1190405

Hey guys, helping to get some needed help.

Super long story short, I just purchased a 2001 Civic LX about two days ago. It has a little over 100k miles and in overall very good shape. All stock. Everything looked great during the test drive, seller seemed legit, and I drove it running many errands the day after around town without issue. I felt like after 4 weeks of endless searching and being patient especially in this crazy used car market, I got lucky with this one.

Yesterday, I decided to make a trip to Harbor Freight about 20 miles away and got on the freeway doing 75-80mph. Suddenly, about 15 miles in, the CEL came on and within a few seconds, my car went into limp mode. I managed to pull into a parking lot and had AAA tow my car home.

Once I got home, the car started up fine but the CEL remained but no more limp mode. I drove across the street to an Oriley's Auto to have them read the light. It came back with 3 codes, the first two of which the guy told me were really similar. Codes were:

1. P1361
2: P0118: Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Output.


My car wasn't overheating at all so I am thinking that code was just triggered due to P1361.

P1361 comes back to TDC sensor interrmittent interruption.

To my understanding, it is related to the sensor just behind the timing belt cover. I checked the wire going to it and it seems fine. I had the guy at Oriley's turn off the light for now just to see what woud happen and so far for a couple of miles around my neighborhood it has not returned (but it might on the freeway again?).

Anyway, I am pretty disppointed that this is happening literally right after I bought the car, but I am wondering what is most likely the cause and the fix? Does it not necessarily mean the sensor is bad? Or it is? According to my research it doesn't seem too hard to replace for a moderately mechanically inclined person.

Today, I just tried driving 15 miles on 2 different freeways and highways, going 60-85mph. Zero problems other than the occasional slight RPM shake and dip at stop lights with the AC on which I am being told is somewhat normal with these smaller engines and with the AC on for additional load. Will try to clean the IAC valve soon anyway.

CEL has since still not come back on.



Thank you!

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

if you eventually need to change, use OEM sensors. NTK or denso (aftermarket causes issues)

BrotatoChip

Most likely cause is failed/failing sensor, dirty terminals in the connector/sensor, possibly engine timing is off but I'd expect more noticeable issues.

1190405

Thank you for the response. That is reassuring if it is most likely just the sensor and nothing catastrophic....

Harry Hemi

You will have to look up how to check the sensor with a multimeter so you can see if theres an issue with it, before throwing parts at it. Also check the wiring between the sensor and the ECU, to make sure it isnt damaged or hacked.

BrotatoChip

Well, the last one isn't simple. A bit more in-depth.

1190405

So an OEM Honda sensor seemed hard to source and the dealership told me they could order one at about $150.

Yesterday, I purchased a Napa Echlin Ignition one for about $75 since it seemed like the highest quality one I can get ahold of. Due to scheduling, it looks like I won't be able to tackle this until about a week and a half. I just checked Rockauto and they have an NTK one for about half the price.

I'm guessing I should return the Napa one and go with the NTK one since it should be almost as good if not as good as OEM?

On a side note, I just purchased an OBD2 scanner. Let's say I continue driving my car and keep the scanner handy in case it throws the same code and puts my car in limp mode. Is there anything terribly wrong with using the scanner to just turn off the CEL/limp mode so I can continue driving without being stranded, since the P1361 code only meant a split second signal interruption?

Thanks

Colin42

You're fine resetting the car. Get the ntk one

1190405

Thanks. Got the NTK one ordered.

Meanwhile, it has been about a week since the incident, and so far I've put about 75 miles on the car around town over a couple of days. Plenty of parking and restarts between errands. The light hasn't come back on yet. Car has been driving fine,

While I do plan to get this sensor replaced, I would really like to begin using the car for it's main intended purpose - to drive 30 miles a day to work.

I am wondering if there is any signifiance to the fact that the CEL hasn't returned yet....could it possibly be a fluke?

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

who knows? not even the car knows it yet...
Electrical/electronic issues are very hard...

Colin42

It may have been a random fluke, hard to tell with electronics

1190405

Well I wish I only had positive things to update on, but super long story short, for the last few days it seemed to drive completely fine...took it on a 12 mile freeway trip to Costco no problems, then today I drove it 30 miles to work without issue.

Long story short, about 2/3 the way home just now, the CEL came on again and it did exactly the same thing. Plugged in the scanner and it read the same single code, P1361. I tried to reset it but the CEL would come right back on and now would say P1362 (TDC sensor no signal). It was worse this time because the car would barely idle let alone stay in limp mode.

By the grace of god I was able to keep trying and eventually turn the CEL off to get it to drive normally so I can make it the last 10 miles home. I had to pull off to reset the CEL about 2 more times but eventually got home.

Obviously at this point I am not going to drive the car again until I replace the sensor. I am hoping it is just the sensor and nothing else. The codes alternated between P1361 and P1362.

Aside from changing the actual sensor itself, is there anything I should ask my mechanic to pay particular attention to?


Thanks

1190405

Well I ended up changing the sensor yesterday with an NTK one. I also changed the valve cover gasket with a Felpro one and shoulda gotten the more expensive gasket set with the new spark plug tube seals and etc cause mine looked like they could use replacing.

Drove it on a 10 mile freeway drive yesterday and around town without issues....but we all know that means nothing until it stands the test of some time. Will update if I have any issues.

The old sensor had a part number of J5T23991....it appears to be an OEM sensor so maybe it was the original one...

Colin42

Hopefully that solves it

1190405

Does the TDC sensor have anything to do with start up? I noticed previously that 75% of the time on warm starts the car would crank for a good 2-3 seconds before starting and for the last two days after changing the sensor it has not done that at all...literally starts up within half a second. Hoping that this is indicative to the sensor for sure being bad. I'm really hoping it won't leave me stranded as I try to use it for work again starting tomorrow.

Colin42

It tells the computer where the engine is, definitely needed for startup

1190405

So the mechanic I had help me with the cam sensor swap also tested the wiring near the plug but what he did was expose a bit of bare wire on each of the 3 wires going into the plug and stuck a multimeter from the plug to the exposed part....testing the connector but not the entire harness as I think he was supposed to....and unnecessary break the insulation a bit on each wire that are so close to each other. I am now worried that with vibrations there is a chance the bare wires could touch and cause a short. What's the easiest way to permenantly fix this?

Can I just buy some heatshrink tubing and cut a slit and wrap it around each wire and shrink it down? or should I just use electrical tape?


Thank you

Colin42

Look up liquid electrical tape. Just paste that all over the wires