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So there was no oil in my filter when I take it off this morning after I drained the oil. But I didn’t get any oil pressure failure at anytime since I changed to this engine. What’s the issue here?

 
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The filter can drain back into the engine.....
How long did the car sit with the engine off before you pulled the filter?

 
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it sat overnight and after I drained the oil, it took me about an hour before I take off the filter?

 
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https://www.d-series.org/threads/emp.../#post-5170120

Your question has already been answered

 
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Filter will be empty after about an hour of the engine being off. I use this to my advantage when doing oil changes

 
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I checked the filter this morning and found lots of oil settle at the bottom. Funny! This never happened before. Appreciate the response though.

 
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Is this after you did your oil chsnge?

 
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After I drained the oil, I was having difficulty taking off the filter so it took about an hour before I remove the filter but the car was up on the ramp in my driveway from the night before. I always use Honda filter and never seen this before but I never noticed any issues with the car acting strange anyway. Never got an oil pressure light comes on or anything.

 
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So the old oil filter had oil in it the next morning?
Again this is normal

 
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it shows oil. I hear you but I have never seen anything like this before so I was thinking a lot of stuff

 
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You overthink things. Unless it's making a god-awful noise, just leave it alone.

 
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As others have said, that's normal. My Civic does the same thing. But since 75-90% of engine wear is said to happen on startup in the couple seconds before oil pressure builds, I wonder if wear could be reduced by either getting a 90 degree adapter like this one so the filter sits upright and doesn't drain back after shutdown or mounting the filter remotely at a lower level than the block so it always stays full. That would have the benefit of making the filter easier to access too, it isn't exactly in a convenient place. Since I already installed an oil cooler and an oil pressure gauge, I may eventually give the remote mount filter a try and see if that reduces the delay in building oil pressure on startup. If/when I try this, I will certainly report back with the results.

 
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it will delay the oil even further during startup

 
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I'm not so sure about that. How exactly would it delay oil flow? In stock form, the filter drains back more or less completely after sitting overnight. Then every time the engine is started, the filter must be filled up before the engine will receive any oil supply. The anti drainback valve is supposed to prevent this to some extent, but from my experience it only delays it. It can't be very effective on a horizontal filter anyways since the center hole is open. At best, the anti drainback valve could only keep the filter almost half way full.

If the filter is vertically mounted below the stock location, it will always stay completely full and oil will start flowing out of the filter and to the engine immediately after the filter receives oil instead of having to wait for the filter to fill up first. The only way I could see it further delaying oil delivery is if the remote filter setup is ridiculously restrictive and blocks oil flow, but with a proper setup that isn't a problem. I noticed no delay in building oil pressure with my oil cooler setup since everything is mounted at a lower level than the filter, so nothing drains back and has to be refilled on startup.

In any case, testing would be needed to know for sure. When I eventually get around to trying this, I will be sure to report back with the results.

 
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question - where to place the remote filter? Anywhere lower than current height? Will the remote location drain back (unsure of this)?
If the additional hoses do drainback, would it be more than the oil filter volume?

 
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I would personally mount the remote filter vertically towards the front of the passenger side frame rail since that is where my oil cooler lines are as that would keep complexity and total hose length to a minimum. The hoses do not drain back, I have disconnected them at the oil filter adapter after the car sat overnight and they were still full enough to dribble oil everywhere. The filter wouldn't drain back either since it would be upright and at a lower level than the stock filter port on the block (the only place the oil can go). However, as long as the filter is mounted upright and preferably below the stock oil filter location, there would still be a benefit.

However, let's say a portion of the hoses did drain back due to the way they are installed. Would there still be a benefit? Well the OEM filter has a listed capacity of 0.2 quarts, or 6.4 ounces. That is almost exactly the same capacity as 5 feet of 10AN hose (the most common size used for oil filters/coolers) would hold assuming every drop of oil drained back. So unless you have a total of 5 feet of hoses being completely drained on shutdown (not likely), the total capacity that would need to be refilled on startup would still be less than the OEM setup.

 
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Why bother?
The engines last well over 200k miles without any of that extra bs

 
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Any additional hoses and systems in a fluid flow system will add to loss of pressure, oil is designed to have an adherence to surfaces.
So the additional parts will affect oil pump load (loss of pressure due to friction)

Your engine, your choice. Properly done should not cause catastrophic results, but don't expect increases in oil flow to engine. Expectation is to be similar to lower efficiency.
Don't go above the oil pump capacity (those are designed above the expected load, so should be safe, but)

 
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All true. From my experience adding my oil cooler 2 years ago, it would seem that the oil pressure/flow wasn't affected much. It would seem that the restriction of the filter/cooler/lines is quite minor compared to the restriction created by the engine itself. When fully warmed up (oil at 180-190 degrees) I still get 45-50 PSI @ 2K, 65-70 PSI @ 3K, and up to ~80 PSI at full throttle. Oil pressure should max out at 80 ish PSI since that's where the relief valve is set. Shimming the relief valve spring increases maximum pressure but I chose not to since I don't think more than 80 PSI is necessary.

Oil pumps are positive displacement pumps. This means that in theory the amount of oil the pump will move at a given RPM should not change based on added restriction, only the power required to do so would. But of course if the output of the pump is restricted to the point that the relief valve is opening due to excessive pressure buildup, the flow through the engine will be less since the relief valve relieves pressure by bleeding oil back to the pan.