xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

Updating this first post to help people instead of being an inquisitive thread.

My original intention of this thread was to make a DIY guide, but a few hours after starting, I figure you gotta know what you're doing, or be willing to experiment to attempt a HG change. I'm leaving this thread for a parts list and makeshift FAQ to perform this. Makshift FAQ because I'll try and answer questions as they come up, or things I think of.

When I replaced my headgasket, here's the parts I got
06110-PLD-010 Gasket Kit, Which includes the following: (*note: part number for the D17A1 -- dx/lx engine is 06110-PLC-010)****New revelation***
It has come to my attention (thank you BanoOmg) that it's cheaper to add each individual part to your cart as opposed to buying the gasket kit itself. Adding each item to my cart (as of 28Aug2018) yielded a cart total of $134.78, whereas the gasket kit was $233.25. Shipping was a couple bucks cheaper, too. Do so at your own risk, however. I have ordered items from Majestic (and other sites) that had to be "direct-from-Honda" shipped since the respective site I ordered from didn't actively carry the part I ordered.

->Proof of price difference<-

9Sep2018 update:
Individually ordering the parts of the gasket kit (using the parts list above) worked out very well for user BanoOmg. If you can afford to wait a bit (just in case you get multiple shipments/backordered), this is a very, very viable option. Still do so at your own risk </disclaimer>. For those of you that don't wanna risk messing up the parts numbers and/or for those that are impatient, ordering the pre-assembled kit is also still an option.
*******************

The gasket kit came out to $180-something if I choose overnight shipping from South Bay Honda (hondapartscheap.com). I coerced my local dealership to hook me up with their cost to get the gasket because I told them I could have it overnighted for hella cheaper. You may be able to do the same. Just make sure you tell 'em that South Bay Honda (or Majestic Honda) is an authorized parts dealer out of Los Gatos, CA (or Rhode Island) and they may comply with your request. Below is the current pricing from various online retailers.


Now, if you're planning on doing a HG change, and you haven't changed your timing belt, now would be an opportune time to do so. Here are the parts you need (and should get) for that:
User BanoOmg recommens you have some spare injector o-rings on hand when you perform a head gasket change. He (I apologize if you're female, just making as assumption. If you aren't, please disregard) had some of the little "nubs" at the bottom of the injectors come off, leading to a potential loss of the lower (injector plate side) o-rings. There was no reported issues with upper (fuel rail side) o-rings. I'll list the part numbers for both o-rings and injectors below.
A/C and PS belts if you feel like swapping them. You can get those at Autozone. Duralast brand. That's what I'm rocking.. Lol

Special tools you need:
-Honda/Acura Crank Pulley Removal Tool: I don't think I'd be able to break that damn thing loose if I wanted to without it. It took the removal tool holding the crank pulley still, and a 160lb me hopping up and down on a 3 foot breaker bar to break that bolt loose.
-A valve spring compressor (kinda optional), and no, not the little overhead one you can buy for $30 at autozone. That won't work. You need the one that looks like a giant c-clamp, like the one TRIZ has in his instructable video (big thanks to him for that old *** video btw, it came in handy). You'll need this for disassembling you head for say, cleaning and maybe milling. Solvents will prolly destroy the non-metal parts on your head that you don't take off (like the insides of your valve seals).
****I guess you don't necessarily need this tool, per se, but the head gasket kit you presumably ordered comes with 16 new valve seals for you to use, and if you want to use them (which I recommend, since you're gonna have the head off, anyways), you need this tool. Use it or not, your choice.****
-A torque wrench. A 0-150 ft-lb will suffice. If you wanna get proper torque on EVERYTHING, a 20-200 ft-lb will do you good. The crank pulley requires some 180 ft-lbs for proper torque. I just too it to 150 ft-lbs and used a 2 foot breaker bar to get it approximately the rest of the way. If you do work on a car, I'd recommend buying one. It'll be your best friend. Also, I wouldn't completely cheap out on it. I was using my dad's cheapo $20 torque wrench, and the ratcheting mechanism failed, so I went out and bought me a quality Craftsman 150ft-lb microtorque torque wrench. It's only $80 at Sears, a small price to pay when you're dealing with your car.
-Breaker bars. Use 'em. Love 'em. treat them well. Buy them dinner. They're a life saver when you're working with **** like the crank pulley.
-1/2" sockets. You may or may not need them. You can prolly get away with renting them if you don't have any. You need them for most high torque torque wrenches and long breaker bars. I don't know if you could get away with using a 3/8 to 1/2" adapter, but for high torque situations, I wouldn't recommend it. I used 1/2" deep impact sockets, just because the pops had 'em.
-Shop towels like a ****. You'll need 'em.
-Oil and coolant, obviously. You'll need a bottle of coolant, one of the big ones. Actually, ya know, let's make it two. And you need 'em by tonight (RIP Buster, you've been reunited with your super riced out, lime green Eclipse that got all of us to do what we do with our cars). But seriously, When you go to fill 'er up, you'll be working with a (presumably) dry engine. Make sure you bleed your system thoroughly, so make sure you have enough fresh coolant to be able to perform that. For oil, I'm sure you'll be fine with the regular 3.4/3.7 quarts (-a1/-a2, respectively).
-Assembly Lube. Use it liberally.


