D17a2 vtec
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D17a2 vtec
Ok so im new to this honda stuff lol i work for ford . so. I have a civic ex that blew the engine. That engine is a vtec. I bought a junk yard d17a2 assume its a non vtec. But i put my vtec solinoid on the engine an old wiring harness everything starts runs but i have low low low bottom end power like a clogged cat. Well there is no exhause period. There are no o2 sensors period at this time. Yes yes i understand no o2 tell the pcm the correct air fuel mixture but. My real question is there something internally different from a d17a2 vtec to a d17a2 non vtec??? Because if YES. An thats the case im not switching engines in this 19yo car iv just found my 14yo a starter dirt 4cyl then
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if it's a D17A2, it'll be a VTEC engine. The D17A1 is the 7thgen non-VTEC engine
people have done head swaps (D17A1 block with D17A2 head) and ran it successfully. Mostly to take advantage of the lower compression ratio in the -A1 variant and maintain the aftermarket support (that was available in the mid-late 2000s) for the -A2 head (e.g. cams, cam gears, etc.) to make for a better boost build without having to buy the more expensive wiseco pistons
Install your O2 sensors and try again.
people have done head swaps (D17A1 block with D17A2 head) and ran it successfully. Mostly to take advantage of the lower compression ratio in the -A1 variant and maintain the aftermarket support (that was available in the mid-late 2000s) for the -A2 head (e.g. cams, cam gears, etc.) to make for a better boost build without having to buy the more expensive wiseco pistons
Install your O2 sensors and try again.
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Chadbrailer (07-14-2021)
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Re: D17a2 vtec
So can i just leave it an unhook the vtec an run my vtec pcm just no vtec? Sure ill have codes an light will be on its mainly a work car instead of my 5.7l 11 miles a gal lol...im going to double check tomorrow an make sure it was infact a A2. Not a A1. Ill post pics tomorrow. I feel stupid at this ask some ford lincoln questions i can help lol
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If you unhook the VTEC solenoid with a VTEC ECU, it'll throw a P1259 code (VTEC System Malfunction), toss you into limp mode, and limit your RPMs to 4000. If you have a manual tranny, it'll still be capable of 80mph, just saying.
Don't worry about potentially stupid questions. It's not your area of expertise, we get it. That's what we're here for
just went over your first post again.. You said there's no exhaust? Like... nothing downstream of the exhaust manifold is connected?
Don't worry about potentially stupid questions. It's not your area of expertise, we get it. That's what we're here for
just went over your first post again.. You said there's no exhaust? Like... nothing downstream of the exhaust manifold is connected?
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You are correct. An you stand correct i did notice the 4k rpms only.. An yes i have no o2s installed due to i was going to get a new exhaust an muffler. So as i see of what i have looked up the head has 3 ports on the back for. Vtec i do not remember seeing them ports when i bolted the solinoid on. Ill take the altel an look for the code you explained. 🤦♂️. If this is infact a A1 engine anyway to get it out of limp mode ? Can i get a A1 pcm an if so does it require key programming or does hondas. BCM or some other modules save the key information. If worse scenario here ill take the head off the old block an see if its useable an try an put it on this IF to be A1 block. I appreciate your help man..
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Chadbrailer (07-15-2021)
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Anyway to bypass vtec to take it out of limp mode? Oh well thats what i get for not taking the time to look at the head for vtec ports 🤦♂️ if i cant bypass. Im taking the head off the old engine to see if its usable. It ran but had rod knock so hope no metal is in the top half.
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that picture is the vin number, not the engine code...
you cannot bypass vtec, you need a VTEC ECU.
I am starting to think you are not exactly sure about what the VTEC solenoid is. Can you post a pic of what you think is the solenoid? The ECU will need the solenoid activated or not activated, you would need both signals and the activation is not set in a RPM range, depends on a variety of factors to turn in or not. You would need to program all of them to "bypass" it and fool the ECU so that it would not go into limp mode.
Are you a carb era guy like me? That does not work on electronics heavy cars.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ation-d17.html
you cannot bypass vtec, you need a VTEC ECU.
I am starting to think you are not exactly sure about what the VTEC solenoid is. Can you post a pic of what you think is the solenoid? The ECU will need the solenoid activated or not activated, you would need both signals and the activation is not set in a RPM range, depends on a variety of factors to turn in or not. You would need to program all of them to "bypass" it and fool the ECU so that it would not go into limp mode.
Are you a carb era guy like me? That does not work on electronics heavy cars.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ation-d17.html
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Chadbrailer (07-15-2021)
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If it had a rod knock, there's metal in the top. You can have a machine shop clean it then slap it on the a1 block and basically have an a2. Compression ratios are close enough to not make a meaningful difference.
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that picture is the vin number, not the engine code...
you cannot bypass vtec, you need a VTEC ECU.
I am starting to think you are not exactly sure about what the VTEC solenoid is. Can you post a pic of what you think is the solenoid? The ECU will need the solenoid activated or not activated, you would need both signals and the activation is not set in a RPM range, depends on a variety of factors to turn in or not. You would need to program all of them to "bypass" it and fool the ECU so that it would not go into limp mode.
