragraph?
Damn, now its just the maint light?
I'm confused.
Codes or not?
CEL or not?
Odd, though: I can't get my Maint Req light off. I even watched a video of exactly what to do, and the thing won't go off. Maybe it has something to do with the reason why my odometer/tripometer illuminator is out.
You have to be able to reset the trip meter with the button. If that doesn't work, then the maint light can't be reset.
Use the right button too. Only one will reset it.
When you try to reset the light, close the doors and have the headlights off.
Hold the reset button down, turn the key to ON position (do not crank it). The light will come on for a second, go off for a second, then stay on for 8 seconds. Do not let go of the button. Keep it pressed in for all of this.
Keep holding the button until the light goes out (about 10 seconds total)
'
This is all in the owners manual too IIRC.
HTH
This is a VP, and I only have one button. I've followed all instructions to the tee and it's still on. I held it for two minutes and it's still on. The normal functions of the button work fine. According to the sticky, it seems there's something wrong with my cluster.
I actually added the first paragraph.
You edited the entire first paragraph?
Damn, now its just the maint light?
I'm confused.
Codes or not?
CEL or not?
Odd, though: I can't get my Maint Req light off. I even watched a video of exactly what to do, and the thing won't go off. Maybe it has something to do with the reason why my odometer/tripometer illuminator is out.
You have to be able to reset the trip meter with the button. If that doesn't work, then the maint light can't be reset.
Use the right button too. Only one will reset it.
When you try to reset the light, close the doors and have the headlights off.
Hold the reset button down, turn the key to ON position (do not crank it). The light will come on for a second, go off for a second, then stay on for 8 seconds. Do not let go of the button. Keep it pressed in for all of this.
Keep holding the button until the light goes out (about 10 seconds total)
'
This is all in the owners manual too IIRC.
HTH
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 32,017
Likes: 256
From: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Rep Power: 518 Re: P0135 O2 Heater Sensor - Sensor replaced; CEL still on.
Damnit man! I thought my reading comprehension problem was showing again.
You sneaky SOB.
We have a 3 or 4 cars (all are older Accords IIRC) that can't be reset, they have the switch behind that button broken, you cannot switch or reset the trip meter mileages--therefore you cannot reset the maint light either.
The rest of the cars I see can be reset, but some don't like for the lights to be on or the doors open. Some take more than one try. Some are more finicky than others.
This is C&P from the service info:
How to Reset
Push and hold the trip/reset button, turn the ignition switch ON (II), and continue to hold the button for more than 10 seconds.
Simple, no?
LOL
Ok, if the CEL isn't on and there is no codes RIGHT NOW, then it ought to pass the emission test for the codes right now. The computer is happy, don't mess with it.
The maint req'd light does not have any bearing on emissions or the computer. If someone tells you otherwise, they are either flat wrong or a scammer.
That maint light is controlled entirely within the gauge cluster and comes on by a mileage counter from the odometer. That's all, that's it.
HTH
You sneaky SOB.
We have a 3 or 4 cars (all are older Accords IIRC) that can't be reset, they have the switch behind that button broken, you cannot switch or reset the trip meter mileages--therefore you cannot reset the maint light either.
The rest of the cars I see can be reset, but some don't like for the lights to be on or the doors open. Some take more than one try. Some are more finicky than others.
This is C&P from the service info:
How to Reset
Push and hold the trip/reset button, turn the ignition switch ON (II), and continue to hold the button for more than 10 seconds.
Simple, no?
LOL
Ok, if the CEL isn't on and there is no codes RIGHT NOW, then it ought to pass the emission test for the codes right now. The computer is happy, don't mess with it.
The maint req'd light does not have any bearing on emissions or the computer. If someone tells you otherwise, they are either flat wrong or a scammer.
That maint light is controlled entirely within the gauge cluster and comes on by a mileage counter from the odometer. That's all, that's it.
HTH
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