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Another jerk issue [solved]

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Old May 5, 2022
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Another jerk issue [solved]

My 2014 Civic EX Coupe has been jerking during acceleration and sometimes stalls when I'm in reverse then shift to drive. I replaced the trans fluid and spark plugs to no avail. Thus, I'm thinking the Mass Airflow Sensor, Throttle Positioning Sensor, Fuel Injectors and hopefully not, the Fuel Pump. The check engine light or alert indicator screen is not displaying anything. How do I check all of the listed possibilities?

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Old May 6, 2022
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re: Another jerk issue [solved]

Even though it's not throwing a CEL code a good starting point would be to check it with a code reader/scanner. Parts stores will check it for you if you don't have one.

Power Balance Test. (ETCG): https://www.ericthecarguy.com/power-balance-testing-2/
I would recommend doing it in the following way he listed:
"There are other ways to disable the ignition for each cylinder. Say you have a coil pack assembly that is easily accessible. You can remove each of the leads going to the coil packs and place a small piece of vacuum line in between the coil and the spark plug lead. Use just enough vacuum line to leave a 1/4-inch gap between the coil tower and ignition lead. Do this for each cylinder and start the engine. Then take a grounded test light and touch each vacuum line one by one. This shorts out the cylinders one by one and is a safer (and sometimes easier) method of disabling the ignition to each of the cylinders.

You don’t have to disable the ignition to do a power balance test. If it’s too difficult to get to or you’re afraid of dealing with the ignition circuit, you can instead disable the fuel injectors one by one with the same result. You can simply unplug each injector one at a time and check for the same RPM drop as you did, disabling the ignition. You get virtually the same information. I often find the injectors hard to get to, so I usually go for the ignition before I look to the injectors. That might not be the case on your vehicle, and disabling the injectors might be a simpler option. Here is a video on power balance testing that will help illustrate how to perform the test and the results you’re looking for."

If you test (separately) the coils and injectors as stated above it will rule out (or mostly rule out) spark and fuel issues. If the engine has good fuel and spark quality then suspect a vacuum leak, timing issue , clogged catalytic converter, or sensors as you mentioned. Test first as much as possible before throwing parts at it.

Last edited by Wankenstein; May 6, 2022 at 11:06 PM.
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Old Jun 2, 2022
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re: Another jerk issue [solved]

Originally Posted by Wankenstein
Even though it's not throwing a CEL code a good starting point would be to check it with a code reader/scanner. Parts stores will check it for you if you don't have one.

Power Balance Test. (ETCG): https://www.ericthecarguy.com/power-balance-testing-2/
I would recommend doing it in the following way he listed:
"There are other ways to disable the ignition for each cylinder. Say you have a coil pack assembly that is easily accessible. You can remove each of the leads going to the coil packs and place a small piece of vacuum line in between the coil and the spark plug lead. Use just enough vacuum line to leave a 1/4-inch gap between the coil tower and ignition lead. Do this for each cylinder and start the engine. Then take a grounded test light and touch each vacuum line one by one. This shorts out the cylinders one by one and is a safer (and sometimes easier) method of disabling the ignition to each of the cylinders.

You don’t have to disable the ignition to do a power balance test. If it’s too difficult to get to or you’re afraid of dealing with the ignition circuit, you can instead disable the fuel injectors one by one with the same result. You can simply unplug each injector one at a time and check for the same RPM drop as you did, disabling the ignition. You get virtually the same information. I often find the injectors hard to get to, so I usually go for the ignition before I look to the injectors. That might not be the case on your vehicle, and disabling the injectors might be a simpler option. Here is a video on power balance testing that will help illustrate how to perform the test and the results you’re looking for."

If you test (separately) the coils and injectors as stated above it will rule out (or mostly rule out) spark and fuel issues. If the engine has good fuel and spark quality then suspect a vacuum leak, timing issue , clogged catalytic converter, or sensors as you mentioned. Test first as much as possible before throwing parts at it.
Just got around to doing the PBT and it passed. Therefore, I'll process the elimination of the other possibilities. Im going to rule out the Cat Converter because it doesn't jerk when I switch to manual/Paddle shifter drive. A cat would be problematic across the board. One other note, when in idle, it is unable to rev pass 4000 RPMs. I press the gas all the way and it fluctuates at 4000 and won't go beyond. Though, that could be normal to avoid engine damage, but IDK.
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Old Jun 3, 2022
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re: Another jerk issue [solved]

Originally Posted by Meanie
Just got around to doing the PBT and it passed. Therefore, I'll process the elimination of the other possibilities. Im going to rule out the Cat Converter because it doesn't jerk when I switch to manual/Paddle shifter drive. A cat would be problematic across the board. One other note, when in idle, it is unable to rev pass 4000 RPMs. I press the gas all the way and it fluctuates at 4000 and won't go beyond. Though, that could be normal to avoid engine damage, but IDK.
You mean sitting with the car in neutral/park? That's normal
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Old Jun 3, 2022
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re: Another jerk issue [solved]

Originally Posted by Colin42
You mean sitting with the car in neutral/park? That's normal
Good to know. Thank you.

I also did a scan and received a P0171 code which is system too lean bank 1. It lists all the possible causes so I can troubleshoot and eliminate or try.
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Old Jun 3, 2022
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re: Another jerk issue [solved]

Try cleaning all the intake sensors, check the intake tube for cracks. If that's all good replace the primary o2 sensor. ONLY use the oe brand which should be Denso or ntk
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Old Jun 4, 2022
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re: Another jerk issue [solved]

Originally Posted by Colin42
Try cleaning all the intake sensors, check the intake tube for cracks. If that's all good replace the primary o2 sensor. ONLY use the oe brand which should be Denso or ntk
Taking a closer look just a few minutes ago, I noticed a huge split/opening in the inner section of the accordion intake tube and a dirty air filter. Thus, I'll replace those, clean the sensor and see what happens.
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Old Jun 4, 2022
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re: Another jerk issue [solved]

There you go
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Old Jun 5, 2022
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re: Another jerk issue [solved]

Originally Posted by Meanie
Taking a closer look just a few minutes ago, I noticed a huge split/opening in the inner section of the accordion intake tube and a dirty air filter. Thus, I'll replace those, clean the sensor and see what happens.
The hose has two major slits. One was on the opposite side I didn't see. I replaced that and the filter and cleaned the sensor. Plan to run some errands in a few and will see what partakes.

Thanks for the help. I'll post back after the errands.
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Old Jun 5, 2022
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re: Another jerk issue [solved]

Originally Posted by Meanie
The hose has two major slits. One was on the opposite side I didn't see. I replaced that and the filter and cleaned the sensor. Plan to run some errands in a few and will see what partakes.

Thanks for the help. I'll post back after the errands.
She's back. No hesitation, no jerking, smooth acceleration....She takes off like a bat out of hell. I'm elated. I didn't think leaks would cause such a problem.

Thank you guys for the help. Now I have to resolve one more issue which is happening.
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Old Jun 5, 2022
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Re: Another jerk issue [solved]

Because the car has a maf sensor it doesn't detect the extra air coming in from the cracks in the hose. If it had a map sensor like the older civics it would've ran fine
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Old Jun 5, 2022
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Re: Another jerk issue [solved]

Originally Posted by Colin42
Because the car has a maf sensor it doesn't detect the extra air coming in from the cracks in the hose. If it had a map sensor like the older civics it would've ran fine
Makes sense.
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