Rep Power: 0

Ok so i got a d17a1 head on a d17a2 block I. Trying to figure out why it won't start it's almost acks like it wants to but then it doesn't anymore need help badly please

 
Rep Power: 511

first things first.. Did the car originally come with a D17A1 or A2? And are you using a D17A1 or A2 ECU?

 
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It came with a d17a1 in it and ive hand gone through a few blocks other bs reasons but now I got a d17a2 block but my a1 head on it

 
Rep Power: 0

A1 ecu same as head

 
Rep Power: 511

well, there goes my initial train of thought.

Does it crank forever and not turn over? If so, is the green key light perpetually illuminated on the custer?

 
Rep Power: 0

Lol if I could see it but I got a new cluster cuz my old one broke and for some reason it's not working I have pin digrams that I have to look at for those

 
Rep Power: 0

But yeah it's just spinin no crank iver been trying to find the right crankshaft and camshaft wire pinouts for this year and I cant find them think that was a issue

 
Rep Power: 367

if cluster not working, check engine codes

 
Rep Power: 0

No check engine codes

 
Rep Power: 222

Timing correct?

 
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Re checking everything now

 
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Ok checked out everything and it goes and acks like it wants to start and then won't and then my plugs are flooded in gas

 
Rep Power: 0

Ok yes it's trying to crank and almost does the first time but then after that it's flooded out

 
Rep Power: 222

Pull the plugs, disable the injectors or pump, and then crank it a bunch to clear the cylinders. Check if you have spark. If you do leave the plugs out overnight, and then throw a tablespoon of oil in each cylinder, reinstall the plugs and try to start

 
Rep Power: 0

Ok will try tmro we just got hit with a bunch of rain

 
Rep Power: 0

Okay so I did everything like the last person said and it goes to act like it wants to start and then it that's it and then after that it'll act like it'll start one more time and then you smell nothing but gas

 
Rep Power: 511

I've kinda been stuck on "immobilizer issue" and I still kinda am. The make or break is going to be how the immobilizer acts, since I cant remember if it just cuts spark or if it cuts spark and fuel. All I know for sure, if you have an immobilizer issue, it will crank forever and never turn over

 
Rep Power: 0

immobilizer? What is that ? It's just flooding out after first start

 
Rep Power: 367

immobilizer disables the fuel pump, so if it is flooding, I would check it off.
so timing correct then? Sparking?
possible sensor issue?
use starter fluid?

 
Rep Power: 0

I don't know if this is allowed but here goes my phone number be awesome if you could give me a call dealing with a POS phone so it takes me forever to get anything in but if you can give me a call at the awesome very much appreciated trying to figure this situation out now since my car's been down for about 2 weeks now and can't get to work

 
Rep Power: 367

sorry, you better not have your number floating in the net.
You can:

• get a manual in most car parts store
• download a honda service manual
  • https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ml#post4718143
• find a friend that is better at working on cars.

 
Rep Power: 511

****, I thought it cut spark at the least. I was way off there. You have, at least, a spark issue. If you've cranked it a lot with no engine firing, you may want to pull your plugs and let the entire thing "air out" for a day. If you're smelling gas/plugs are wet, I'd venture a guess that fuel delivery isn't the problem.

Test the spark plugs and coil packs, as well, just to make sure you got spark there. It'll take a second person, but pull the coil pack and the plug, put the plug into the business end of the coil pack, plug in the coil pack, hold the tip close to something metal (exhaust manifold is what I've used in the past), and have someone crank the engine a bit. If you see an arc from the spark plug to the metal thing, coil pack and spark plug tests good. If so, move onto the next plug/coil combo. If you don't see a spark, try another plug (if you already tested one good, swap that one in) and test again. If still no spark, try another coil pack (again, if you tested one good, use that one). If either new combo works, whatever you swapped out is likely one of the points of failure. If you get good results on all 4 plugs and coils, then you're back at square 1. Any and all "failed" components prolly need to be replaced