Rep Power: 0

I recently took my wife's car in for repairs at the local shop for brake service (which we knew was needed), and walked out with a $1800+ estimate for several suspension and drivetrain related issues. It has about 60k miles on it. The local shop has great reviews and came recommended by a neighbor as well, so I don't have any reason to doubt their diagnosis, but I was surprised by the need for a large round of major repairs in a car with so few miles that's known for low cost of ownership, so I also took it to a couple other shops to see if they would find the same things.

The local shop:

• Replace front brake pads and rotors - $433.24 (already done)
  
• Replace left side Halfshaft Assemly - $278.40
  
• Replace both front struts cartridges and front mounts - $955.24
  
• Alignment, four wheel, following strut replacement - $98.00
  

*They explained that some part of the CV joint has broken, allowing dirt in which has compromised the whole assembly. About the struts, they said that they observed the cartridges to be leaking oil and the strut mounts to be compromised.

Midas:

• Confirmed the need for halfshaft assembly replacement, but claimed not to see signs of leakage on the struts when I asked them to check them, but I'm not sure if I trusted their diligence in examining.
  

Honda Dealership:

• Also confirmed the halfshaft assembly and CV joint issue, (referring to it as the "Left Side Axel").
  
• Made no mention of need to replace the strut mounts or cartridges, but found that the front lower Control Arm Bushings were cracked and needed to be replaced.
  

So I'm confused as to why the first two shops missed the cracked Control Arm Bushings, despite having been looking over the same part of the suspension--especially the first shop who had taken things apart to look in detail and diagnose the struts and mounts. I'm also confused as to why the Honda dealership didn't catch the need to replace the struts and mounts if they were already looking at the Control Arm Bushing.

TL/DR:

I'm hoping to get the opinions of you car-literate folks in determining the best read of the situation as far as what repairs are necessary, how to triage them, and how to bring the cost down if possible (maybe ordering my own parts and just having the mechanic do the labor?)

Is it prudent to go ahead and arrange for all three major repairs (front left halfshaft assemly, struts cartridges and mounts, control arm bushings) to be made as soon as possible? Does it look like maybe any of the diagnoses might have been exaggerated or unnecessary?

Relating to the struts, I have done the old "test" of pushing down on the front bumper to gauge it's reaction, and it comes right back up and levels out strongly without any continued rocking or instability. We also haven't noticed any appreciable lack of shock absorption while driving.

 
Rep Power: 368

433 for rotors and pads?!? is it in Dollars? Can't see which country you are.
if US dollars, rip-off.

Took me a few days to remove the screw holding the rotors, but should not cost that much in a shop.

 
Rep Power: 368

control arm bushings - can you lift car and check if cracked or torn apart?
if just cracked, some will not account for it.

note: a new arm is considerably cheap - no need to get from honda (200 bucks/ea), rock auto carries then for 33-53 bucks/ea
Keep old ones on shelf and change bushings at your own leisure to slap them in when the new arms bushings crack.

The only pain will be to remove the ball joint, the other parts are not so bad - some pain in the antiroll bar if they strip threads.

 
Rep Power: 368

shocks (struts) - they might not be leaking, but stock usually gets out of life around 30/50k miles.
They are probably saying top mounts because they plan on getting the whole assembly (no need to separate the springs/mounts from the strut (quick change or similar).

naturally, be careful when prices are:

• too high
• too low

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...assembly,15174

compare with honda:
https://www.bkhondaparts.com/v-2003-...shock-absorber

 
Rep Power: 368

find an bumpy road, drive slightly faster and check if unstable. If unstable, time for change

now, if you do the half shaft, you will need to remove most things other than the top mounts, so it could be easier now. I would say 955 would be the strut/half shaft work as a whole...

 
Rep Power: 368

I did all of them myself, but i do have spare cars and a garage, so some of them were the patient type - can't remove something? leave it there.