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Sorry no pics

But i thought id write this thread be informative.

Any questions on parts, cost, or how it was done just ask.

Thanks again "Bobsagator" for the pics from the book!!!

 
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But dude, where's the write-up? I'd like to see a little writeup on it. I've taken my doors completely apart more times then I can count, but its always nice to see someone else's tricks.

 
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this thread is worthless...

 
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....without pics.

 
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lol sorry guys...

i figured id try and help a noob or two not the vets

didnt have a camera at the time...

 
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I just had to do my driverside a few minutes ago. Went to go get a Redbull and couldn't get in my car. I have sedan handles an no keyholes. DOH! Climbing through the trunk FTL!

Whole thing took me abut 30 minutes if that...

 
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so what all does changing the actuator involve.... like my passenger unlock thing works, but not all the way. It moves, but it doesn't unlock or lock all the way so i still have to raise it. Thats def my actuator right??

 
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yes lt, and all u have to do is disconnect it, and reinstall, it sucks if u have bigger hands(like myself) cuz its a tight squeeze, but overall not bad, 25 bucks from honda

 
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cool at least it wasnt expensive to buy lol

 
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looks like i have something to buy then

 
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It was 6 bolts total. Easy

 
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yah its a $25 part.

i wanted to get the sedan door handles too...

 
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I just have to ask.... how would you know if it's really the actuator that is bad? Will the driver side also affect the "other" doors from not opening or closing?

Just wanted to make sure before I go the next step. Right now, I took the panel off, I could feel the actuator when I lock/unlock but obviuosly not working. I hear the others as well but they dont work either, is that all because of the driver side?

 
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hears how you tell,

get in your car and close all the doors.

press up on the power lock toggel switch...

Im just guessing that your driver side is acting up.

if when you press the toggle and nothing happens and no sound is comming from the actuator then you diagnosed the problem...

my new actuaror is loud, real loud.

 
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it could be making a faint noise but still not working. Both my driver and passenger actuators were shot and i swapped them both. The broken ones were still making a little noise, but the new ones were much louder.

I don't think the drivers side actuator affects the other ones.

 
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good advice^

my driver went bad and my passenger was still working like a charm.

Id lock my doors and even my car alarm would arm passenger side door would lock but, driver side had to be manually locked... pissed me off forever.

 
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My point exactly, does it? Right now when I lock/unlock the toggle in the driver side, I can hear the actuators working but the driver side not as loud but none of the doors lock/unlock. So does the driver side have anything to do with the rest of the other doors? I just dont see that all 4 of my actuators can be shot.

 
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no, other actuators have zero affect on the other doors

 
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I know what you mean, I am going through that right now since NONE of them work. I have to manually open front doors with the key then pull the rod for both back doors to open them.

HELP!

 
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in my opinion there all bad...

good luck

 
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There is a status type switch in the drivers door that knows the position of the drivers lock **** (either down/ locked or up/unlocked) A test of that would be to see how long it takes for your dome light to dim when doors opened then closed again. Up/unlocked should dim after 15-20 seconds. Down/locked it will start to dim as soon as the door shuts.

If you have all 4 lock ***** up, all 4 doors closed. Push down on drivers lock **** from inside car and see what happens. (all 4 doors should lock)