Rep Power: 0

Okay, so, here's the rundown.

I've owned 2 civics in my life. one an 02 and one and 03. I've never done anything to either aside from oil changes. I have a mechanical background but I've seldom worked on imports. My partner has my original 03 civic now and a couple weeks ago sent a rod through the block. So, with judgment out the window, I decided it needed the D17A2 block instead of the A1 it has.

I've never done this and I'm starting to worry about it. so I'm leaving my comfort with you.

2003 Honda Civic, automatic, d17 A1 block.
I plan on keeping it auto, she cant drive manual well and doesn't really seem in a hurry to learn.
I bought a D17A2 block from a junkyard with 36k on it, pulled from a running car they still used to carry tools around the yard.
doesnt leak oil and the oil and coolant looked beautiful, sounded great. - $800
Bought a D17A2 wiring harness off of eBay for $250
also bought a computer with key and cylinder from an auto VTEC car. this was almost $400 but the closest honda dealer is 3+ hours from my house and it was cheeper then towing the car out there to have it done.
aside from this were also installing heavy duty cv axles, heavy brakes and slotted rotors, all new nickel brake line, new tie rods inner and outer, new brake line manifold ect. the whole front will be new pretty much. "I live in the rust belt and this car has survived here its whole life and somehow has no rust on it and I would like it to stay that way) so everything is going to be coated.

So what's the likelyness of me pulling this off. its to late to stop, already have the motor out, just put the trans on the new motor and I'm waiting for the new motor mounts in the mail so I can slap it in there. I would attach an image but my new computer only has USB c ports for some reason.

 
Rep Power: 366

camshaft or crankshaft position sensor tends to fail when such a job is done (after so many years plugged there, no wonder).
They must be OEM (Denso or NTK)
Usually it is hard to make then start after the job, just retrack, see if nothing left unplugged.
Timing also could be slightly off. recheck. If refuses to start, remove camshaft position sensor, if runs, slap in new sensor

 
Rep Power: 223

Worst case, just run the D17a2 with the D17a1 ECU. It won't have VTEC but should work fine.

 
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I did replace the crank sensor. And all the brake lines behind the block. Pretty much everything that’s hard to change after the motor is. Minus the water pump.

If the D17a2 computer doesn’t work right I am just going to run the old computer. Untill I can get a Kpro. This car is a daily driver but also a project car. It’s supposed to be “respectfully modded” or whatever. Paid $300 for it 7 years ago. It was totaled. Fortunately the only “frame” damage is to the fender support and head light support on the driver side. I’d like to fix it one day but it’s so far down on the list.

Haven’t gotten it running yet. Finally got the last few parts I needed in the mail. So hopefully in the next few days.
I have limited time to work on it in a day because work, kids, and I’m doing it in my driveway and my neighbors don’t like how loud I am all night.

 
Rep Power: 0

 
Rep Power: 223

The new viewing port in the side of the block is pretty neat!

 
Rep Power: 366

yeouch!
Wait, do you have the D17A2 head? Don't see it listed in your first post.
without it, the ECU will throw a code for VTEC and put in limp mode.