2K1Civic17"Gabe

iTrader: (9)

What the hell could it be?

I reaplaced my hg, vacuum hoses, some coolant hoses, IM gasket, TB gasket is in perfect shape, all sensors are hooked up, what the hell?

Right when I start my car it idles around 1500, than drops to 1200, and idles at 10-1400 flutcuating.

I do have the throttle body coolant bypass done. But that only seemed to mess with my idle after driving, than coming to a stop. never when just turning the car on.

I do not have an exhaust on my car right now (due to getting back to stock from turbo).

Any tips on what to check would be great, I AM throwing a code, but dont want to drive to get it checked, nor do I want to buy an obd scanner.

I dont have access to internet at home, so please just respond tot his thread, or send me a PM. I will be back to check hopefully today, or this weekend.

Thanks for any help!

Peace

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

Well the first thing you want to do is diagnosis the check engine light. Anytime you are having problems with your car and have a check engine light, alot of times that is the cause of other problems. I dont know why you replaced all those things, but didnt check the trouble code. Once you fix that, I bet the problem will go away.

Jrfish007

iTrader: (3)

1. relearn the idle curves for the car
how to do it: http://www.7thgencivic.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=221592

2. the coolant bypass gave gearbox idle problems and it has been determined to absolutly nothing for your car. Put it back. I personally believe it is screwwing with the thermocouple in the intake system, but haven't really looked close enough to figure it out for sure.

3. lack of exhuast system can do it to, but I haven't seen that as a problem on OBDII cars. What part is still on car, I'm assuming you still have a header right?

It could be a combo of all these things adding up to make one problem too.

MajinB

iTrader: (21)

funny idle reasons
1. wheather probs. too hot needs more air
2. cold motor. give it 5 minutes to warm before you drive
3. exhaust would be the big one. i call my guess on this one.
4. just got unboosted? how long has it been? it could be that too.

2K1Civic17"Gabe

iTrader: (9)

was only boosted for about 3-4000 miles. Not driven too hard most the time.

I borrowed an obd reader last night from my friend. Ive been trying to get it for a few days now.

the problem is and I forget the code:

Mass air/BARO too high of voltage.

So basically, Im thinking I need to check.

Wiring I cut off (like a chop shop, lol) from my MAP box, could be touching something it shouldnt, although I made sure they were well protected.

MAP sensor itself.

or possibly a fried ECU, which I shouldnt have. I had a MAP box hooked up the entire time to mask boost.

I also shot out the IAT sensor really hard against the side of the engine bay under 9psi of boost. It was a loud pop of it coming out, and my idle sucked immediately after. I also heard some detonating though after 8psi.


Any more ideas? Im at work for a little while today, so Ill check back later.

Thanks a lot guys!!

2K1Civic17"Gabe

iTrader: (9)

oh, and I forget the exact code, but its basically like that. You get the idea.

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

Well a bad map sensor can cause driveabilty problems. I have seen several cars that would barely run, or start and die and the cause was a bad map or MAF sensor.

Its possible the problem is directly related to whatever you did with the wiring to the MAP sensor, as you stated above. If you want later I can run through the diagnosis of the code with you, but it may give you a false diagnosis if you have wires cut and what not. I would start there with the wiring, I doubt its a fried ECU. More then likely the car wouldnt run if you fried the ECU.

Also if you have a wiring diagram for the MAP sensor, make sure everything is hooked up correctly.

2K1Civic17"Gabe

iTrader: (9)

yeah, Ill check the MAP sensor and wiring when I get home. All other electronics work fine in the car, and there is only a CEL on. Possibly a oil light, too?? I forget. I think the oil light goes off though when the car is on.

How much do new MAP sensors go for if they are bad? Would a bad 02 sensor cause those probs? I figure the code would have to do with primary/secondary o2s if so. I figured mine may be fouled out. I was running rich and they have a good amount of use on them. But the code sounds nothing like that.

I just want my car running damnit. I cant borrow the jeep anymore, my girl started a new job today. Now I have to bum rides from whoever I can.

But at least I finished real estate school today, so Ill be making bank soon for a much much much much nicer car.

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

A new MAP sensor is $37 from majestic honda, $49 from honda. Find out the exact code if you can sense there are several codes that deal with the MAP sensor/BARO sensor. Now if you had a faulty o2 sensor, you would know, you would have a check engine light on for the o2 sensor. But the first thing to get your car running good is to find out what is causing the check engine light. As everyone else suggested, those are good things to check, but a check engine light on can be the reason your idle is fluctuating. Always remember one faulty component can be the cause of several other malfunctioning components. Thats why I suggest you diagnosis that first, and if the cause is still there afterwards, start checking other things.

Now if you find out the code, I can guide you through on what to check. You may still have a good sensor, but a wiring problem. Never know untill you check. You dont want to spend $40 on a sensor that you dont need.

2K1Civic17"Gabe

iTrader: (9)

yeah for sure. Im gonna be checkin my wiring in an hour or so when I get a ride home. I wouldnt buy the sensor without checking the wiring and some other parts first.

Ill get that code back on. I cleared it yesterday, but Ill start the car and see how it runs, and if the code comes back. If so, I will right it down and respond back hopefully in about 5 hours.

Thanks a lot
Peace

PunkingCivic

iTrader: (3)

Is the filter clean. I've the seen the idle raise and fall again and again due to a dirty filter.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

put the damn bybass back the way it was!! sheesh.

pon55

iTrader: (19)

O2 sensor or wireing!

2K1Civic17"Gabe

iTrader: (9)

bypass is back, code was checked. MAP wiring was messed up due to my dumbass.

Fixed it all, was running nice for 1 minute. It heated up to normal temp, and I threw a code.

I either (Hopefully) have a vacuum leak, blown spacer for the IAC, or a bad IAC sensor. Im replacing the spacer first to see if I backfired in my IM (which I did many times) and blew it. I dont seem to have any bad hoses, since most are replaced, and checked if not replaced. everything is hooked up as well.

The code is idle control system malfunction, so Ill fix it. the IAC is an expensive *** part though.

streetglower

iTrader: (13)

well what exactly is the new code that popped up? Dont replace something that you dont need to replace. Like I said before, diagnosis the new check engine light before you replace anything else. Anytime a car runs rough, stalls, whatever and you have a check engine light, fix that first. Most of the time a check engine light issue is why the vehicle runs poorly.

If you tell me the code, I can help you diagnosis it.

Now if it is code P0505, you can start by holding the engine at 3000 rpm with no load in park or neutral untill radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. then check the idle speed with no load on. should be between 700 +or- 50. or 720 +or- 50 rpm. If it is, you have a intermittent failure. If it isnt, if it is less then 650, disconnect the IAC connecter and see if the idle speed fluctuates or increases, if it does, check it under a load. if it is out of specs, replace the IAC. Now if the idle speed doesnt change when you remove the IAC connecter, replace the IAC.

Now if the RPM is over 750 or higher, turn the ignition switch off and remove the air cleaner. start the engine and let it idle. then put your fingers on the lower port in the throttle body. Does the engine speed drop? If no, check for vacuum leaks at the PCV valve, evap canister purge valve, intake manifold, throttle body, brake booster. If it does fluctuate, check under a different load, AC on, in gear If its out of spec, replace the IAC valve.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

so find a cheap tb from ebay and swap it out?

aznboysrfr

iTrader: (10)

all Honda engines are notorious for having very sensitive IACV's (search: idle problem - honda-tech.com)... if you 'popped' yours off, chances are that it's finished.