No brakes after bleeding them?
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No brakes after bleeding them?
Recently my brakes were feeling spongey and non-responsive (almost like no braking power at all). I changed the driver side rotor and pads. So I read online that it is time for a brake fluid bleed. Looked up how that was done and began the process. I topped off the brake fluid reservoir with new brake fluid. The brake fluid remaining in there was black. So then with the driver side wheel off I loosened the brake bleeder valve and put a clear plastic tube on it and attached that to a water bottle with an air hole. Then I began pumping the brakes, lots of black fluid came out and I saw bubbles in the hose. After that it seemed the brake fluid was clear and no bubbles, I removed the hose tighten the brake bleeder screw and proceeded to the passenger side. Did the same thing, and kept topping off the brake fluid each time. Then did the driver side rear, then the passenger side rear. Started the car up and brakes seemed a little more responsive but still barely braking enough to stop. A problem I had when bleeding the other was that they were a different size valve, so when I pumped the brake the clear plastic tubing didn't completely fit snug on the nut, so it seemed like air was getting it because when I had someone press on the brakes it was just none stop bubbles throughout. Then when that didn't work, I removed each tire and removed the bleeder valve screw completely. And let each one drain out over night to get all the trapped air out. Then this morning I put on all the bleeder valve screwed and then tires. Start it up and no brakes at all, absolutely none. How can I fix this? why are their absolutely no brakes now?
Thank you
Thank you
Last edited by Civ_; Jun 16, 2018 at 02:48 PM.
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Re: No brakes after bleeding them?
When you opened, removed , loosened the bleeder screws and walked away, the brake fluid in your master cylinder was replaced by air as well as which ever three wheels were higher elevation got a lot of air in them and the lowest wheel still had enough air in it to be very spongy.
Sorry, but your lack of understanding on how it’s supposed to work means the only recommendation I can give it to have your car towed to your local shop or call in a mobile mechanic.
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This is why DIY and brakes are not always a good combo.
When you opened, removed , loosened the bleeder screws and walked away, the brake fluid in your master cylinder was replaced by air as well as which ever three wheels were higher elevation got a lot of air in them and the lowest wheel still had enough air in it to be very spongy.
Sorry, but your lack of understanding on how it’s supposed to work means the only recommendation I can give it to have your car towed to your local shop or call in a mobile mechanic.
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Dr Krieger of Modification
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You said "...I removed the hose tighten the brake bleeder screw...", this was probably the first mistake.
You never want air to touch the bleeder while it is open. You should have left a wrench on the bleeder, with the hose attached, opened the bleeder, pumped the brakes until the line is clear/bubble free, closed the bleeder, removed the hose, test to make sure bleeder is not leaking.
Try it again and make sure to use a smaller hose for the rear.
Good luck.
You never want air to touch the bleeder while it is open. You should have left a wrench on the bleeder, with the hose attached, opened the bleeder, pumped the brakes until the line is clear/bubble free, closed the bleeder, removed the hose, test to make sure bleeder is not leaking.
Try it again and make sure to use a smaller hose for the rear.
Good luck.
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