Tips, Tricks, and my experience
It took me about 2-2.5 days of work to change my head gasket, but she's purring like a freakin kitten. Of course, took a while to start up due to the lack of fuel in the lines. She was also running a bit rough with a CEL when she started up, so I pulled the codes and got this: p1362 (TDC sensor) and p0135 (primary O2 sensor). Immediately thought "FUUUU!!! FORGOT TO PLUG IN SENSORS!"

So, went into the engine bay, and there it was, TDC sensor and upstream O2 sensor unplugged. Plugged 'em in, reset the codes, and now she's running like she's brand new.

Only reason it took me so damn long is because I kept having to backtrack..
The first one I remember was I had the cylinder head on, started to thread in the ARP headstuds (figured I had 'em, might as well install 'em.. haha). Got the last one in, went searching for my 12mm 12-point socket, and saw the 2 dowel pins in my magnetic tray. Had to disassemble the head again, pull it off, install the pins, and continue.

Second, when I was taking off the ARP headstud nuts, I freakin dropped the second nut I removed. It wouldn't have been so bad if it didn't drop into the god forsaken downpipe. I had to remove my neuspeed x-brace and random tech downpipe just for a 12-point 12mm nut..

Third, I had the intake mani on, all the threaded fasteners on, but not torqued, turned around, and saw the damn IM gasket sitting on my parts table.. So I had to take that **** apart again to put that gasket on.

Fourth.. and oh my eff, what a fourth this one was. I was assembling the valve cover, putting the new tube seals on, new rubber bolt grommets, new valve cover grommet. I was looking for something to use to push the old gasket maker **** out of the nozzle, then I realized I left the little pin in the tensioner. I was using a used tensioner (less than 1000 miles), so I didn't have the giant grenade pin a new one comes with, and I had something that worked in those tiny holes. I had the crank pulley TORQUED, all timing belt covers on, driver side motor mount on.. UGH.. had to take off the timing belt covers, remove the crank pulley, remove the driver side motor mount, just to pull out a 2mm-ish object out of the tensioner..

So, here are some tips for you guys attempting a HG change:
1) Work slow and steady. When you rush is when you forget ****, have to back track, ultimately causing you more time in the long run.

2) Keep yourself organized. When you take **** off, keep the nuts and bolts with it so you know where they go. After a while, you'll prolly start to get tired and agitated, but keep **** where you can easily find it. It'll make reassembly easier.

3) Along with parts organization, keep your tools organized. This part caused me the most time loss. I'd put down a socket wrench, extension, socket, wrench, etc., and not remember where the eff I put it. I even had 2 tables set up: one for tools, one for parts, and I even messed that up. Midway through day 2, I was getting fatigued a lot faster, so my tables tended to have both parts and tools on it. Oh well.

4) Make sure you have the right tools (and parts) for your job beforehand. I repeat, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT TOOLS (and parts) FOR YOUR JOB BEFOREHAND. I had a spare cylinder head, so I took it apart so I could clean it. However, the overhead valve compression tool doesn't quite work with Hondas. I spent 3 hours hunting down the giant c-clamp looking valve compression tool, much like the one in TRIZ's DIY valve spring compressor DIY video. Hunting down the crank pulley removal tool was significantly easier though. More on the valve spring compressor tool, I had a hard time removing the exhaust valves, just because the spark plug tubes were in the way. I had to get creative as to how to remove those damn keepers. Oh, and make sure you know where the hell those keepers run off to. I'm so glad I had 2 complete cylinder heads when I was working, because I lost a few of those keepers.

