boosted1.7??

well i have a turboed 7thgen but it is over heating but only after i run it hard and then come to a stop like at a light. the car heats up real fast and will cool down fast if i start to drive slowly again. i changed the thermostat any ideas. i was thinking head gasket but i have no loss of power and it only heats after running hard then stop moving

02BLKCIVIC

iTrader: (8)

my guess is head gasket

gsniper666

iTrader: (1)

i'd say headgasket and check ur coolant

boosted1.7??

yeah i my coolant levels were a little low but i have filled them. any body know where i can get cametic head gasket and some arp studs.
or have any better ideas on what else i should do while the heads off??

tuningmycivic

iTrader: (11)

are your fans working properly?

D16Z6_owner

try the fan before you go tearing **** apart. this happened to a friend after he had body work done and it would overheat while sitting. turns out the bodyshop didnt reconnect the fan.

0H3ebpEM2

iTrader: (2)

check the coolant temp sensor and the radiator fan switch. The fan switch might be bad, causing the fans to not turn on. Otherwise its your headgasket. Buy a qualitry headgasket and some ARP headstuds

boosted1.7??

yeah the fans are working but i havn't done anything to my car in a about 9 months (besides basic stuff) and it just started happining. but i don't want to go and do the head and it not be whats wrong.. what about a water pump. i took my car to a local shop and he did a sniff test and at first the car passed then he ran the car and said it had a little co ( think thats what he said) so from his " knowledge" he said the h/g was starting to seep under boost . but i was not to convinced he was sure of what he was talking about. i just want to know why it dosent start heating untill the car stops moving...

D16Z6_owner

idk if this will work but try running with no boost and see if it happens worse/better. due to my lack of turbo/ecu tuning knowlege it may not be possible

speedfoos

iTrader: (17)

ARP studs - get the ones for the D16Z6, part number is 208-4301. tunertoys.com has them for $93.90 + shipping. Cometics, I usually see them on Ebay, but I'm sure lots of other folks have them.

Sounds like your fans aren't doing their job when stopped or your radiator is "tired" (technical term). Are they both stock? Simple question but, when was the last time you changed out the coolant? Is the level low? Does it cool down when you peg the tach at say 3K (making waterpump turn faster)? Obivously air flow is cooling your car back down in a hurry when you're moving, so I would start with simple things first if you haven't.

I always have flashbacks to the lawnmower scene with "Carl" from Slingblade. When the two mechanics are scratching their heads over the motor and he goes to it, opens the cap, and says, "Needs gas."

lownloudnyc

I had this happen to my maxima and it was the radiator, it was cloged and only a smalll portion of the ratiator was cooling the coolent, replaced it with a new ratiator and it works perfect.

boosted1.7??

thanks i checked it out today and what i noticed is that the fans are comming on to late and they are only staying on for like 30 seconds and then going off but the car is still way hot. how can i fix this

Skylar1692

Same problem here.... Just started not too long ago... Any update on the cause of this? Thermo Switch?

hattori

I have the same problem. It is 97 civic dx. Water pomp and radiator is new. It cools down as quick as it warms up when I start moving. Sometimes it is ok, sometimes heat up. Do you think it is sensor or fan switch?

Any help appreciated thanks

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

It can be a few things...

Try the fans by simply turning your air conditioning on and seeing if they turn on.

If they do I'd start by trying to flush the air out of the cooling system... This is how.

Make sure the car is cold and not running.
Remove the rad cap and fill the radiator up to the top ( I bet it's empty )
Jack up the front of the car.
Start the car with the heat on FULL BLAST through the front vents and the rad cap removed and watch for air bubbles, the coolant will start to drop, as it drops down refill it. Let the car get to optimal running temperature (Where the gauge is supposed to sit)
What I do then is leave the rad cap off overnight, and when I get to the car in the morning fill the rad up the rest of the way. This just ensures all the air is gone.

Make sure you are filling up the actual radiator NOT the coolant reservoir

I bet you when they changed the water pump they did not bleed all the air out of the system

Then I'd go to Honda and replace your rad cap. Get an OEM.

If the problem persists come back here and you can do the next step

seoul4korea

+1 on fans...