New findings to stalling problem.
Hey Ronin i had the same problem with my car. It idles fine but sometimes the rpm drops to below 500 and then returns back to 750. Here's what i did to cure the problem:
1. run the engine until it gets to normal oper temp (drive around if you wish) then shut it down.
2. remove the ecu fuse from the fuse box under the hood (it's just below the 7.5 Amp one.i think it's 15 amp. there was a post recently which says to remove the 7.5 fuse, this is wrong).
3.wait for 10 mins and replace the fuse.
4.start the car without touching the acc pedal and let it run for 10 mins.
5.shut off the car and start it again.
6.shut it down again and then restart and go for a ride. That should cure the problem. during the whole process you should not touch the acc pedal.
1. run the engine until it gets to normal oper temp (drive around if you wish) then shut it down.
2. remove the ecu fuse from the fuse box under the hood (it's just below the 7.5 Amp one.i think it's 15 amp. there was a post recently which says to remove the 7.5 fuse, this is wrong).
3.wait for 10 mins and replace the fuse.
4.start the car without touching the acc pedal and let it run for 10 mins.
5.shut off the car and start it again.
6.shut it down again and then restart and go for a ride. That should cure the problem. during the whole process you should not touch the acc pedal.
Last edited by conspiracy90; Feb 4, 2005 at 06:30 AM.
Thanks for the tip, but I don't have the stalling problem anymore. Seems to have disappeared completely ever since I moved here to San Diego. The other people having this problem should give your solution a try, though.
Hi there and the rest of you guys having this "shuttering" problem. Get Honda to replace the ECU. There's a batch of ECUs that are faulty. I had mine replaced and its fine now. I have the exact same symptoms as you guys regardless of whether the aircon is on or off. Replace the ECU !!!! Don't allow them to adjust the tappets. They adjusted mine twice before confirming it was my ECU. Damn it.... I lost the precise engineered tappet clearance from Honda(Japan) because of this !!! The tappets being too tight is total bull.. don't take that excuse from the mechanics at the dealership.. get that darn ECU replaced !!!! Hope you guys get it fixed soon. Good luck. [IMG]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/IMG]
what is the idle RPM supposed to be at when the car is in Park(yeah, i have to drive auto cause i wasn't the one who paid for the car..)?
my old 02 LX coupe idled at 1200rpm when i first start the car...it'll drop to around 1000rpm after idling for about a minute and still i Park
i picked up my new 02 SiG yesterday and when i started the car, the RPM only went up to 750ish while the car is in Park(yeah, this one is automatic too cause again, i didn't pay for the car)....
is this difference in RPM normal?
both of my coupes had a date of July 2002 on that door sticker so they were made in the same month...
my old 02 LX coupe idled at 1200rpm when i first start the car...it'll drop to around 1000rpm after idling for about a minute and still i Park
i picked up my new 02 SiG yesterday and when i started the car, the RPM only went up to 750ish while the car is in Park(yeah, this one is automatic too cause again, i didn't pay for the car)....
is this difference in RPM normal?
both of my coupes had a date of July 2002 on that door sticker so they were made in the same month...
hi, guys, I have the exact problem with my civic, mine happens more when the engine is still cold and happens less when engine has been running for like 20-30 minutes already. Its good to know that I am not the only one who has this prob on their 2k1, so how did you guys fix it?
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Hope this helps...I had the same problem with my 2K1 Si (US EX). The car would totally croak when I slowed down..This is really cool when you're turning through an intersection and the engine shuts down taking the power steering with it..Yikes!
Anyhow...here is how the story materializes...
I was ripping down an on-ramp when my VTECH and ECU started battling it out over oil...The oil in the pan shifted so much that the ECU didn't recognize enough to let the VTECH run so it kept shutting it off...It was brutal. Anyway, went in to get the oil changed so as to stop that problem and they asked me if I had ever heard a noise under the hood...I said "umm...No"..They said that that the AC Compressor was going (bearings) and that they removed the belt so it wouldn't catch fire before they could get the new parts....So I'm like..okay that 's cool..I booked another appointment.
The next day I'm driving home on the highway from work in rushhour traffic and the car cuts off 7 times and now the noise is worse than fingernails on a blackboard!!!
