Reverb2005

Hi All,

My first post for my 2012, love my car, Honda builds great vehicles (from my perspective ). They don't, however, build ones to take an impact from a chunk of concrete traveling at 100+ km/h (see pics), though I'm sure someone has modded one to .

Anyway, 2012 Civic Coupe EX @ 185,000 km. I am changing the condenser and rad.
- I know my '05 had a separate dryer for the refrigerant, does the 2012 as well? Someone said it is attached to the condenser?
- Any DIY articles about recharging a completely empty system? (I couldn't find any in the DIY section?)
- Anything else I should buy other than the actual damaged components? (I'd like to keep it low budget, my rad hoses and other items seem to be in good shape)
- Anything else I should know? Links are welcome, I don't mind reading.

Thanks all.

Colin42

ouch, that's a big chunk for a little car
if you don't have a set of manifold gauges and a vacuum pump just have a shop recharge the system.
not sure if the drier is separate, try checking parts websites

ezone

Dozer blade, plow blade, skidsteer blade or bucket....cow catcher. Check ecomodder forums, the cow catcher might be a little more aerodynamic


Drier-----is a replaceable tube attached to one end of the condenser. New condenser from Honda comes with a new one, but IDK about aftermarket.


During component replacement some PAG oil must be replenished, the FSM has a chart that tells how much to add when various components are replaced.
I would also calculate (wildass guess) how much oil would have likely been lost as a result of the puncture and subsequent rapid release of freon and oil, and add that as well.

Replace the O ring on every fitting you touch

Professional evacuate and charge by weight (though use of aftermarket condenser could cause ideal charge weight to differ from stock)

Reverb2005

Thanks ezone, I may drain the ac compressor (wait - this is possible right?, do I have to remove the compressor to do so?) and say that, eh, 1/3 of what was in the evaporator was lost too? Is that wild enough? Then just add what should be in a dry compressor + condenser + 1/3 of what was lost in the evaporator. It would be nice if I could just drain the evaporator too, is that possible?

So, luckily, in my line of work I have access to a 3/4 HP rotary-vane pump, that should get er down to a good hard vacuum, I have gauges too. I'll just need the right fittings to go on the ac connections. I'll have a look at the recharge kit and see if I can use the fittings from that.

Oh and one more, possibly day-ruining point. So, when I turn the AC system on right now, the compressor does not turn on, the clutch does not engage - is this expected from an evacuated system? Is the pump also controlled by the pressures monitored on the system (of course it is, but this case is a little different than normal operating procedures).

Thanks again, really appreciate it!

ezone

Short answer is no.
See fsm

A very low or empty ac system cannot operate, and don't even think about jacking with the pressure sensor to fool it. It could cost you a PCM in addition to the damage you already have.

Reverb2005

Ok, I spent the $10 to buy a day's worth of the FSM, completely worth the price. I saved a whole bunch of topics that I may encounter in the future and learned a whole bunch of other interesting things too. I now see what I'm up against.

I'm in Canada and R134a is not available to the general public and, of course, has been replaced with R12a. I've read up on R12a (and what it is comprised of), lot's of mixed reviews about it, I'm interested in trying it out since it will allow me to work on the system myself. I suppose if it doesn't work out, I'm out the cost of the kit and the cost of putting R134a in it (plus any busted components , it's ok, I understand there are even unforeseen consequences.)

Maybe someone knows - what is the fitting that the refill kits use on the can-connector portion? It's some female fitting (I pretty much only use Swagelok tube fittings and some NPT fittings at work) that I can't quantify at this point. I want to hook up my vacuum pump at this end, the gauge on the refill kit also goes to -30 in Hg, plus I'll add another gauge, just to be sure. Any info here would be great!

Thanks again ezone, et al.

EDIT - More specifically, the "Red Tek" refill kits.

ezone

Not sure how the laws are in Canada but I would assume it's very similar to US plus somewhat stricter regs.



Every unique refrigerant is required to use system service fittings unique to that refrigerant and only that refrigerant. This is to prevent cross contamination of not only the AC system in the car but the service equipment too. (a conversion kit probably comes with some adapters that install permanently on or over your original service port connections)


What will be the correct charge amount for this wrong refrigerant? How can you determine this? It's not likely to be the exact same spec amount (weight) as R134.....and just a couple ounces over or under ideal spec can really hinder system efficiency.

If you install this r12a stuff in your system and you end up taking it to a pro who has to check what is actually in your system, if it is not the refrigerant that's supposed to be in it (first clue will be the fittings that don't match standard R134a fittings) you may be SOL as they aren't going to be able to connect a proper R134 machine to the car.

At work if we find someone has installed AC stop leak (even with the correct refrigerant) we won't touch it. We have AC machines worth more than some of the cars and don't want to ruin them with sealants.