bobsagator

iTrader: (13)

Long story short: 4 sheared off wheel studs on passenger front. Since I have to remove the hub to get new ones pressed in, what else should I do? I assume replace bearings too (OEM?). And LCA bushing appears cracked so time to step up to the ES bushings. It makes sense to get both sides done at the same time.

Is there a trick to removing the ball joint other than the joint separator? Anything else I should be prepared for? Any advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Prodresurgence

I use this method of separating my ball joints from the knuckle. http://www.tuner-junction.com/TJForu...val-trick.html Don't use a P-fork unless maybe your going to replace the ball joint.

I just replaced all 4 LCA bushings. Each arm has one bushing the sits vertically (as you probably know) and one bushing the sits horizontally. The 2 vertical bushings are easy to get get out with a pneumatic hammer, but I had to press them in with a press. I hear you can use a large vice though. The two horizontal bushings are really tough to get out even with an air hammer (you'll get it eventually, also probably easier if you have the perfect sized socket and press it out) but the horizontal ES bushing is a two-piece bushing that you can push together in the LCA by hand.

You should also get yourself a grease gun w/ a grease needle and silicone grease because these bushing do creak on turns. It helps to torque everything to spec while the suspension has weight on it - like an alignment rack, but I don't have that luxury.

I also replace my sway arm links with OEM's they were rusted to hell and I just cut them off with a grinder. $25ea

bobsagator

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the reply. Stupid question: the bearings should need to be replaced, just repacked, correct? Or should I even touch them? I have 130k+ miles so I don't see how it could hurt to have them at least repacked. So in all I'll need new wheel studs and LCA bushings. Pull the hub and LCA and then off to the tuner shop.

BTW the link didn't work, site down for maintenance. Can you describe the method? Hopefully the site will be back up by the weekend if not.

Prodresurgence

Its appears to be working today for me at least. I'll cut and paste the info but it will be a lot easier if you can see the pictures.

I wouldn't bother with the bearings unless your pretty familiar with the process. I have 140k and I am on my original bearings on all 4 tires. Couldnt hurt to repack them if you can get them back together properly - I believe they are pressed in. Dont quote me on that though.

Prodresurgence

Lower ball joint separation trick - Use physics instead of the BFH!!

We've all been there, under our car beating the crap out of the lower control arm with a BFH, we've even used a ball joint fork and destroyed the rubber boots and some of us have even tried fire!!

Anyway, using this method you will easily separate the ball joint without hurting you or the car!! and you'll do it quickly!!

1) Get the car in the air and secure it on jack stands. Remove the tire. You're gonna want to get in front of the assembly like below.

2) Place you floor jack underneath the ball joint and lower control arm and CAREFULLY lift the suspension. Make sure you screw the ball joint nut on slightly so that you don't ruin the threads while lifting. Lift the suspension until you start to raise the car. Once you do this STOP!! You don't want to lift the car, you just want to compress the suspension.

3) Whip out your handy dandy 3/8 ratchet (I think one with a square handle works the best)

4) Place the handle strategically in between the knuckle and the lower control arm. There is a small tab you can grab and wedge the tool under on the knuckle. Look at the picture, it's easier to visualize.

5) Once the handle is wedged in between the two components step back a little and lower the jack. Using the force of the car’s front spring and geometry of the suspension components physics will separate the ball joint with one large "pop"!!

This works EVERY TIME!!!

bobsagator

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, looks like the site is back up, but thanks for the info! Wish me luck...

bobsagator

iTrader: (13)

So my new motto, if it can go wrong it will go wrong. To start the spindle nut is almost impossible to get off then the axle won't back out of the knuckle. Beating and beating and it finally pushed out. Then the front LCA bushing must be seized to the bolt because the inner part just spins with the bolt, which makes the skinny metal holder pieces spread apart. And I still haven't gotten it out in fear of cross-threading the metal. So the driver's side has to be a breeze. Start with another stripped wheel stud and I was about to give up. In all the driver's side went easy.

Now I used the ball joint trick but both boots ripped, probably just too old anyway. And both endlinks are ripped too. When it is all said and done, everything from the fenderwall out will be new.

Any ideas for the LCA bushing? I am thinking we'll back it out as much as we can the torch off the end then figure some way to get the bushing and remaining bolt out. Any better suggestions?

