Another jerk issue [solved]
Another jerk issue [solved]
My 2014 Civic EX Coupe has been jerking during acceleration and sometimes stalls when I'm in reverse then shift to drive. I replaced the trans fluid and spark plugs to no avail. Thus, I'm thinking the Mass Airflow Sensor, Throttle Positioning Sensor, Fuel Injectors and hopefully not, the Fuel Pump. The check engine light or alert indicator screen is not displaying anything. How do I check all of the listed possibilities?
Thank you
Thank you
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re: Another jerk issue [solved]
Even though it's not throwing a CEL code a good starting point would be to check it with a code reader/scanner. Parts stores will check it for you if you don't have one.
Power Balance Test. (ETCG): https://www.ericthecarguy.com/power-balance-testing-2/
I would recommend doing it in the following way he listed:
"There are other ways to disable the ignition for each cylinder. Say you have a coil pack assembly that is easily accessible. You can remove each of the leads going to the coil packs and place a small piece of vacuum line in between the coil and the spark plug lead. Use just enough vacuum line to leave a 1/4-inch gap between the coil tower and ignition lead. Do this for each cylinder and start the engine. Then take a grounded test light and touch each vacuum line one by one. This shorts out the cylinders one by one and is a safer (and sometimes easier) method of disabling the ignition to each of the cylinders.
You don’t have to disable the ignition to do a power balance test. If it’s too difficult to get to or you’re afraid of dealing with the ignition circuit, you can instead disable the fuel injectors one by one with the same result. You can simply unplug each injector one at a time and check for the same RPM drop as you did, disabling the ignition. You get virtually the same information. I often find the injectors hard to get to, so I usually go for the ignition before I look to the injectors. That might not be the case on your vehicle, and disabling the injectors might be a simpler option. Here is a video on power balance testing that will help illustrate how to perform the test and the results you’re looking for."
If you test (separately) the coils and injectors as stated above it will rule out (or mostly rule out) spark and fuel issues. If the engine has good fuel and spark quality then suspect a vacuum leak, timing issue , clogged catalytic converter, or sensors as you mentioned. Test first as much as possible before throwing parts at it.
Power Balance Test. (ETCG): https://www.ericthecarguy.com/power-balance-testing-2/
I would recommend doing it in the following way he listed:
"There are other ways to disable the ignition for each cylinder. Say you have a coil pack assembly that is easily accessible. You can remove each of the leads going to the coil packs and place a small piece of vacuum line in between the coil and the spark plug lead. Use just enough vacuum line to leave a 1/4-inch gap between the coil tower and ignition lead. Do this for each cylinder and start the engine. Then take a grounded test light and touch each vacuum line one by one. This shorts out the cylinders one by one and is a safer (and sometimes easier) method of disabling the ignition to each of the cylinders.
You don’t have to disable the ignition to do a power balance test. If it’s too difficult to get to or you’re afraid of dealing with the ignition circuit, you can instead disable the fuel injectors one by one with the same result. You can simply unplug each injector one at a time and check for the same RPM drop as you did, disabling the ignition. You get virtually the same information. I often find the injectors hard to get to, so I usually go for the ignition before I look to the injectors. That might not be the case on your vehicle, and disabling the injectors might be a simpler option. Here is a video on power balance testing that will help illustrate how to perform the test and the results you’re looking for."
If you test (separately) the coils and injectors as stated above it will rule out (or mostly rule out) spark and fuel issues. If the engine has good fuel and spark quality then suspect a vacuum leak, timing issue , clogged catalytic converter, or sensors as you mentioned. Test first as much as possible before throwing parts at it.
Last edited by Wankenstein; May 6, 2022 at 11:06 PM.
re: Another jerk issue [solved]
Even though it's not throwing a CEL code a good starting point would be to check it with a code reader/scanner. Parts stores will check it for you if you don't have one.
