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I just installed a new lower ball joint and ripped the boot while pressing it into steering knuckle. Are you supposed to take the boot off before pressing it to prevent damaging it? Because I watched quite a few videos and didn't notice anyone removing it first. And the circlip doesn't go on over the boot, right? Btw, do oem ball joints come with a boot retainer clip because I bought a duralast which doesn't include one.

 
Rep Power: 224

I have never removed the ball joint boot before pressing into the knuckle. I have always used Moog parts which may be designed a little different.

 
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Yeah, I pinched the boot on the receiving cup while pressing it in and should've been more careful. Good news is autozone told me to bring back the ball joint with torn boot for a free replacement! Went to harbor freight and bought ball joint separator tool.

 
Rep Power: 367

that's to separate the ball joint from the control arm

 
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Yes, if I had it to begin with maybe I wouldn't have torn the boot and replace ball joint.

Btw, the ball joint that was on car had no circlip so I assumed whoever replaced it last forgot to install it. But then I went to autozone today and their duralast didn't have a circlip in box. So thinking that must be a mistake I asked the girl to get another box and it didn't have it either. The duralast I bought last night did include the circlip and although I'm 100% sure all 3 of the boxes have the same part # the box sizes were different and the ones I looked at today also didn't have eye holes for a cotter pin and no castle nut, just a regular one. So I don't know what to think except that I either got an old stock last night or perhaps a newer stock where it's made by a different manufacturer. Going to try another autozone tomorrow. Anyhow, do some ball joints not use a circlip?

 
Rep Power: 367

the ones without would be force pressed (balljoint is bigger than the hole) but replacement ones would usually have the retaining ring. Not having a cotter pin would have a plastic ring in the nut to retain it.

 
Rep Power: 224

I also have that ball joint separator, hasn't let me down yet.

 
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Today got the refund on the ball joint I ruined. I then went to Advance auto and bought a Driveworks one and it wasn't until getting back home that I realized it's greaseable which I originally didn't want but decided to keep it. It has a snap ring and I pounded it into the knuckle and then greased it up. The question is are you supposed to leave the grease fitting on? Because I removed it and plugged hole with a piece of rubber. Also forgot to look if there's clearance on our cars between the axle and ball joint to even leave it on. Btw how often are you supposed to grease ball joints? Once a year or two?

 
Rep Power: 99

There is a member here that made a thread showing pictures of the new Moog ball joint installed. He kept the 90 degree grease fitting installed and it fit fine with no clearance issues.

I used the same ball joint but re-installed the plug before putting everything back together. I think I could've kept the grease fitting in and still had plenty of clearance. There may even be enough space to remove the plug and re-install the 90 degree fitting without removing the cv axle. It's not a lot of space, but possibly just enough.

Also, I did not remove the ball joint boot before pressing it into the knuckle. I do not recall the original ball joint having a snap ring, but the Moog joint came with one.

 
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Ok just ordered a Moog greaseable ball joint for other side and going to leave grease fitting installed when it's in the car. Also ordered Moog control arm for driver side after replacing 1 bad bushing on passenger side control arm. I should've just bought 2 new CA's but too late for that now. Anyhow I'm hoping having 1 Moog and 1 stock original isn't going to be a problem. New arm should be identical to factory, right?

 
Rep Power: 367

no issues

 
Rep Power: 367

now, if you got a Jeep part instead of a civic part, it could get interesting one side lifted the other normal

 
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Just replaced the other side with a moog greaseable ball joint and yep there's enough room to leave the grease fitting on. The harbor freight ball joint separator didn't open wide enough to be of any use removing old ball joint.

 
Rep Power: 99

The Maddox ball joint kit or the cheaper one (Pittsburgh I think)? The Maddox kit looked pretty good. I used a kit I purchased on eBay, which appears to be identical to the Maddox. It opened wide enough and I put a hell of a lot of force on it to pop out the old joint. In fact, the ball actually pushed right through the top part of the joint...I had to push out the rest of the housing separately.

Or are you referring to the tool that separates the ball joint stud from the control arm?

 
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The ball joint stud from the control arm.

 
Rep Power: 99

Hmmm, okay. I'm surprised it didn't open far enough. I take it you just beat the LCA with a hammer until it popped out?

 
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I was replacing ball joint and control arm so I pulled the steering knuckle out with ball joint attached and then pounded it out with a hammer. Btw, if I had been planning on reusing old ball joint can you pound on threaded side with sledge as hard as you want as long as there's a nut on end to protect from mushrooming? Because I really had to whack that thing with a sledge to get it out lol.

 
Rep Power: 224

My separator has a removable pin and two pivot points. Did you have it set to the one allowing it to open further? Slide the 'Y' part on top of the control arm when the ball joint is, ball joint stud sitting in the 'Y'. The curved finger part is then lined up on the bottom of the ball joint stud.

 
Rep Power: 367

I have other cars, so i just left the tool in there and tightened it once or twice a day, until i heard a loud bang and it was off - can't remember how many days it took to separate, 2 to 5?

 
Rep Power: 99

I'd say for the most part, YES. However, you may end up damaging the nut enough to not be re-usable.
In addition to pounding on the end of the stud (with nut on it), also beat on what the stud fits into. In this case, that would be the end of the LCA.
Also, a good amount of rust penetrant (PB Blaster) and as much time as possible will help.

 
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Do you have this harbor freight separator?

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qu...tor-99849.html

 
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Ok just checked mine and it does indeed have 2 pivot points allowing it to open further. I was getting ready to return it but now definitely keeping it for future work. Thanks!

 
Rep Power: 224

Sounds like you've got it figured out now. Yes, I have the exact same separator. Only issue I've ever had is on Accords the 'Y' part is too small and won't fit around the ball joint stud. You can still make it work but it's a little sketchy.