Prodresurgence

I had the same issue on the passenger side forward bushing. Inside the bushing is a metal collar and that collar rusts itself to the bolt that holds the LCA to the subframe. The whole thing acts like a stopper. I used a grinder to cut right through the bolt and collar. I made two cuts one above the LCA but below the subframe and another cut below the LCA but once again above the subframe. So essentially your cutting the LCA free. The remaining threads in the welder nut on top of the subframe will fall out. I also had to remove my battery and battery holding pan to use a 3 foot pipe and hammer the subframe from the top to close the LCA gap again. The LCA bolt is 8 bucks at the dealer ship, make sure you get it all the way through the welded nut. If your sway bar links are ripped either unscrew them or cut them out and replace them. If you have the knuckle off you should replace the torn ball joints too.

Prodresurgence

Oh and just a quick note ....Next time you need to remove the knuckle try to use a 3 jaw puller $45 (Autozone rents them) beating on the hub can really screw up not only your alignment- which you'll need after this job anyways but it can also damage the bearings.

bobsagator

iTrader: (13)

I finally got the bushing bolt out. Lots of penetrant then I grabbed the metal of the bushing with my channellocks and was able to back out the bolt. Of course there is a cut thread on the bolt that will need to be dyed, and one in the welded nut to tap. The dealership has all the items I need in stock, except this bolt which is on backorder with no ETA. Ordered the ES bushings and a new filter from ClubRSX, hopefully be here by the weekend. So now I am back to thinking about the bearings (since you brought it up because of beating on the splindle). Can you grease them up good without taking them out of the hub or do they need to come out? I haven't looked in the hub to see if you can see them or if they are internal. Just another press to have to pay for.

And where was this 3 jaw puller recommendation before I beat on it? Live and learn...lol.

bobsagator

iTrader: (13)

Anybody know where I can find (2) Falken Hanabi wheels (15" silver)? Last time I looked they were almost everywhere, now I can't even find one.

Prodresurgence

You'll be able to see them, but I think you need to grease the opposite side that you can see - the side against the inside of the hub. You can rent the ball joint removal C clamp set at Autozone too! It comes with all the shims and hardware you need to take the ball joints out and in.

bobsagator

iTrader: (13)

Yeah, looking in the hub, you can only see the splines for the driveshaft. I'm thinking I should go ahead and have them pulled and greased up just so I don't ever have to touch them again.

bobsagator

iTrader: (13)

So I went ahead and got new bearings, and endlinks since the boots were ripped. Filed away at the bushing bolt and got the threads back to decent. Used a 12mmx1.5 rethreader (since it seems a 14mmx1.5 does not exist) on the welded nut. Rolled the rethreader around and around against all sides of the nut and finally got the bolt back through. So now everything is reassembled. Put the wheels back on and put her back down on the ground.

So, lost a lug nut originally forever ago, lost the remaining 3 for the passenger tire, and sheared another stud removing the drivers side. So I am down to 11 lug nuts. I stole 1 from each rear tire so I have 3 on drivers front and 2 on passenger front. Just need to get the front of the car onto the garage slab so I can jack up, get blocks under the wheels, and torque everything up. Never thought a gravel driveway could be such a problem. She should be rolling in a couple of days!

bobsagator

iTrader: (13)

Bought some steelies today off craiglist for temporary wheels until I can find some replacement Hanabis. Good news: decent tread and lug nuts for $150. Bad news: they're steelies from a 94 Civic and they're 13s. So I guess my car is getting an extra 1" drop. 13s shouldn't cause an issue, right? With an alignment they should work fine, just look like I'm riding on donuts.

Prodresurgence

Ha 13's! I think you'll be OK. Only 2 lugs on one tire though? Are they completely opposite each other on the hub? or are they close together?

CrewChief

iTrader: (1)

I would have invested in a set of ARP wheel studs. Never have this problem again. I got the ARP extended wheel studs for my slicks and love them. Bought a set all around. Same thing your going through happend to me. Never again.

bobsagator

iTrader: (13)

Well the 13s won't clear the calipers. So I guess I need to figure out another wheel avenue. I put the 2 lugs across from each other. I just need to get the car into the garage to get everything torqued. I'll be getting a new set of lugs before she hits the road. So close now.

bobsagator

iTrader: (13)

Finally got new tires and alignment this past weekend. So I am riding on my old Michelin Pilot XGT H4 in the front with plenty of tread, and new Falken ZE912 in the rear. I can't find replacement wheels or tires. But at least I am mobile again. Gonna give her a good month to get all the squeaks out and then push her to the limits, can't wait! Thanks for all the help!