5) Be careful when you work. I was told this in the Navy, but never utilized it, even though I should have SO many times: when using a wrench of sorts, pull on the thing if you possibly can. If you're forced to push, push with an open palm. My hards hurt so god damn much from not listening to this advice. Kinda related, don't (accidentally) punch the cam gear. That F***er has some sharp edges. The back of my thumb hit it hella hard, and I saw blood and oil literally flowing from the laceration. I was so pissed that I punched it, I was just watching the would bleed out. That is, until I realized I was creating a little puddle of blood below my hand.

6) Proper torque is your friend. Let me clarify; PROPER TORQUE IS YOUR FRIEND. That should do it. Furthermore, make sure you replace every nut and bolt you remove. I didn't properly torque some bolts on my intake mani, and some fell out while driving. Luckily, I still had bolts holding the intake manifold on. The bolts that fell out were just the ones on the bottom brackets and the lower/outer manifold bolts. Also, I have a metric **** ton of replacement bolts since I was harvesting parts from a spare engine, so I popped my hood, replaced the (then) missing bolts, took a torque wrench to them, and now Azumi's happy.

7) I can't believe I forgot to add this. This was the BIGGEST eff-up in the history of me working on my car. So much that I was so frustrated and gave in to my dad's suggestion of taking my car to his mechanic. But I digress... So, a couple weeks after working on 'er, a good 2000 miles after completing this arduous task, I was on my way to school. Not 3 miles from my house, the engine died, and wouldn't restart. Tried cranking 'er, but she just made this nasty groan sound. After getting help from a cop and a good Samaritan to push my car off to the side of the road, I investigated while waiting for my dad to come by to take me to school. Couldn't see anything noticeably wrong, then I remembered to use my code reader, only to find she was throwing a P1362, TDC code. I take the rubber cover off the TDC, and realize the electrical connection was NOT perpendicular to the block like it should be. Got it towed home after school, and began to tear into her. Took off the upper timing belt cover and my heart sank. I saw a 1/4" wide strip of timing belt remaining. Did a bit more exploratory surgery, and found that the bolt holding in the TDC sensor came undone, got lodged between the timing belt and the crank pulley, and processed to do a number on 'er.

Needless to say, I got new parts in, went to replace it all, and found out the crank pulley and cam gear were out of time, with the cam gear appearing to be almost a quarter rotation advanced. Now, this hit me after the fact, but the only way that could happen is if the cam gear slipped by 3/4 of the way. I put all new parts in, still wouldn't start up, and gave up. Reluctantly handed it off the pop's mechanic, and the result was 16 bent valves. Now, I could have easily done it all myself, but I was just so fed up with it at that point. I kinda wish I would have, because when I got home and double checked the f***er's work, I had to fix a lot of ****, there was effing oil splashed everywhere (like on the FRONT of the A/C condenser!?!), coolant gd everywhere, and RTV on the rocker assembly, almost as if a mentally disabled monkey with 3 fingers on each hand was doing the work. That, and I thought my dad was gonna be nice and pay for it, but he made me fork over the $1400 for it, and mind you, I have no source of income other than a military disability check which comes in at $243 a month. Oh well, you live, you learn, and you realize why you work on your own ****. Don't let this horror story deter you from doing this procedure, though. Learn from my experience and take precautionary measures. Use thread lock on bolts that you don't wish to come off unless you take a wrench to it.

Honestly, my car was running better after I had finished the procedure than when the "mechanic" did.

_________________________________________________

This procedure isn't for the faint of heart, just because there will be a point where you're starting at more than half of your engine outside of the engine bay. It's not terribly hard, just time consuming. There's also a bunch of things you have to keep track of, so if you can't keep track of a buncha things at once, either learn, or fork over the $$$$ for the job.

