Ok I knew it was a risky idea with the eBay coilover sleeves so please don’t mention that part. My problem is after all was said and done on the install I had a bad tie rod end but decided to rig it up to work for a nights to get me home. Things went south and the wheel started to death wobble, at first it was mainly on deceleration but then progressed to doing it constantly. Limped it a few more miles then a wheel stud snapped from the wheel constantly wobbling, after the stud snapped I stopped and had it towed home. The next day I replaced the tie rod end, all four studs on my driver side, and replaced the lower ball joint since it was also no good anymore. Now after all those parts were replaced I drove it a few miles (ride quality is terrible as expected from a $20 investment) but my wheel still ended up wobbling and once I finally limped it home again I noticed all four lugs had come loose and they had been torqued to spec before the final test drive. The only thing that remains damaged to my eye is my wheel where the studs wallowed out the holes so now there oval instead of round. Does anybody have any ideas on what could be causing it to still wobble? The passenger side is still all stock components and hasn’t given any issues yet.

Only got my set of 17x9s and was a little worried about swapping a good wheel to the front just in case it was the wheel I didn’t wanna damage anything else. When we changed my studs the guy that set them didn’t knock them all the way into place but I took my spare wheel and tightened down on the lugs as hard as I can to maybe finish pulling g the studs out into place. @Riceboy I didn’t think to check the hole where the tie rod end goes but when we were replacing the tie rod end I didn’t notice any damage or wallowing on it. I checked for play in the tie rod end but it’s also tight.

So I glanced at it this morning before I left for work and the hole in the strut for the tie rod end looks fine, no fresh shiny metal, no wallowing. But Riceboy I see you said it’s tapered? Could you possibly show a pic describing this taper?

I didn’t mention the studs on first post because overall they were installed properly, only one was not in all the way, once it was noticed we did all we could without taking the knuckle off again. I’m feeling positive on the studs. The lower ball joint was installed properly with a new c clip. I do have aftermarket lugs and I’ve considered the fact that they could be stripped out.

Included is a pic of the wheel that took the damage

Ok so I got home put on the spare tire on and drove it around a couple blocks, made sure to accelerate hard some to put a little stress in the wheel and the roads are already bumpy around here so the suspension got a little test too. I didn’t feel any wobble at all. When I got home a checked all lugs to make sure they were tight and none were loose. The spot where the tie rod goes through looks good and so does the top of the strut mount. I’m starting to feel like I can come to the conclusion that it’s the one wheel causing the problem.. at least from what I’ve come across so far

Well unfortunately it’s time to retire the 17s then. Kinda a blessing and a curse with these things. Get all kinds of comments but they always rub lol. Really appreciate the feedback and help guys! And back @Riceboy i understand what you’re talking about now, when we remove it I didn’t even notice that it was tapered, just to be 1000% sure it’s not the tie rod end again I’ll pop it out this afternoon and put it back in making sure it sits properly in that hole. Just for safe measure, don’t need my wheel almost falling off...for the third time.

Every bolt from top strut mounts all the way to the lowest point of the knuckle has been checked. Strut bolts are tight, brakes are tight, every nut and bolt has been gone over to make sure.