Xtort

Need some advice. Im new to the forums and not that wise to working on cars but would like to start.

CAR: 2001 honda civic EX 160k miles

Problem: Car runs fine on the interstate or when keeping constant speed. Once i slow down to stop, RPMS start dropping and if i let it will drop down to basicly 0 and will cut off.

Whats been repaired: Took to dealer who checked the CEL code which was camshaft and crankshaft codes. THey said the TDC sensor going out can cause these codes. THey replaced TDC sensor. Within about 30-45 mintues CEL came back on.

Autozone checked codes and i had p1491 which was an EGR valve issue. Autozone lifted hood to show me where that was located, and it wasnt even plugged in. He plugged it in and cleared the codes.

CEL came back on in about 1 day with the current code P1259 VAIRABLE VALVE TIMING ELECTRONIC CONTROL SYSTEM BANK 1 MALFUNCTION.

car still drops rpm's when slowing and cuts off. When the rpm's drop real low the oil light will also flash just for a second.


ive read alot about ICV cleaning and EGR cleaning. Can this be the issue? Also could them being dirty or bad cause a P1259 code??


Thanks for your time!

ezone

For the p1259, check the oil. Most common cause is low on oil.

If the EGR were stuck open, that could cause it to die at idle. Maybe that's why it got unplugged, to keep it from opening. You make it sound like someone wanted you to come back and spend more money, which is pretty shady if that it true.
Poor overall running condition could make it want to die.
So can a dead, dying, stuck, or clogged IAC. I can't tell which type you have, but many have a fine screen that clogs up with carbon and blocks air flow.
Needs some diagnosis.

Xtort

Thanks for the reply.

I checked the oil and yes it was low, so im going to take care of that and see if that cures the error code.

If i unplug the EGR again, if that was the issue with the stalling/low rpm when slowing would that fix the issue? Then would it be safe to guess that it needs to be cleaned or replaced?

After doing research alot of people tend to lean towards dirty/bad ICV.

Is this something a newb to cars could do? ive seen pictures but im guessing each time they have already removed the air filter box, because mine seems to be sitting on top of where the ICV should/is located.

Would like to try this myself without dealership just making me buy a new 1 and replace it.

ezone

Correct the oil problem first, before you cause serious engine damage.

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Assuming my guesses are even close to right.....

A couple of different methods for checking comes to mind.......

This is less work:
While the engine runs and idles properly, unplug the EGR valve again. Now drive the car for a while, see if the dying at idle problem has gone away. If it is gone, then it would probably be safe to assume the EGR was the fault.
If it still dies, then I would assume the IAC is the fault.

Try doing that and repost with answers?

No idea if you can DIY. I don't know what your abilities or tooling is like.


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The other method:

While the fault (slow idle and dying) is present, you could do something......but the fault has to be present in order to find anything wrong.

(Use something the size of a large screwdriver handle to tap with, not a 5lb sledgehammer, mmmkay? This stuff is plastic and sheetmetal, damage happens easily. Use some sense.)

So, while the engine is running badly:

Tap on the side (NOT the top where the wires are) of the EGR valve to see if it frees up and snaps closed, and the engine runs right. Tapping on it is much faster, just to see if it is the cause.

Tap on the IAC valve to see if it frees up and lets the engine run right.

That would be a conclusive diagnosis, if you get any results... Now you would at least know which one to deal with.


Does this look like your intake manifold?



Your IAC (part #1) is attached to the side of the throttle body. It looks to be the rotary type, so no screen to clean out. I would replace this if it sticks, but cleaning might be worth a try to save some cash. The rubber gasket would need replaced though.

Xtort

I will try that. I got the oil changed today so that part should be good now. Will drive it around tomorrow to see if the Check engine code goes away by itself. I will also try unplugging the EGR and see what that does.

With more car knowledge then me, does a bar EGR have the ability to make the car drop RPM's and cut off?

Ive read some places that all it does is help with emissions or something.

If the p1259 code was only from low oil will it normally clear itself???

Thanks for the post will be studying to try and test it out myself like you suggested!

ezone

Go to someplace like autozone, have them clear the codes.

Yes, if the EGR is open at the wrong time.

Yes it is an emissions device.

Go to someplace like autozone, have them clear the codes.

YW.


See, just seeing if the idiot light turns off by itself doesn't give immediate results. Even if the light does turn off by itself, the codes are still stored in memory.
Disconnecting the battery may not clear codes either.
Clearing the codes with a scantool erases them from memory. Clean slate.
Now there will be no question on the next try: Are these old codes or new?

Xtort

The EGR valve code was new, but it hasnt came back on since it was plugged back in correctly. This code now is also new.

Once the engine is warm, i can have it in park and rev it up to 3-4k RPM and left off the gas, then the RPM will drop to around 500, sometimes lower and then stall. Serveral people have suggested ICV cleaning, so im looking for a good video or something to follow. Like i said im pretty green at this, so videos would do me good!lol

ezone

Found this tsb
http://www.geocities.ws/pfeifferperf...AfteraStop.pdf

Here's a couple things to do before going to the dealer for the above:

1) Clean the throttle body. Here's a handy how to: http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...repair/1272341

2) Perform an Idle learn:
Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes.
Reconnect the battery.
Start the engine, hold the RPM at 3000 until the radiator fan runs.
Turn off all electrical accessories.
Shifter in Park.
Let the engine idle for 10 minutes.
Do not touch the throttle during this time.
Turn the engine off.

See what happens now when you drive it.

Xtort

Thanks, that was a good write up! I am going to atleast try and clean that and see what happens! Will have to wait until weekend again so i dont screw up anything so bad and cant get to work! will post back once i try!

araza

Hi, I have CIVIC 1998, having same problem, Please let us know did that cleaning and removing battery this process works for you?