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shops are scarce around here and i don't feel like throwing money away so other people can say everythings fine.

 
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Ugh... Sorry to hear. See your other thread, I don't want to type it twice.

Hang in there, Buddy.

 
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that sucks. I would honestly just find a heated garage (or storage unit) to work in and stat it myself. Sorry to hear it blew agian. I would try and get a copper gasket or something, I bet Summit Racing carries them.

 
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i should be able to get all the parts for around $500 and diy. its gonna be cold outside. i don't know anyone with a garage and I need to be at home in case I need stuff.

 
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Good luck

 
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thanx would you recommend any useful tools?

 
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No, I generally just make sure I have the Helm's, a good torque wrench, and a hardware store close by that you know the hours of. I would read through the Helm and make sure you have all the parts that need to be replaced.

Feeler gauages maybe to make sure the valves are set properly when your done.

You should be able to get by with just leaving the cams and all in the heads, I think the Helm says to take them out, but I wouldn't, it would just be more a of a pain. But that's just me

But really you're just taking the heads off, so there is no need for like a cherry picker or anything. I've only done that on a B16 and Chevy 350, and they where both just pretty much bolts and stuff. You'll need a set of deep well sockets probably.

 
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Actually, and this comes from experience... (ugh) Make sure you have a GOOD socket for the head bolts. I cannot believe how many sears sockets I snapped in half on the star bolts on my old accord. One snap-on socket later, all was good. You already have a tourqe wrench, so you just need a feeler gauge to set the valves.

 
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okay depending on the head i get, i may or may not need to swap the cam.

 
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so are you swapping the head or just replacing the gasket?

 
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yeah, I bought a bunch of impact sockets.

 
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I think he has to swap it. The head was milled beyond it's limit, so it warps and or leaks. Too much pressure.

 
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djmota you're next haha. DH will claim more victims. yea the head is coming straight off and into the garbage. when i saw 210psi on the gauge my jaw dropped. and the engine had cooled off about 20 mins already due to me getting a nut stuck in the plug hole.

 
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I'm just trying to figure out HOW you got a nut stuck in a plug hole....


OOOOOhhhhhhh...... Never mind.

 
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haha yea i turned the tube to tighten it loosely! and the stupid thing wouldn't come back off. i guess the nut was on the tube too loose. i ended up tryin to turn it slowly with a socket until finally could stick one with tape around it and pull it out. i was scared for a few minutes there.

 
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So, DID you score another head? You DON'T need to remove the cam gear if you replace the cam/sprocket as one piece. What's wrong with some people???? You put a socket on the crank pulley and slowly turn the engine to TDC. Make sure the marks all line up. There is one on the flywheel, and on the Cam sprocket. Then loosen the tensioner and slip the belt off. Do all the head work, cam, etc. Then put the belt back on once you rotated the cam back to it's TDC mark. Re-tighten the tensioner as per manual. Check that all marks line up. If they do, turn the engine with a socket on the crank TWO full revolutions, back to TDC. Yes, TWO revolutions. The crank turns once for every half turn of the cam. Re-check your alignments. If you are off by one tooth, just re-do the tensioner/belt. No biggie. If everything is spot on, recheck that you have proper belt tension and button it up. It is then safe to start the motor. It really is easier than it sounds once you do it. And keep your nuts out of the engine.

 
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no head yet thanks for the info.

 
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Yeah I know, but if you are just changing the headgasket (and not haveing the heads checked) you don't even need to take touch the cam other than to set it to TDC. You can leave the cam in the head, that's all. Now if you get a new set of heads, then obviously you'll have to play with cams. I think the Helm (I don't have one for 7thegn) tells you to take the cam and all it's parts out before removing the head, I've changed hg's before without removing the cam, you just have to be careful when pulling the head off you don't hit the valves on the cylinder walls. That's all I was talking about...

But since he changing the head, it really doesn't matter.

 
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yes it will be much easier to do again once the stock head is back on. it looks like i will be getting a stock head with camshaft and gear. so I'll just swap the gear and put everything back as is.

 
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FYI: Everytime you pull a head off an engine, you SHOULD have it checked. It's good sense since a gasket generally blows because of warpage. I'd take it as a given to always have a head checked if it comes off.
Gearbox, do yourself a BIG favor and have your replacement head checked for plane, etc, before you put all that work in.

 
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Yeah, I know you should have it checked. But that's basically $100 to a machine shop, not everybody has that money setting around I personally have mine checked, but my to-be father in law is a machinest and does it for me for free. But I have friends that just can't afford it, so what you do?

And yeah, gearbox, you should have it checked before putting it on.

 
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i'll just get a feeler gauge to check my block and maybe the head. the head i'm getting is from a working motor (the guy is getting a k20 swap next week).

 
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If you loosen the head bolts in the wrong sequence you can warp the head. So that's why it's prudent to check it. Besides, why do this work again because you decided to skimp on that? At the very least, check for plane. Or you'll be replacing gaskets again soon.


And the Gearbox saga continues. In theaters near you, starting in december

 
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yea i'm gonna tell the guy how to take off the head from the motor. this is gonna be continued next year. i'm going home in a few weeks anyway.

 
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Actually I think that specific car ran for anouther 15,000 miles before the tranny failed, then it went to the junk yard

I wonder how much that movie is going to make in the first weekend?

 
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things will change, they are only gonna get better but with lots of time. in another year, i should have the turbo on and everything working better than ever

oh btw i fixed the idle problem by tightening the head bolts. its never misfired for a week now but still uses coolant and has bubbles. but it should hold me over til next year when i swap the head.

 
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what's the ideal idle speed for our 7thgens?

would an aftermarket tach give an accurate reading also? or at least what's the margin of error to be expected?

thanks

 
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about 700 rpms. give or take 50rpms for air density and temperature. obviously that is when the oil is warm enough.

 
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correct, my ninja friend. best way to get an accurate readout is some kind of data logger, rev-speed meter/vafc/etc or other device that reads from the rpm signal wire.

 
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No, most aftermarket tach's monitor the electrical current, some of the better ones (read $400+) measure the ignition timing and are pretty accurate. You can also just get a data logger, but then you are at high costs agian, at least for a decent one.