Power Balance Test. (ETCG): https://www.ericthecarguy.com/power-balance-testing-2/
I would recommend doing it in the following way he listed:
"There are other ways to disable the ignition for each cylinder. Say you have a coil pack assembly that is easily accessible. You can remove each of the leads going to the coil packs and place a small piece of vacuum line in between the coil and the spark plug lead. Use just enough vacuum line to leave a 1/4-inch gap between the coil tower and ignition lead. Do this for each cylinder and start the engine. Then take a grounded test light and touch each vacuum line one by one. This shorts out the cylinders one by one and is a safer (and sometimes easier) method of disabling the ignition to each of the cylinders.
You don’t have to disable the ignition to do a power balance test. If it’s too difficult to get to or you’re afraid of dealing with the ignition circuit, you can instead disable the fuel injectors one by one with the same result. You can simply unplug each injector one at a time and check for the same RPM drop as you did, disabling the ignition. You get virtually the same information. I often find the injectors hard to get to, so I usually go for the ignition before I look to the injectors. That might not be the case on your vehicle, and disabling the injectors might be a simpler option. Here is a video on power balance testing that will help illustrate how to perform the test and the results you’re looking for."
If you test (separately) the coils and injectors as stated above it will rule out (or mostly rule out) spark and fuel issues. If the engine has good fuel and spark quality then suspect a vacuum leak, timing issue , clogged catalytic converter, or sensors as you mentioned. Test first as much as possible before throwing parts at it.
Power Balance Test. (ETCG): https://www.ericthecarguy.com/power-balance-testing-2/
I would recommend doing it in the following way he listed:
"There are other ways to disable the ignition for each cylinder. Say you have a coil pack assembly that is easily accessible. You can remove each of the leads going to the coil packs and place a small piece of vacuum line in between the coil and the spark plug lead. Use just enough vacuum line to leave a 1/4-inch gap between the coil tower and ignition lead. Do this for each cylinder and start the engine. Then take a grounded test light and touch each vacuum line one by one. This shorts out the cylinders one by one and is a safer (and sometimes easier) method of disabling the ignition to each of the cylinders.
You don’t have to disable the ignition to do a power balance test. If it’s too difficult to get to or you’re afraid of dealing with the ignition circuit, you can instead disable the fuel injectors one by one with the same result. You can simply unplug each injector one at a time and check for the same RPM drop as you did, disabling the ignition. You get virtually the same information. I often find the injectors hard to get to, so I usually go for the ignition before I look to the injectors. That might not be the case on your vehicle, and disabling the injectors might be a simpler option. Here is a video on power balance testing that will help illustrate how to perform the test and the results you’re looking for."
If you test (separately) the coils and injectors as stated above it will rule out (or mostly rule out) spark and fuel issues. If the engine has good fuel and spark quality then suspect a vacuum leak, timing issue , clogged catalytic converter, or sensors as you mentioned. Test first as much as possible before throwing parts at it.
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re: Another jerk issue [solved]
Just got around to doing the PBT and it passed. Therefore, I'll process the elimination of the other possibilities. Im going to rule out the Cat Converter because it doesn't jerk when I switch to manual/Paddle shifter drive. A cat would be problematic across the board. One other note, when in idle, it is unable to rev pass 4000 RPMs. I press the gas all the way and it fluctuates at 4000 and won't go beyond. Though, that could be normal to avoid engine damage, but IDK.
re: Another jerk issue [solved]
"Marge, anyone could miss Canada! All tucked away down there."
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re: Another jerk issue [solved]
Try cleaning all the intake sensors, check the intake tube for cracks. If that's all good replace the primary o2 sensor. ONLY use the oe brand which should be Denso or ntk
re: Another jerk issue [solved]
Taking a closer look just a few minutes ago, I noticed a huge split/opening in the inner section of the accordion intake tube and a dirty air filter. Thus, I'll replace those, clean the sensor and see what happens.
re: Another jerk issue [solved]
Thanks for the help. I'll post back after the errands.
re: Another jerk issue [solved]
Thank you guys for the help. Now I have to resolve one more issue which is happening.
"Marge, anyone could miss Canada! All tucked away down there."
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From: Barrie, ON Canada
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Re: Another jerk issue [solved]
Because the car has a maf sensor it doesn't detect the extra air coming in from the cracks in the hose. If it had a map sensor like the older civics it would've ran fine
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