I get home to find the damn thing smoking under the hood. In case I need to say this.....The belt was never removed!
So, I bitched and I bitched and I got a 2004 Accord coupe as a rental for three days while mine was in waiting for the parts. Finally got the work done and now we arrive to today....
The car has never cut out but the idle does still drop to about 300 and then pick up but I find it's only after breaking...mostly harder breaking.
Changing the AC Compressor definately stopped the engine from dying but the low idle is still happening from time to time.
Anyway, having said all this I should point out that the dealership I go to (and bought the car from) are very accomadating (aside from the belt issue). They gave me a great car to drive while mine was in and despite all my mods they assume the position of 'Well it wasn't like that when we saw it'...I love those guys.
I find that a dealership with a big supply of aftermarket goodies is usually your best bet..
Cheers All!
Anyhow...here is how the story materializes...
I was ripping down an on-ramp when my VTECH and ECU started battling it out over oil...The oil in the pan shifted so much that the ECU didn't recognize enough to let the VTECH run so it kept shutting it off...It was brutal. Anyway, went in to get the oil changed so as to stop that problem and they asked me if I had ever heard a noise under the hood...I said "umm...No"..They said that that the AC Compressor was going (bearings) and that they removed the belt so it wouldn't catch fire before they could get the new parts....So I'm like..okay that 's cool..I booked another appointment.
The next day I'm driving home on the highway from work in rushhour traffic and the car cuts off 7 times and now the noise is worse than fingernails on a blackboard!!!
I get home to find the damn thing smoking under the hood. In case I need to say this.....The belt was never removed!
So, I bitched and I bitched and I got a 2004 Accord coupe as a rental for three days while mine was in waiting for the parts. Finally got the work done and now we arrive to today....
The car has never cut out but the idle does still drop to about 300 and then pick up but I find it's only after breaking...mostly harder breaking.
Changing the AC Compressor definately stopped the engine from dying but the low idle is still happening from time to time.
Anyway, having said all this I should point out that the dealership I go to (and bought the car from) are very accomadating (aside from the belt issue). They gave me a great car to drive while mine was in and despite all my mods they assume the position of 'Well it wasn't like that when we saw it'...I love those guys.
I find that a dealership with a big supply of aftermarket goodies is usually your best bet..
Cheers All!
Can anyone tel me exactly where the IAC is located. I am experiencing the same problems. my idle drops all the time though. i've been to shops and honda and no one can pinpoint the problem. and it doesn't show up on the diagnostics. I replaced the throttle body. is the IAC on the throttle body?
Check this thread http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...5&pagenumber=1
... and maybe PM the author Pharah about your IAC question
... and maybe PM the author Pharah about your IAC question
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Originally posted by mykel115
I think what happen there is everytime you press the brake pedal The alternetor add up a load on your engine thats why it make the idling more lower. That also apply to power steering and Aircon any mechanism that add load to the engine make the idle low. I mean when your Idle valve having problem controlling your Idle you must have it check. the dealer mentioning about booster at work that everytime a load add up to your engine it automatic higher the idling speed. It show me how it works. He let me open my Aircon Ok I see the Idling going up. he show me when i turn my steering wheel thats Power steering add up load to an engine I saw it higher the Idle of engine. Then when you press the brake ok it also add up load to alternator Brake light remember.
I think what happen there is everytime you press the brake pedal The alternetor add up a load on your engine thats why it make the idling more lower. That also apply to power steering and Aircon any mechanism that add load to the engine make the idle low. I mean when your Idle valve having problem controlling your Idle you must have it check. the dealer mentioning about booster at work that everytime a load add up to your engine it automatic higher the idling speed. It show me how it works. He let me open my Aircon Ok I see the Idling going up. he show me when i turn my steering wheel thats Power steering add up load to an engine I saw it higher the Idle of engine. Then when you press the brake ok it also add up load to alternator Brake light remember.
such as, when you turn your powersteering, the engine should sound louder (if you have sri or cai)
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Originally Posted by Gardener
Elsewhere on this site I found reference to the Service Bulletin 02-083 "2001-02 Civic: Stalls Intermittently After a Stop". Any comments about whether this fixes the problem?
Gardener
Gardener
fixing this problem requires the PCM to be updated. And please lets not bring back dead threads. start a new one, I dont mind.
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