[size=&quot;5&quot;]Helpful Links[/size]
The 7thgen headgasket DIY guide, courtesy of BlueEM2
Some great mechanicing basics, courtesy of kinakoes2
Some labeled diagrams, courtesy of josephbow6

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Cool, did you find the head gasket kit that I mentioned? It does come with a few things that you probably won't need to replace but I do think it makes it cheaper. If you are replacing the timing belt as well there are a few other gasket that ***Should*** but don't necesarilly have to be replaced. I'll find them shortly. The head gasket kit is here:

http://www.hondapartscheap.com/south...t=0&quantity=0

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

If you are going to remove your exhaust manifold ( and i know you have an aftermarket ) you may want to replace #14 here, I didn't replace it and had an exhaust leak afterwards:

http://www.hondapartscheap.com/south...LER&vinsrch=no

I ***THINK*** it's #21 because you have to remove the water pipe from the head to remove the head:

http://www.hondapartscheap.com/south...t=0&quantity=0

These two are the most commonly missed "Oh, **** I need to run out and get" parts when doing a head gasket... A lot of people just end up not replacing them and they are okay though.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

If I remember correctly, that kit above includes the following:

here's what I got so far
12251-PLC-004 Head Gasket
12341-PLC-000 Valve Cover Gasket
12342-P2A-005 Spark Plug Tube Seals (x4)
91213-P2F-A01 Camshaft Oil Seal
91214-PLE-003 Crankshaft Oil Seal (is this the right part number?)
18115-PLC-J01 Exhaust Manifold Gasket
17055-PLD-004 Intake Manifold Gasket

Along with valve seals and some other stuff you "Might" not need Don't forget about the crank pulley remover tool!!!

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

Any tips or tricks to get that pesky crank pulley to break loose? I have the removal tool, but the effer doesn't wanna budge.. lol

I went to the dealership and told them that South Bay Honda could have the gasket kit shipped to me FedEx 1-day for $180, and the dude charged me what they get it for. Sure, I paid $190-something after taxes at the dealership, but it's still better than the $230-240 he was supposed to charge me. The dude recognized me from my many other parts runs, and he prolly gave me a Filipino hook up

I think the salesmen at that dealership are starting to recognize me.. haha.. I walked up, and a salesman standing outside was like "more parts, huh?"

Since the spare engine I have presumably has <1000 miles, I'm prolly gonna use that timing belt, water pump, tensioner, etc., assuming they pass my visual inspection. I pulled the valve cover off and that thing was SQUEAKY clean.

Here's my current course of action
1) Order parts - Done!
2) Take head off spare engine (in progress), take it to a machine shop and make sure it's good to go in.. Maybe get frisky and see how much a PnP would be..
3) Come next weekend (hopefully), commandeer garage thursday night, start ripping apart the engine bay Friday morning (and hopefully have happy cylinder head)
4) Remove old head, replace gaskets, install new head, reassemble everything else.
5) Replace oil and coolant
6) Cross fingers
7) Pray
8) Pray some more
9) Start 'er up and bleed coolant system.
10) Profit

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

g'luck, buddy!
so the other D17 will be used for a slow build, i gather.

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

Maybe.. Or spare parts.. Or I'll part it out for monies.. Who knows? haha.. After I finish this current "project" I have on my hands, the spare engine's gonna have an old head and young bottom end (someone say it..)

I think my $1832 tax return might end up missing $370 of it.. hehehehe... That's a project once my car is happy though

edit: I could use that engine to mock up parts on.. Say, if I decide to try and re-turbo it. So far, I've been using that engine to figure out how to take **** apart. Kinda like a practice run.. lol

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

I refuse! 39 y-old here
Thanks, you list kinda helps me when i get back to US and have a nice warmer than outside garage to work on.
At the time, i guess i will be dropping a stage 1 cam and also maybe replacing the AGX with D-spec, who knows? but the civic will get rest time and the miata will be the beater for a while... but guess before that will be the flyin' miata GC coilovers and new brake rotors/pads and ES bushings to the miata... argh!

xRiCeBoYx

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That's half the reason I made a thread. Originally, I just posted a message on Tom's profile.

Kennykid2002

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Scenario:
Josh walks towards dealership
Salesman outside: More parts?
Josh: Nah, just shoppin...
-brief pause-
Salesman (excitedly): For a new car?
Josh: For new parts...

Salesman:

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

aaahahahahahahaha

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Hahaha... Crank pulley bolt was fun to remove. I used a 3' breaker bar and a standard ratchet with an extension pipe wedged up against the ground to get it off. It worked, but the breaker bar was flexing to the max when it finally cracked loose (it took 4 cracks to actually loosen in). Oh yea that being said, if the engine is in the car the jackstand trick does help a lot.

