transmission removal
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Hi everybody. I'm going to be replacing the transmission in my dads manual 2001 civic lx. I've already got the transmission and all the parts, the only thing I want to double check before I do this is how to remove the transmission. In the DIY on this site it just shows him setting it aside in the engine bay, but not fully removing it.
Can you remove the transmission through the top? or is it better to go through the bottom?
and another slightly less important question. I read 10w30 motor oil is recommended for the transmission. Is it better to use a synthetic oil, or is something else recommended?
Thanks in advance!
Can you remove the transmission through the top? or is it better to go through the bottom?
and another slightly less important question. I read 10w30 motor oil is recommended for the transmission. Is it better to use a synthetic oil, or is something else recommended?
Thanks in advance!
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i believe it comes out the bottom. i would just stick to the honda stuff altho alot of people use different oils too.
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Speedfoos has taken his out the top before. I believe the thermostat housing must come off if you choose to do it that way. If it comes out the top there is no need to remove sub frame or get an alignment.
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so if you do it through the bottom you have to remove the subframe? How hard is that? Would it be easier to go through the top?
Thanks for the replies so far guys
Thanks for the replies so far guys
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Depends on what kind of shop you have. If you have a hoist, it's probably easier to drop the whole motor out the bottom attached to the subframe. If you've just got a jack and hand tools it's easier to take out the top w/o the subframe.
It's fairly straight-forward to pull it from the top, but there are a couple key things you need to do for it to come out.
To remove it from the top, you need to do the following things. Note that this is in addition to the normal steps to remove the tranny:
1 - Thermostat housing has to come off.
2 - Tranny mount has to be removed from the frame rail.
3 - clutch line bracket has to come off the tranny
4 - Clutch and FW have to come off before you can get the tranny out. It won't clear otherwise.
Other than that, it's simple. I like to leave the front motor mount attached to the block by the one bolt that's not connected to the tranny, and for the rear, just remove the bolts (three of them) that hook up to the tranny and don't pull the mount out.
Give yourself about 8 hours if you've never done this before. Put a little grease on the end of the input shaft of the new tranny as it makes seating it a heckuva lot easier. I hope you have a clutch alignment tool as well.
If you drop the entire subframe (with the motor) out there is a lot more to disconnect. It's up to you and your tool setup really.
It's fairly straight-forward to pull it from the top, but there are a couple key things you need to do for it to come out.
To remove it from the top, you need to do the following things. Note that this is in addition to the normal steps to remove the tranny:
1 - Thermostat housing has to come off.
2 - Tranny mount has to be removed from the frame rail.
3 - clutch line bracket has to come off the tranny
4 - Clutch and FW have to come off before you can get the tranny out. It won't clear otherwise.
Other than that, it's simple. I like to leave the front motor mount attached to the block by the one bolt that's not connected to the tranny, and for the rear, just remove the bolts (three of them) that hook up to the tranny and don't pull the mount out.
Give yourself about 8 hours if you've never done this before. Put a little grease on the end of the input shaft of the new tranny as it makes seating it a heckuva lot easier. I hope you have a clutch alignment tool as well.
If you drop the entire subframe (with the motor) out there is a lot more to disconnect. It's up to you and your tool setup really.
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Thanks for the reply, its going to be really helpful! sounds like I'll go from the top then. I'm going to try to borrow a hoist from someone locally so I dont break my back :P. Otherwise maybe just jack it up with wood to get extra lift and then lift it out once its high enough.
edit: yea the clutch comes with an alignment tool. Thanks again for all the tips!
edit: yea the clutch comes with an alignment tool. Thanks again for all the tips!
Last edited by IRPancake; 03-03-2009 at 11:03 AM.
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You don't need a hoist to take it out of the top, the tranny weighs maybe 45-50 pounds. I've done with one hand before.
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the rebuilt one weighs 78 pounds according to UPS. I'm 19 and scrawny lol, I already tried like I was lifting it out of the engine bay and I couldn't do it. My friend might be able to get a hoist. I'll have him there even if we can't get one, so between the 2 of us we can lift it out
edit: my friend and I figured out how we're going to go about it. I'm going to set it on a jack when I first get it off, then remove the clutch/flywheel so it will clear, and possibly the battery and tray just for extra clearance. Then we'll use straps to pull it out, then when putting the new one in we'll lower it back onto the jack
edit: my friend and I figured out how we're going to go about it. I'm going to set it on a jack when I first get it off, then remove the clutch/flywheel so it will clear, and possibly the battery and tray just for extra clearance. Then we'll use straps to pull it out, then when putting the new one in we'll lower it back onto the jack
Last edited by IRPancake; 03-03-2009 at 03:14 PM.
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just would like to update everybody. Spent about 8-9 hours so far, everything is hooked up besides axles/sensors,etc. New tranny and everything is in and bolted up. We're also replacing the oil pan gasket, so it worked out that removing the oil pan gave us enough clearance to wiggle the tranny out through the bottom. It looks like going through the top would have been a nightmare, so if you're doing this you can just drain the oil and drop the pan (and might as well replace it, its only $19, and you don't have to drop the subframe or anything.
Thanks again for all the help guys, it really made everything go smoother.
just one more question, I haven't put the slave back in yet, but it seems like the rod wiggles around. I pulled back the rubber boot and its like another rod and theres a rubber piece behind that, so its not one solid piece, just wondering if thats normal or what.
Thanks again for all the help guys, it really made everything go smoother.
just one more question, I haven't put the slave back in yet, but it seems like the rod wiggles around. I pulled back the rubber boot and its like another rod and theres a rubber piece behind that, so its not one solid piece, just wondering if thats normal or what.
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Taking the transmission out the bottom is a piece of cake. Anyone can do it even if you are not a mechanic. I have done all the work on my civic and I am not a mechanic. Just go buy the service manual do some reading and your set.
#15
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Hey i have the same car but I don't see how it's possible to remove the transmission from the bottom without dropping the subframe. do you slide it to the left (towards the driver side) and through the subframe from the clearance gained by taking off the oil pan?
#16
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It’s not possible to remove it out of the bottom without “loosening” the subframe.
For driveway simplicity, reattach the drivers side ball joint so the subframe will not drop to the ground on the drivers side.
Then you can drop it and swing it outwards to give yourself easy access.
Indeed only the front subframe bolts need to come out and loosen the rear ones, but it’s still a wrestling match trying to flip the transmission out. The few seconds more required to unbolt the exhaust / subframe is a win / win scenario as it greatly helps also putting it back in.
For driveway simplicity, reattach the drivers side ball joint so the subframe will not drop to the ground on the drivers side.
Then you can drop it and swing it outwards to give yourself easy access.
Indeed only the front subframe bolts need to come out and loosen the rear ones, but it’s still a wrestling match trying to flip the transmission out. The few seconds more required to unbolt the exhaust / subframe is a win / win scenario as it greatly helps also putting it back in.
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