Are you a carb era guy like me? That does not work on electronics heavy cars.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ation-d17.html
you cannot bypass vtec, you need a VTEC ECU.
I am starting to think you are not exactly sure about what the VTEC solenoid is. Can you post a pic of what you think is the solenoid? The ECU will need the solenoid activated or not activated, you would need both signals and the activation is not set in a RPM range, depends on a variety of factors to turn in or not. You would need to program all of them to "bypass" it and fool the ECU so that it would not go into limp mode.
Are you a carb era guy like me? That does not work on electronics heavy cars.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ation-d17.html
I looked the vin up on prodemand since its not stamped. On the block
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?!?
your engine have the code scraped out?!? Weird.
do you have the VTEC solenoid in the head? Can you post a picture of it? if someone put a VTEC head in the engine anyway, all is out of the window
your engine have the code scraped out?!? Weird.
do you have the VTEC solenoid in the head? Can you post a picture of it? if someone put a VTEC head in the engine anyway, all is out of the window
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thats where its my fault..... I dident look at the heads. I took the solinoid off an just mounted it on the A1 engine.. Paid 0 attention. If the 3 knowen now.. Holes was on the A1 head.. Nope lol my fault my bad. 🤦♂️. So now we know i screwed up. My A2 head is useable no metal on the top end. So my next question... ANY DIFFERENCE between a A1 block. And. A2 block by switching. My heads out? Idc about higher compression idc about that stuff.
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I thought the same thing man. I used a wire brush to see the d17. An its not there. So i ran the vin on prodemand an. Thats where it shows its a A1. But switching these heads out. Will there be any problems or changes i have to make? Or just go get a. Head gasket belt an prolly a new water pump an run with it??.. Thanks for yalls help..
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A1 engine head does not have oil passages to activate the VTEC. My old LX car with A1 engine is long gone (2005) so only have internet pics to tell if you can even hook the solenoid into the A1 engine (?!?)
A2 engine block have higher compression.
your car already have wiring and ECU for VTEC, just have head checked and drop it in. (Camshaft, valve rocker arms are different)
looks like you can mount it, but no oil passages
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...int-heart.html
A2 engine block have higher compression.
your car already have wiring and ECU for VTEC, just have head checked and drop it in. (Camshaft, valve rocker arms are different)
looks like you can mount it, but no oil passages
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...int-heart.html
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Correct thats where i screwed up lol. A1 no oil ports for the vtec 🤦♂️. So just by me switching the heads out ill be safe with using my A2 head on the A1 block if im reading this correct. The. A2 had rod knock thats why i changed the engine. So if. This A1 block wont work with my A2 head im really screwed lol.
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So you can head swap that A2 head onto the A1 block just fine. Major differences: steel oil pan (ve a2's aluminum) and lower compression ratio (9.5:! vs A2's 9.9:1). Otherwise it'll be the same
So, you have no exhaust. That's gonna be a big contributor to why you have almost zero low end torque. I remember one day I installed a header on my 02 and unknowingly misaligned the downpipe by a half inch. Don't ask. Nevertheless, sounded like a Harley and couldn't get it up my driveway without revving to like 5000
So, you have no exhaust. That's gonna be a big contributor to why you have almost zero low end torque. I remember one day I installed a header on my 02 and unknowingly misaligned the downpipe by a half inch. Don't ask. Nevertheless, sounded like a Harley and couldn't get it up my driveway without revving to like 5000
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So you can head swap that A2 head onto the A1 block just fine. Major differences: steel oil pan (ve a2's aluminum) and lower compression ratio (9.5:! vs A2's 9.9:1). Otherwise it'll be the same
So, you have no exhaust. That's gonna be a big contributor to why you have almost zero low end torque. I remember one day I installed a header on my 02 and unknowingly misaligned the downpipe by a half inch. Don't ask. Nevertheless, sounded like a Harley and couldn't get it up my driveway without revving to like 5000
So, you have no exhaust. That's gonna be a big contributor to why you have almost zero low end torque. I remember one day I installed a header on my 02 and unknowingly misaligned the downpipe by a half inch. Don't ask. Nevertheless, sounded like a Harley and couldn't get it up my driveway without revving to like 5000
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That's exactly it. lol. They're easy to work on, but you gotta learn the little nuances. Lots of information on this forum. If you can't find an answer, post up and we can help you find it
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yep, swap the A2 head (have it checked by a shop before dropping it in)
with the A2 engine head, it should work with current ECU
with the A2 engine head, it should work with current ECU
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Ok yall dumb question lol. What if i took rearend backlash paint an put it on the vtec solinoid to get the spots of the holes. An drilled these 3 holes out lol. Just a idea. It works it works if not oh well the A1 head is pointless to me. But what if them journals are there but just filled in.. Just thinking is all.
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Chadbrailer (07-16-2021)
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Got ya.. Welp head swap it is.... Next question.. Since im a little famailure with this engine.. Anyway to engage vtec full time? Such as running exhaust rockers in reverse or however the k series was doing this.. Yall got me interested now lol
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7th gen D-series uses the VTEC-E, different VTEC systems. It basically changes from 3 valve operation in lower load/RPM to 4 valve operation in higher load/RPM. E stands for economy. No separate lobes with different profiles
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Chadbrailer (07-16-2021)
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