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

Remember, ingenuity

I used a 2x4 as leverage to unseize a bolt.
Use what you got

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

I had the engine on a sort of wooden palette, which was on top of a log. I had my dad attempt to help me take it off the log so I could have my 24" breaker bar held by the ground, then I found a way to do it myself. I then found a hollow metal.. mic stand.. I think it was that fit on the end of my 24" breaker bar perfectly. That made it a 4' breaker bar with the crank pulley removal tool holding the crank pulley still. It took me "bite the curb" style kicking the other 24" breaker bar with a 19mm impact socket to break the damn bolt loose..

Dunno how the hell I'm gonna get that damn thing to the 140ft-lbs or whatever it is.. 14 ft-lbs + an additional 90º

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

sticky this one too

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

True, Josh... edit your first post to have the entire part list and I'll sticky it. Also change the title to Head Gasket + Timing Belt parts list!

If anyone else has anything to throw into the list post it!!! I can't think of anything else... the two things I listed above are the most commonly missed and least necessary for replacement. But it sure does suck if one of them is fried and you only have 1 car and can't run out to the store

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

I was prolly gonna make a hg DIY out of this thread

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Even better I'll just go ahead and sticky it now. Once you turn it into a DIY we can unsticky it and move it to its appropriate section

xRiCeBoYx

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I don't know if I'm gonna be able to do it this weekend.. We're going from a high of 74 today to a chance of snow starting thursday x_X

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Hmm... it's funny you say that because it was snowing when I did mine (cuz im stupid).!

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Hmm... it's funny you say that because it was snowing when I did mine (cuz im stupid).!

xRiCeBoYx

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But I live in the desert. You live in Canadia. WTF is snow doing in the desert? lol

BlueEM2

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HAHAHAHA It knows you have some work to do!

xRiCeBoYx

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Weather lookin good, commandeered a spot in the garage, got my parts.

Azumi's going in for open heart surgery. Wish me luck.

p.s. Here's what the gasket kit came with. I'll put in part numbers later, unless someone wants to come in and edit my post for me.

Head Gasket
Intake Mani Gasket
Exhaust Mani Gasket
Valve Seals (x16)
Spark Plug Tube Seals (x4)
Cam Seal
Rubber grommet-washers for the Valve Cover bolts (x5)
Valve Cover Gasket
Water Passage Gasket

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

good lucky, buddy!
weather here is also above freezing 2 days in a row. there was actually water in the car (not ice or snow )

BlueEM2

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It did come with the water passage gasket eh? LoL I didn't even notice or they forgot to put it in my kit. Good Luck!

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

I'm kinda pressed for time, so I don't think I'm gonna be able to make a DIY guide.. We can leave this as a parts list/change HG thread though.

I figure, if you're attempting a HG change, you kinda gotta know what you're doing in an engine bay.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Yea I agree. It's not for everyone haha... I was going to write up a DIY but I ended up not doing it for the same reason. Time was of the essence.

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

So, it took me about 2-2.5 days of work, but she's purring like a freakin kitten. Of course, too a while to start up due to the lack of fuel in the lines. She was also running a bit rough with a CEL when she started up, so I pulled the codes and got this: p1362 and p0135. Immediately thought "FUUUU!!! FORGOT TO PLUG IN SENSORS!"

So, went into the engine bay, and there it was, TDC sensor and upstream O2 sensor unplugged. Plugged 'em in, reset the codes, and now she's running like she's brand new.

Only reason it took me so damn long is because I kept having to backtrack..
The first one I remember was I had the cylinder head on, started to thread in the ARP headstuds (figured I had 'em, might as well install 'em.. haha). Got the last one in, went searching for my 12mm 12-point socket, and saw the 2 dowel pins in my magnetic tray. Had to disassemble the head again, pull it off, install the pins, and continue.

Second, when I was taking off the ARP headstud nuts, I freakin dropped the second nut I removed. It wouldn't have been so bad if it didn't drop into the god forsaken downpipe. I had to remove my neuspeed x-brace and random tech downpipe just for a 12-point 12mm nut..

Third, I had the intake mani on, all the threaded fasteners on, but not torqued, turned around, and saw the damn IM gasket sitting on my parts table.. So I had to take that **** apart again to put that gasket on.

Fourth.. and oh my eff, what a fourth this one was. I was assembling the valve cover, putting the new tube seals on, new rubber bolt grommets, new valve cover grommet. I was looking for something to use to push the old gasket maker **** out of the nozzle, then I realized I left the little pin in the tensioner. I was using a used tensioner (less than 1000 miles), so I didn't have the giant grenade pin a new one comes with, and I had something that worked in those tiny holes. I had the crank pulley TORQUED, all timing belt covers on, driver side motor mount on.. UGH.. had to take off the timing belt covers, remove the crank pulley, remove the driver side motor mount, just to pull out a 2mm-ish object out of the tensioner..

So, here are some tips for you guys attempting a HG change:
1) Work slow and steady. When you rush is when you forget ****, have to back track, ultimately causing you more time in the long run.

2) Keep yourself organized. When you take **** off, keep the nuts and bolts with it so you know where they go. After a while, you'll prolly start to get tired and agitated, but keep **** where you can easily find it. It'll make reassembly easier.

3) Along with parts organization, keep your tools organized. This part caused me the most time loss. I'd put down a socket wrench, extension, socket, wrench, etc., and not remember where the eff I put it. I even had 2 tables set up: one for tools, one for parts, and I even messed that up. Midway through day 2, I was getting fatigued a lot faster, so my tables tended to have both parts and tools on it. Oh well.

4) Make sure you have the right tools (and parts) for your job beforehand. I repeat, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT TOOLS (and parts) FOR YOUR JOB BEFOREHAND. I had a spare cylinder head, so I took it apart so I could clean it. However, the overhead valve compression tool doesn't quite work with Hondas. I spent 3 hours hunting down the giant c-clamp looking valve compression tool, much like the one in TRIZ's DIY valve spring compressor DIY video. Hunting down the crank pulley removal tool was significantly easier though. More on the valve spring compressor tool, I had a hard time removing the exhaust valves, just because the spark plug tubes were in the way. I had to get creative as to how to remove those damn keepers. Oh, and make sure you know where the hell those keepers run off to. I'm so glad I had 2 complete cylinder heads when I was working, because I lost a few of those keepers.

5) Be careful when you work. I was told this in the Navy, but never utilized it, even though I should have SO many times: when using a wrench of sorts, pull on the thing if you possibly can. If you're forced to push, push with an open palm. My hards hurt so god damn much from not listening to this advice. Kinda related, don't (accidentally) punch the cam gear. That F***er has some sharp edges. The back of my thumb hit it hella hard, and I saw blood and oil literally flowing from the laceration. I was so pissed that I punched it, I was just watching the would bleed out. That is, until I realized I was creating a little puddle of blood below my hand,

That's about it for now. I'll prolly add more as I think about it, or if someone *coughTomcough* wants to chime in.

This procedure isn't for the faint of heart, just because there will be a point where you're starting at more than half of your engine outside of the engine bay. It's not terribly hard, just time consuming. There's also a bunch of things you have to keep track of, so if you can't keep track of a buncha things at once, either learn, or fork over the $$$$ for the job.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Grats man!

Haha I remember doing mine. I pulled the cylinder head off and I sat there for a few minutes staring at the pistons thinking. Hooooly ****, I'm never going to get this thing back together. I put the head back on, intake mani back on then I thought to my self. Oh ****, I forgot to plug in the knock sensor. Let me tell you, that sensor is a royal pain in the *** to plug in after the intake mani is installed. I was halfway underneath trying to 2 finger the bolt that holds it on! Took me about 20 minutes of completly wasted time for 1 stupid bolt!!! Rushing costs time no matter which way you look at it haha.

At the beginning of your post i was like... why the hell did he unplug the O2 sensor but it makes sense when I read you dropped a nut down there!

The most important thing about this job is to make sure the block and head surfaces where they mate are totally, completly clean. The head should be cleaned by a shop. The block is equally as important thought and usually you don't get the block sent out. However, you SHOULDNT clean the block with sandpaper and your fingers because you have to evenly clean it... what a pain in the *** it was. I ended up using like 2000 grit sandpaper on a piece of wood and slowly working my way around, I was so worried about screwing it up ha... 15, 000 miles later still no problems!

I was so worried about starting it too. All I could think of was, what if my idea of TDC isn't what Honda had in mind when they built this thing.


I have to say though, you do feel pretty good about yourself after finishing a job of this size, especially when you do it in your driveway.